02-02-2012, 02:05 AM
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#1
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Rear differential fluid.
I haven't changed mine since I owned it, a couple years so I'm slacking on maintenance, but that's going to change. I saw that it wants GS-5 SAE 90. I have gathered you drain, fill until I slowly drips out plug and done. I am wondering what everyone is using, brand wise. I have heard good things about the amsoil synthetic. Thank you in advance for any help. Just trying to catch up on maintenance... Loooong overdue!
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02-02-2012, 02:09 AM
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#2
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Sorry GL-5
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02-02-2012, 03:09 AM
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#3
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I've got Lucas Oil synthetic in mine. Works good. I've heard a lot of good things about Amsoil, but I wanted something that I could just pick up at the automotive store. I figured with synthetic, I could go 5+ years between changes. And even though it's a very simple drain and fill, it's just one less thing to worry about if you go with synthetic.
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02-02-2012, 04:46 AM
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#4
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Very true! Thank you very much for the input!
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02-02-2012, 08:05 AM
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#5
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The biggest tip when doing this is to remove the FILL plug before the drain plug. Should the fill plug be rusted or too hard to remove, you haven't yet drained out the fluid.
I use Amsoil sever gear 75w-90 in the front diff, rear diff, and transfer case.
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02-02-2012, 09:24 AM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martini
The biggest tip when doing this is to remove the FILL plug before the drain plug. Should the fill plug be rusted or too hard to remove, you haven't yet drained out the fluid.
I use Amsoil sever gear 75w-90 in the front diff, rear diff, and transfer case.
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X2 except I have been using Mobil 1. Do not over fill by filling with the back up hill. This allows excessive oil to be at the axel/wheel seals.
If you have a manual trans, do not use a GL-5. Use a GL-4 only. It has less sulfer which can damage the brass in the transmission.
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Last edited by Gerdo; 02-02-2012 at 09:27 AM.
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02-02-2012, 09:52 AM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martini
The biggest tip when doing this is to remove the FILL plug before the drain plug. Should the fill plug be rusted or too hard to remove, you haven't yet drained out the fluid.
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x3...
Far as oil, brand doesn't really matter as long as you get the right one, and change it properly (i.e., don't consider it a lifetime part. I think the interval is 30-50k miles). I mean, don't get some uber cheap brand only sold at sketchy store with their name hand painted directly on the building, but any name brand should be fine. If you want something fancy you could use an oil with Moly in it (I might try this next time, I saw they sell moly oil at NAPA), but you aren't going to notice a difference no matter what you use, as long as it is the right thing.
Like Gerdo said though, that only goes for the diffs. Manual TC/Trans is a different animal and going low quality may affect your performance.
Also, consider getting new metal gaskets for the plugs when you do this. You don't have to replace them every time like the manual says you do, but if they are worn, been drained and filled a couple time without replacing it, then you might get a very slow leak; they do wear out. They are pretty cheap from a dealer, or a shop you take it to might have some generic ones on hand.
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http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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02-02-2012, 10:08 AM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martini
The biggest tip when doing this is to remove the FILL plug before the drain plug. Should the fill plug be rusted or too hard to remove, you haven't yet drained out the fluid.
I use Amsoil sever gear 75w-90 in the front diff, rear diff, and transfer case.
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X4...if I had not done this I would currently have no fluid in my front transfer case. I got the Amsoil. Severe Gear oil from NAPA fyi. Auto Zone, O'Reilly, Advanced Auto Parts, and Pepboys did not carry the Amsoil.
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02-02-2012, 11:09 AM
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#9
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I'm running Royal Purple's full synthetic in mine but any reputable syntheic should do just fine.
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02-02-2012, 03:11 PM
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#10
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Thank you guys for all the help! If the bolt is too rusted is it okay to try se pb blaster or something to get it off?
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02-02-2012, 03:23 PM
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#11
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Yeah, Pb blaster is fine. If the plug itself is rusted, consider just buying a new one. I don't think they are too expensive from the dealer.
I cleaned mine up with a dremel, then used a 15/16 socket as cleaning it off made it a little bit smaller.
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2000 SR5 3.4L V6 Automatic 4x4, e-locker, 175k Miles, Rust
Imp. Jade Mica with Oak Leather Interior, Field Monitor Unit - B&M Tranny Cooler - SG2 - New (to me) rear axle assembly - Goodyear Duratrac 265/75-16 - 1.8" Ironman Front Lift, OME 906/Procomp 9000 Shocks
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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02-02-2012, 04:51 PM
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#12
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The follow up question is, How many quarts would it take? 2? 3?
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02-02-2012, 05:38 PM
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#13
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My manual says 2.9, I've got a 2wd. Is that correct I guess?
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02-02-2012, 05:47 PM
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#14
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That seems correct but Im not sure you can actually drain out all of it. 2.9 would probably be total capacity if its bone dry. So Probably the answer might be 2.5? maybe?
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02-02-2012, 05:53 PM
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#15
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That probably sounds right, I know that's how my oil changes go! Haha
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