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Old 02-06-2012, 10:40 PM #31
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That looks awesome buddy! I love the way it sounds too! Sounds mean! You got my favorite color too!
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:34 AM #32
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so a little update, this last weekend i went up to my father inlaws shop to pull my rear end appart to see what all the fuss was about... then he hits me with the new that he didnt know where he put my old stock open diff... fml. well i went out to his parts shed with him and i found it sitting on a shelf(he simply over-looked it...), so now i had options. anyhow we pulled things apart and this is what we found...


yeah thats a bolt head MIA...

oh there it is...


and uh yeah there is not supposed to be that much of a gap their, all of the bolts that hold the housing came lose and pulled out...

back to this guy for a couple of months till i can get the new one and time to go back and put it in.

so apparently the bolts either pulled out the threads in the housing or just somehow backed out with the keeps still attached(highly unlikely)
anyhow yeah got my original open 3rd back in and everything ok(just lacking on traction, but its sure nice not to have my new tires being eatin up in parking lots...
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:15 PM #33
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got rid of my dual exhaust hack job from the previous owner... flipped the muffler around and built a Y pipe and then went with 2.5" all the way to just past the rear axle, then went to 3" for the outlet/dump. i like the way it turned out, its all nice and tucked up tight to the bumper so when i put on a replacement bumper i dont think my exhaust will hang down too low. its a little louder now, not sure if thats from flipping the muffler(not sure if your supposed to do that or not -i called a few exhaust shops and they said it souldnt matter as long as their is no flow indication arrow on the muffler itself). anyhow the sound is nice, a little more sound inside, but i liked the quieter sound before, but i can already feel an increase in freeway pickup/acceleration... also my mileage really picked up too. i am now at just past 1/4 tank used, not quite to 1/3, and ive gone over 107 miles... usually i will see about 120-130 at half a tank, so im hoping ill be getting right around 300 to a tank now(finger crossed). like i said its a little louder than it was before and a little louder than i would like(i really liked the sound before) but i will gladly take the louder sound for the increased performance in both power and mileage.

the Rescue Runner build thread-imag1869-jpg

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the Rescue Runner build thread-imag1871-jpg

i didnt snap a pic of the Y pipe(should have i know...) anyhow i will take one later once it stops raining...
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if a*sholes could fly this place would be an airport -2004 GX470 spm -97 SR5 3.4, SCS Stealth 6's w/305 70 17s MTRs, Icon 2.5" RR w/700#coils, OME861s w/Icon tacoma 2.0 RR, ARBs w/nitro 4.88, PIAA LED lights, 170amp CS144, ARB snorkel, ARB bumper w/xd9000ce, CBI swingout loaded, BudBuilt skids, lil skip tank skid, sliders, LCE 231s(d&s), first gen roll bar mod, LED interior/dash lighting, B&M 70624+perma cool w/electric fan, dual electric fanshttp://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:28 PM #34
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Looks clean man!
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:31 PM #35
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Looks clean man!
well thank you, i used a friends shop as they have all the dies and tube benders. it was my first time making an exhaust so im really happy with the outcome. the Y pipe was by far the hardest part, that almost took me an hour to get right.
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:52 PM #36
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That looks super clean man. Especially for your first time.
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:57 PM #37
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You should get vanity tags that say BIG RED, or SRCHRSQ.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:53 PM #38
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You should get vanity tags that say BIG RED, or SRCHRSQ.
how about RSQRUNR?
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if a*sholes could fly this place would be an airport -2004 GX470 spm -97 SR5 3.4, SCS Stealth 6's w/305 70 17s MTRs, Icon 2.5" RR w/700#coils, OME861s w/Icon tacoma 2.0 RR, ARBs w/nitro 4.88, PIAA LED lights, 170amp CS144, ARB snorkel, ARB bumper w/xd9000ce, CBI swingout loaded, BudBuilt skids, lil skip tank skid, sliders, LCE 231s(d&s), first gen roll bar mod, LED interior/dash lighting, B&M 70624+perma cool w/electric fan, dual electric fanshttp://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:23 PM #39
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alright, as i promised some pics of the Y pipe...




