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Old 09-27-2012, 09:30 AM #76
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Old 09-28-2012, 07:41 PM #77
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yeup!... infact a couple of months ago this new girl joined, and she got assigned to my team and on our first mission out, she asked me "...so uh do we all go out for drinks after this or what?" i about died laughing, it was great. i told her we could if she wanted too...
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Old 09-28-2012, 10:34 PM #78
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finally installed a set of NGK plug wires, and got rid of the beldin wires... now lets hope for improved mpg. it was deff worth the $35 just in looks lol
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:13 PM #79
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this is just a copy and past of a wright up i did on this install over on rm4x4.org -im just to lazy to re-wright everything lol

ok so yesterday i picked up my new ARB bumper for a first gen tacoma -part number 3423020. i got it through a friends warehouse for a smoking deal, but still more than i wanted to pay for one... but at least i got it brand new and it came with everything i needed and then some to install. part of the reason i am doing this tutorial is that the installation instructions that come with the bumper are basically useless. i think youd have better luck teaching a pakistani child manors and english than you would reading the instructions and knowing just what to do and what goes where... that being said the instalations is pretty straight forward and is doable with one person(as i installed mine all by myself), but having a second set of hands could and would, not only make the installation process easier, but faster. really you should not need any instructions to do this as long as you have an idea of what your are doing and a basic understanding of DIY mechanics and basic sockets and wrenches. everything i did i used a 3/8 ratchet, and some wrenches. -all metric, and i did use a small cordless impact gun but it is not necessary to have -i only used it to speed up things.



so i started off by unwrapping everything taking all the nuts bolts and washers out of the bag and laying them out. this way i could easily see what i had and find what i needed (i also tried to put like sizes to of nuts and bolts ect together so that it would be easy to grab and find when i needed them). then i took all the big parts -bumper and brackets ect, and laid them out.



after this i started to undo my factory front bumper. -for me i also had a brush guard so this had to come off too. i want to sell this as a complete set up so i chose not to separate the brush guard from the factory bumper, instead i removed it all as one unit. this not only was in my mind easier, but it was faster and took less steps.


i removed the 4 bolts that hold the brush guard to the frame rails -you will have to remove these anyways to slide your new bumper mounting brackets over the frame rails anyways later on so this is a must (these are the bolts that hold your tow hooks on as well).


then i removed the four (two per side) bolts(either 12 or 14mm i dont remember) holding the factory bumper brackets to the frame (again i wanted to sell my factroy bumper and brush guard as a complete "ready to install" kit so this ways much easier than trying to remove the bumper from the brackets, and then remove the brackets...)



at this point it would be a good idea to unplug the turn signals and any other wires for fog/driving lights ect you may have, so you dont get hung up by the wires when you take the bumper off.


then their are two (one per side) nuts that have to be undone on the "wings" of the factory bumper. these are accessed from inside the fender-well. there is a round hole in the front of the inner finder liner going straight forward. dont forget about these (i did and could not for the life of me figure out why the bumper would not come off lol)



now simple and carefully lift up on the bumper and remove.

once you have the bumper removed from the vehicle you will see two end caps/cones on the ends of your frame rails. their will be a hole in the nose/front of them, inside there is a 12mm bolt holding the nose cone on, with a short extension and a 12mm socket remove the bolt and nose cone.


then you will take your sawzall or with a metal blade, or grinder and cut the "cap" or plate off of the frame rail. the cap/plate needs to be removed so that the ARB frame mounts will slide over and sleeve the frame rails.



(i forgot to take the first cap off, thats why you see it on while im cutting -this is no big deal you will just cut through that bolt and it will take longer this way. but the bolt is not used or needed any longer so its inconsequential)

once the cap/plate is removed smooth any sharp or jagged edges on the frame. at this point you can chose to weld in a new plate to recap the frame. this will strengthen the frame rails and prevent them from crushing or colapsing under loads -say from winching or pulling. it is strongly recommended by myself and others that you not only do this, but that if you are not a good welder you have someone who knows what they are doing and how to weld do this, as making a mistake here could result in sever damage to your frame at the very least and possible personal injury to you or someone else later on when your bumper comes lose while winching or pulling -not to mention the damage that could be caused to your vehicle and bumper. (i did not do this at this time only because i wanted to get the bumper on and was trying to hurry. i will be removing my bumper in the next week or so to install my winch when it arrives, and at that time i will recap and sleeve the inside of the frame as well at that point) and while the frame is still warm from welding, now would be a great time to put some primer and paint on the fresh steel. -i recomend some self etching primer for a base coat x2, then a coat x2 of primer sealer, then some black(-if you want everything to look nice, other wise just leave it primer, no one will ever see it...) to prevent rust.

