Ok, so Im going to regear, Im just still debating on whether to go to 4.56 or 4.88.

Most of the input is that 4.56 is not enough gearing and to go to 4.88.

The arguments for 4.88 are that its better for going to 35's
You get your power/gas mileage back over the stock 4.10 gears. etc.
I have heard from people that have 33's and 4.88 that the move from 4.10 to 4.88 didnt feel that noticeable etc. and that 4.56 wouldn't even be worth it.


whereas I studied this chart pretty carefully.

From Feb 8, 2012

If indeed our transmissions are set up at 1:1... then this chart indicates that at 4.11 with 31 inch tires at 65mph engine RPMS would be about 2,896.

my current setup is:
at 4.11 with 33 inch tires at 65mp engine RPMS would be about 2,720. Which is still in the black, but closer to the fuel economy, farther from the power/torque/towing category.

so if I upgrade to 4.88 with 33 inch tires at 65mph engine RPMS would be about 3230.

If I upgrade to 35's with the 4.88 it drops back to 3045 RPMS and if I go to 37's I get to 2881 which is closest to stock 4.11 RPMS you can get on 37s..

or I could upgrade to 4.56 with 33 inch tires and engine RPMS go to 3018..

Heres the kicker... going to 4.56 with 35 inch tires seems to be the closest RPM at 2766... remember stock 31s and 4.11 RPM were 2,720...

So according to this chart if I gear to 4.56 with 33s I am a bit on the power side of the band.

For those with 4.88 that would say that they dont feel a difference I would say according to the chart they overgeared into fuel/mileage Yellow area and thats why they dont feel a difference in power.

Now this is if anyone thinks this chart is legit. Can you argue with the math? Could people have been gearing to 4.88 be overgearing and losing the power they would have kept at 4.56?


So, input everyone... Keep in mind the arguments for power and the blue and yellow sections of the chart also...

do you think the chart is right? should I gear to 4.56?

is the chart wrong? should I go to 4.88 like most of those I know that have regeared?

or should I scrap it, stay at 4.10 and save myself a few hundred bucks? and never go to 35s...

I dunno, Im probably overthinking this as I do everything...

A couple of things.

1. Play with this Calc. for a while.
RPM / Speed / Gear Ratio Visual Calc

2. 3rd gear is a 1:1 ratio in the automatics and 4th or OD is .705
3. if you are going to stay with 33's then go 4.56's but you know your gonna go 35's
4. I just went through this and I've been running my 35's with 4.10's and it was fine but reciently put in a 4.88 rear to drive for a while and see if I liked it, and gotta say it is perfect if not a little low. At 80mph (GPS) in top gear I am running right at 3450 rpm and if I did massive hiway miles I would go 4.56's But I don't so 4.88's are going in the front now too. Also I am SC'd.

Don't worry about over thinking it this is a lot of cash to drop so get what you like. if you can score a rear 3rd with each ratio put it in and drive the truck for a week or so with each and you will have your answer. Good luck.

Gear Ratio Calculator

Use that site. Just put in your info. It should be specific. I think the chart you're using's really off. With 4.88's and 33's you should be cruising at 2500 rpm going 70. The manual transmission has a lower 5th gear I believe. Correct me if i'm wrong but a manual's going to rev higher at 70mph than you are even if you both have 4.88's. If you're going up to 35's, 4.88's would be pretty close to stock. I'm assuming when you go that route though you'll have tons of armor which would make sense to have 5.29. You still won't be reving that high.

great info !!! this site is awesome! Gear Ratio Calculator

use the Toyota R150F (tacoma 3.4L v6) transmission and the Toyota Tacoma and FJ transfer case I verified that the Gearing matches up from Toyota 4Runner History 1996

•3.4-liter 4WD with 5-speed manual
Ratios 1st.........3.830
2nd.........2.062
3rd.........1.436
4th.........1.000
5th.........0.838
Reverse.....4.220

then you can play with and compare the 4.10 ratio with the 4.88 and the 4.88 with the 5.29. It also allows you to play with the crawl and road speeds both RPMS and MPH are editable...

I have a much clearer view of what Im looking at now to decide what I want, if I want to sacrifice some MPGs since its not my DD to get some more power, or do I want to keep the ratios smaller for rock crawling since Im a manual...

Another great calculator to play with.. I need to go get weighed with all the armor etc. to get a better idea of some of what that calc can do.

thanks for the great info!

To give you a number to play with, the weight of my 2001 4Runner as currently configured is 4700 lbs. 315/75s, 1/2 tank of gas, nobody inside the vehicle and my normally carried spares and recovery gear in the back.

Good to know, I have a pretty similar setup and what I saved in weight on bumpers I more than made up for in a frickin heavy storage box/sleeping platform which I may rebuild

I actually found this thread from last year and copied Brians quote over here... Great info.. now Im actually looking at the diff between 4.88 and 5.29...

I may do it, especially since I dont have to worry about the DD aspect. POWER ! hahahahaha

Neither the 4.88 or 5.29 are going to allow you to fly effortlessly up the mountain passes. To low and you will feel like the engine is constantly rapped out on the highway. Also neither is going to replace a crawl box for wheeling.

The big question is... Are you going to go to 35s in the future?
(you may want to price tires before you make that decision)

Shon,

Notice no one has voted for 4.56's.........

My vote is 5.29's

Sorry to ask this but, let me get this straight. You put 4.88 in your rear differential only? This can be done without problems?

Duhockey, maybe this server for reference:

http://www.sonoransteel.com/includes...Runner5.29.pdf

Cheers

You bet it can be done. As long as a couple of things are true.

1. your not a rig with full-time 4x4 (though if you removed the front driveshaft and locked the center diff you could)
2. you don't put the truck in 4x4

it is a great way to test if you like a gearset on the street. If you have access to a third member with the gears you want to try no better way to see if you will like them or not.

Ohh I see! Good info to know! Many thanks!

Last question. No problem with ADD w/o manual hubs to do the test? It's something that comes to mind without thinking

Gerdo is right about the pricing. Have you looked into the prices for 35's? The only affordable 35 is made by Treadwright. Otherwise expect to pay upwards of $1300 for a set of four tires not including mounting and balancing. I also recommend not using a 17" wheel. A 16" wheel is less painful on the wallet.

Ditto, after seeing this new calculator Im leaning heavily at the 5.29s... all my suppositions were based on the whether that was an accurate chart which no one til Rockdawg and FrankM23 really answered clearly.

Ryank, if this was a DD maybe the cost of the tires might influence me a bit more... maybe thats why Ive stayed at 33 so long. The cost of the 35's don't sway me much cuz 1. I already have 2 brand new 33 toyo open country mts that cost 310$ a tire anyways... so Im already at $1200+ for tires..

I will get another 2 new toyos in the next few months and this is no longer a DD so these tires should last awhile...