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if a*sholes could fly this place would be an airport -2004 GX470 spm -97 SR5 3.4, SCS Stealth 6's w/305 70 17s MTRs, Icon 2.5" RR w/700#coils, OME861s w/Icon tacoma 2.0 RR, ARBs w/nitro 4.88, PIAA LED lights, 170amp CS144, ARB snorkel, ARB bumper w/xd9000ce, CBI swingout loaded, BudBuilt skids, lil skip tank skid, sliders, LCE 231s(d&s), first gen roll bar mod, LED interior/dash lighting, B&M 70624+perma cool w/electric fan, dual electric fanshttp://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:30 PM #40
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I knew it was one of you other members....I copied and got the autometer 'A' pillar gauge pod and trans. temp gauge (in black). Bought some hardware for the install too. Maybe this weekend I'll have it done.
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Wish list: LightForce lights, Firestik antenna, ARB locker(s), and a TRD s/c or KO tuning turbo kit 4psi.


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Old 04-24-2012, 10:15 PM #41
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post up some pics when you get it installed, i wanta see how the black dial looks, i thought about swapping out the dial to the black one as the main gauge cluster is black...
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if a*sholes could fly this place would be an airport -2004 GX470 spm -97 SR5 3.4, SCS Stealth 6's w/305 70 17s MTRs, Icon 2.5" RR w/700#coils, OME861s w/Icon tacoma 2.0 RR, ARBs w/nitro 4.88, PIAA LED lights, 170amp CS144, ARB snorkel, ARB bumper w/xd9000ce, CBI swingout loaded, BudBuilt skids, lil skip tank skid, sliders, LCE 231s(d&s), first gen roll bar mod, LED interior/dash lighting, B&M 70624+perma cool w/electric fan, dual electric fanshttp://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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Old 04-25-2012, 12:13 AM #42
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Quote:
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post up some pics when you get it installed, i wanta see how the black dial looks, i thought about swapping out the dial to the black one as the main gauge cluster is black...
I plan on taking photos throughout the process. I chose the black face part #2640 exactly for the reason you mention. It matches the rest of the dash cluster closer than any other 'Z' series autometer has in their catalog.

Since the gauge kit comes with a green and red 'cot' for the incandescent bulb, I was planning on going with red to indicate red trans. fluid. Good thing the red cover is easily removable in case I decide otherwise.

I'm most concerned about the wiring from the gauge pod (5 wires!) coming down behind the plastic 'A' pillar insert. As the insert attaches to the lower end, I'm hoping I can just fish all the wires down and get them all at the other end behind the left foot kick panel. A type of 'Hail Mary' wire shove maneuver if you can imagine.

Behind the kick panel I have my 4 post terminal block located and my cb is hooked up already to it. I am not connecting the gauge power to an ignition source. I will make it switchable whether the ignition/accessories are on or not via a non-OE SPST switch. I have it all mapped out and have gone over it in my head numerous times to make sure all the connections will be correct. I am not good with electrical schematics. I did the math, too, for the voltages and amps for the gauge. It is listed on the install page/pdf online.

Cross your fingers and I'll have a hefty fire extinguisher with me as I complete the work.

Here it is out of the box and I put the two together.




The aftermarket switch:


The terminal block:

The red 'jumper' wires send power to all four posts.
The single yellow (nestled within the red jumpers) comes directly from the battery via a 30 amp fuse.
The open red connection on the left is now hooked up to my cobra 19 plus cb.
The red fuse holder coming off the right jumper is dedicated for the spst switch for the trans. temp. gauge.
I will have to do more wire work. The red fuse holder will now come after the spst switch, not before it. Then it goes to the gauge.

etc, etc, etc.
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:07 AM #43
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one thing i did with my trans gauge is for the illumination, i tapped into the dimmer switch on the dash, this way it lets me adjust the illumination on the gauge in relation to the dash lights. it worked great! i really like the black face! but i have been looking at the 4957 to swap out my current gauge with, its a full sweep gauge and i like it better, only problem is, it does not come with a black dial/face...
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:31 AM #44
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Sorry to hear that, the kid. It's a shame that you can't find a black faced style you want that's a full sweeper. I suppose i'm not too concerned about it. I looked for something that would be close to the stock cluster in appearance.
I typed 'transmission' on autometers website search bar and found a couple. Here's one. What about the 5451?
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...gid=2724&sid=9


I was wondering about tapping into the rheostat (dimmer dial) instead of the ash tray leads. The rheostat will be closer to my gauge than the ashtray by far. Are the rheostats' wires labeled positive and negative? I really don't want to burn out my bulb before I install it if the wires get switched accidentally. And it sounds relatively easy to do, right?
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:51 PM #45
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Well for one its too large, and two, it does not give a low enough temp reading... I do like the higher temp reading, but I dont really plan on ever needing a guage that goes over 250 so, it's a really not needed
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