(ill post up more pics when i weld in the cap and paint it)

once this is done and you have allowed the frame to cool, simply slide on the ARB bumper mounts over your frame rails. (this may take a bit of work as they are very tight tolerances, and may require some gental hammering to push them on, if you do need to hammer on them i recommend that you use a heavy short handled rubber mallet so you do not damage the poweder coated finish of the mounts. tap these pieces on until the holes on the bottom line up with the holes on the bottom of the frame rails (the same holes that your factory tow hooks attach to). then reinstall the four bolts and your tow hooks to hold the mounts in place.

(ill post better pics of the mounting brackets when i install my winch)

then find the six(6) square nuts that are inside of the clips and install them into the six(three per side) square holes in the brackets. they should just clip in.


now its time to pick up your bumper and set it on the mounting brackets. this is really where it would be nice to have another set of hands(and would be needed if your installing a winch, but the bumper by itself is do-able by yourself) align up the holes with the clipped nuts. once its in place insert the six(3 per side) bolts into the clipped nuts on the mounting brackets and just start the bolts, do not tighten them down all the way, just give them 3 or 4 turns each (make sure to use the supplied flat fender and lock washers with these bolts). as you can see in the pic their is a large gap between the body and the bumper, this can be adjusted by using a floor jack to raise the bumper(this is why you do not tighten them down all the way). once everything is where you want it and the gaps are equal on both sides you can tighten down the bolts(14mm)


(my helper and supervisor checking on things...)



now your bumper is installed and it is time to wire up any lights you may want to install on your new bumper, and your turn signals -for this you will need to cut the factory plug-in end off the wire harness for your turn signals. i simply just used a insulated female blade type plug and installed that onto my factory wires to allow the ARB blade connectors to fit right in. then i individually wrapped each connector in electrical tape and then tapped them together and up and out of the way.
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:15 PM #80
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if a*sholes could fly this place would be an airport -2004 GX470 spm -97 SR5 3.4, SCS Stealth 6's w/305 70 17s MTRs, Icon 2.5" RR w/700#coils, OME861s w/Icon tacoma 2.0 RR, ARBs w/nitro 4.88, PIAA LED lights, 170amp CS144, ARB snorkel, ARB bumper w/xd9000ce, CBI swingout loaded, BudBuilt skids, lil skip tank skid, sliders, LCE 231s(d&s), first gen roll bar mod, LED interior/dash lighting, B&M 70624+perma cool w/electric fan, dual electric fanshttp://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:21 PM #81
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That's soo drool worthy. Your rig looks awesome as always. I love my ARB hopefully yours will serve you well too!
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:19 AM #82
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installed my winch last night




boxed in the frame rails/end caps and painted them. -painting them while the metal is still hot from welding is almost like powder coating... i think i did 4 or 5 coats of primer sealer, and then 6+ coats of semi-gloss black









the caps i made are out of 3/8 plating, if i was thinking when i made them, i would have drilled a hole in them and welded a nut in behind them to really give the bolts something to bite into. as it is i ended up just drilling the hole and tapping the end cap, thankfully the only scrap steel i had laying around was 3/8" thick so its good enough, just not over built like i like.

had to relocate my trans filter, so i bought two new ones and decided to run dual filters to go with my dual coolers...

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if a*sholes could fly this place would be an airport -2004 GX470 spm -97 SR5 3.4, SCS Stealth 6's w/305 70 17s MTRs, Icon 2.5" RR w/700#coils, OME861s w/Icon tacoma 2.0 RR, ARBs w/nitro 4.88, PIAA LED lights, 170amp CS144, ARB snorkel, ARB bumper w/xd9000ce, CBI swingout loaded, BudBuilt skids, lil skip tank skid, sliders, LCE 231s(d&s), first gen roll bar mod, LED interior/dash lighting, B&M 70624+perma cool w/electric fan, dual electric fanshttp://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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Old 11-07-2012, 02:35 PM #83
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The truck is looking good man! And my dad wanted me to tell you that he ordered the part, its just taking awhile to get it for some reason.
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:23 PM #84
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no worries, yeah that thing is a life saver if you ever have to do a TB... its like a 40-50min job with that tool, you should get one yourself
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if a*sholes could fly this place would be an airport -2004 GX470 spm -97 SR5 3.4, SCS Stealth 6's w/305 70 17s MTRs, Icon 2.5" RR w/700#coils, OME861s w/Icon tacoma 2.0 RR, ARBs w/nitro 4.88, PIAA LED lights, 170amp CS144, ARB snorkel, ARB bumper w/xd9000ce, CBI swingout loaded, BudBuilt skids, lil skip tank skid, sliders, LCE 231s(d&s), first gen roll bar mod, LED interior/dash lighting, B&M 70624+perma cool w/electric fan, dual electric fanshttp://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:59 PM #85
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What's all this talk I hear about you heading to Cali while I'm gone? How long are you gonna be out there for? BTW bumper looks real good!
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:01 PM #86
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What's all this talk I hear about you heading to Cali while I'm gone? How long are you gonna be out there for? BTW bumper looks real good!
yeah i know, its one of my old childhood friends, almost like a sister, anyhow shes getting married and she told me i had to come down before i leave for afganistan... so yeah, we are making a little mini vacation out of it, gonna see some friends and family along the way -my grandma lives in the east bay, and other family in the napa valley...


