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Old 11-27-2012, 02:38 PM #16
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Rob,

unless its damaged, you dont need to replace it. Simply hit it with some brake cleaner or soak in a solvent to clean the metal screen. I was told by my local stealership, that the screens are warehoused in CA because they are not routinely needed by the mechanics unless the transmission has grenaded.
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Last edited by Drcoffee; 11-27-2012 at 02:40 PM.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:47 PM #17
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Alrighty then, just a new pan gasket and filter gasket?
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:26 PM #18
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Yep, you found it. It should be about $43-$44 wholesale.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:30 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Recoil Rob View Post
Alrighty then, just a new pan gasket and filter gasket?
The filter gasket is usually glued on. Unless it's hard and brittle, I'd leave it alone.

I do prefer to simply change the filter, since you don't have to worry about missing any gunk, or not getting the filter clean enough. You really can't spray the whole screen, and there's always part of it that you can't see. Plus you automatically get fresh filter gaskets on the filter.

For the pan gasket, toyota FIPG works....but I've always used the rubber gaskets. They're easier to install. You just have to torque the pan bolts a little tighter than spec, since the spec is for FIPG and they don't want you squeezing it all out.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:43 PM #20
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sheit. i think i used the autozone special on my '99? so far, no problems...
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:33 PM #21
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All the places offering filters said it did not include the gasket. Best price I found for an OEM was $38 but without gaskets.

Where do I get rubber pan gaskets?

And what's FIPG?

Dr. Coffee, when you spray the filter to clean it instead of replacing it do you remove it or do it while it's mounted in the tranny?
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:50 PM #22
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It's held in by a small bolt. I'd drop it out, clean it and put it back in. If it was me, I wouldn't drop the pan at all. Install a cooler, flush the transmission and install the Magnefine filter and call it a day. My concern is that by opening the pan you will stir up particulates that would not otherwise start moving on their own.



This is what you will find.

I'm not a big fan of just FIPG because its nearly impossible to clean the mating surfaces enough to get a complete seal. It works when it's new and no oil has been used yet. If you go that route, use some acetone to wipe before the FIPG. Do you see in the above photo oil dripping? You will be fighting a constant drip onto the mating surfaces. The FIPG won't seal or worse, pop out when the transmission heat cycles or from the pressure of the bolts. I agree somewhat with Quick. Use a quality gasket but I go one step further and coat both sides with a thin smear of RTV. This completes the seal where imperfections are.

Neither the OEM screen nor a new aftermarket filter will clean as well as the magnefine. So why open the pan at all. The screen isn't clogged or even causing a reduced flow. What's the point.
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Last edited by Drcoffee; 11-27-2012 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:58 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Recoil Rob View Post
All the places offering filters said it did not include the gasket. Best price I found for an OEM was $38 but without gaskets.

Where do I get rubber pan gaskets?

And what's FIPG?

Dr. Coffee, when you spray the filter to clean it instead of replacing it do you remove it or do it while it's mounted in the tranny?
FIPG is Form In Place Gasket. Get it from dealer to get the best, but i used aftermarket and doesn't leak. Just don't overtighten the tranny oil pan - then it will leak - ask me how I know. Alot of people use cork/rubber gasket and the IPT video recommends that since you're working against gravity here:
IPT Toyota A340 Valvebody Installation Instructions - YouTube

It's toward the end of video. Great video to get a feel of what your dealing with.

Also take the damn filter off before you clean it - its three bolts. I must be honest and say you asking that worries me lol. J/K - good luck.

Last edited by Jagerzel; 11-27-2012 at 11:06 PM.
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:03 PM #24
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Or like he said dont drop the pan. If you do, clean the magnets off and get ready to spend an hour scraping FIPG off the pan and tranny. Remember 95% prep and 5% work. To get my pan off I had to jack the truck up due to suspension components not allowing it to come out. Your experince may very. Also, that fluid is not cheap so if you have a leak when your done, you're gonna have to redrop the pan and reseal. And look at the mess in your driveway forever after your neighbor tells you about the puddle under your truck the next day lol.
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:32 PM #25
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And above all, remember to use a crush washer on the drain bolt of the pan!!

Seriously. If you don't use one, the drain bolt with ruin the threads on the pan when you screw it all the way in. The bolt is designed to use with the washer, and if there is no washer, you'll tweak the threads pretty good when you turn it the last turn or so to get it tight.
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:41 AM #26
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I wasn't looking forward to dropping the pan so i will forgo it. The B&M 70264 and the Magnefine are on the way.

At the risk of sounding really stupid and worrying you more, how does one flush a transmission? I just put the front wheel on ramps and let the fluid drain out for a few days.

BTW, I am getting a new plug and washer for the pan and I had already re-torqued the pan bolts, they were a little loose.
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:46 AM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Recoil Rob View Post
At the risk of sounding really stupid and worrying you more, how does one flush a transmission? I just put the front wheel on ramps and let the fluid drain out for a few days.

BTW, I am getting a new plug and washer for the pan and I had already re-torqued the pan bolts, they were a little loose.
Here is a DIY I posted for my Sienna but the same procedure holds true. Just use the appropriate trans fluid. No need to lift the truck for this job.

DIY Transmission flush on an '08 Sienna XLE - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Was the trans pan leaking? If not it might start now. The RTV generally doesnt like to be re-torqued. Keep an eye on for a while.
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:22 AM #28
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Thanks.

The bolts around the tranny pan looked wet but there was never any fluid on the ground. I torqued them to spec. and in the correct order.
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Good write up

Attempting the same job this weekend hopefully. Got into it because my return line is completely corroded! Got new send and return lines from toyota coming. And two o rings? May help
Also got a b&m cooler on the backburner ready. And from your advise a inline 3/8 filter on its way. Maybe some extra trans line. And some.more stainless clamps then i should be good to go.
Any extra advise?
Thanks anyway!
Would add a picture i have of the corroded line but not quite sure how to go about it..
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Old 02-25-2020, 11:31 AM #30
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3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos

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