-its your own damn fault for leaving on that stupid(read epic) road trip of yours with that dumb(read bada$$) RTT... there that should show you!
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:59 PM #87
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Do you have any plans to run a bolt through the endcap? Thats what I did on mine to give me a little more hold to the bumper. I don't know if it matters all that much to the strength of the mount but I know some others have done it as well.

the Rescue Runner build thread-endcap-jpg

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Old 11-13-2012, 09:24 PM #88
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Do you have any plans to run a bolt through the endcap? Thats what I did on mine to give me a little more hold to the bumper. I don't know if it matters all that much to the strength of the mount but I know some others have done it as well.

Attachment 75610

Attachment 75609
i could, but at this point i have not. i also have not added that 3rd bolt that requires you to drill through the frame through and through... i figure the winch is only held to the bumper by four bolts, so really imo the bumper only needs to be held by four. at a later date i could go back and redo the end caps with a nut welded in them for another bolt. my caps cetinally are strong enough i think i used 1/4" steel lol. we shall see how things look after a couple of pulls. -and i dong do much where im burried down in deep mud/muck. but i do get into some deep snow but i dont think snow will have as much holding power/drag as mud....

uptated
yeah so what i underlined there in my origonal post is bad thinking on my part, i didnt think about physics and forces... anyone reading this and thinking or going through the process of installing the ARB bumper especially if putting a winch in the bumper, needs a bolt through the end cap of the frame rail and the through crush bolt going top to bottom(or bottom to top depending). i made a pull with my winch with my bumper installed like this and i bent my mounting brackets. it put too much stress in the 4 bolts i thought would hold it just fine. and that pull was in snow. bottom line here, if you are not gonna instal a winch you could probably get away without the bolts through the end cap, but you will need the through top to bottom crush bolts. but if you are installing a winch you will need those end cap bolts -ARB desinged this bumper to have those bolts, they are needed!

i had to use the rectangle spacers provided by ARB in the hardware kit between my end caps and my bumper brackets. -they are the two rectangle silver pieces in the pic of everything laid out that are right above the small black metal "box". that metal "box" is what a few of the guys have cut up to make a end cap, as it already has a nut welded into it and there is two "boxes" that come with the bumper -they are parts that are used in the tacoma instal. i chose to make my own end caps as the ones i made are thicker.
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if a*sholes could fly this place would be an airport -2004 GX470 spm -97 SR5 3.4, SCS Stealth 6's w/305 70 17s MTRs, Icon 2.5" RR w/700#coils, OME861s w/Icon tacoma 2.0 RR, ARBs w/nitro 4.88, PIAA LED lights, 170amp CS144, ARB snorkel, ARB bumper w/xd9000ce, CBI swingout loaded, BudBuilt skids, lil skip tank skid, sliders, LCE 231s(d&s), first gen roll bar mod, LED interior/dash lighting, B&M 70624+perma cool w/electric fan, dual electric fanshttp://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:32 PM #89
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so today as i was admireing my new bumper and winch, day dreaming on how much fun it would be if there was a foot of snow everywhere right now(dont flame me, you know you all do it at some point or another), i noticed something my eyes did not like...




my ground wire for my temp gauge has gotten hot enough that the insulation has started shrinking back leaving quite a bit of exposed wire, and it looks as though the wire might be getting ready to break at the connector. i guess ill be doing some rewiring here soon. for those of you guys with trans temp guages -more specifically the auto meter guages, what size(awg) wire are you using for ground and signal?
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:34 PM #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the kid View Post
i could, but at this point i have not. i also have not added that 3rd bolt that requires you to drill through the frame through and through... i figure the winch is only held to the bumper by four bolts, so really imo the bumper only needs to be held by four. at a later date i could go back and redo the end caps with a nut welded in them for another bolt. my caps cetinally are strong enough i think i used 1/4" steel lol. we shall see how things look after a couple of pulls. -and i dong do much where im burried down in deep mud/muck. but i do get into some deep snow but i dont think snow will have as much holding power/drag as mud....
For sure. I would agree that snow would be better than the mud. Mud sometimes doesn't want to let go haha. I actually cut up the frame extension things (those weird boxes that came with the bumper) to make my piece.
Sucks to hear about the temp gauge wire. I'm sure it wont be to hard on you to run a bigger ground considering how much wiring you must have done for all those lights! How do you like the temp gauge? I've been thinking about getting one myself.
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