Well my rig does the *beep beep beep* when I get her squirly.

Then you dont have the same issue we do..

I stopped in my dealership. They said $50 to hook it up and try to simply reset it. If that doesn't work, and they have to actually do diagnostics, it'll be $92.

I'm scheduled for tomorrow afternoon at 2:30. I think the $50 reset will fix it. I can't imagine something getting too messed up just because I had the cluster out.

So if they do the reset then have to diagnose it, is that 92 on top of the 50? Or just 92 total?

Keep me updated on this.

No, just $42 more. So $50 at min, $92 at max. Unless I tell them to start ripping out the wiring harness and going crazy. lol

And?

I knew you were going to be on this like flies on poop. lol


I didn't make it today. Couldn't get away from work to go by. Monday afternoon was there next free time, so you'll have to wait till Monday my friend.

I stopped in the dealer 15 mins ago. The service manager read the code for me for free (win!) and the result is:

C1207 - P/R Range Switch


Here's the link to the FSM page on ncttora:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...b/cic12073.pdf

I'm not quite sure where to start. I feel like it HAS to be related to something I did when I was pulling the cluster in and out, and one time I even keyed it on with the cluster only partially in. I'm wondering if I fried the P/R switch, or something else accidentally. If someone that is better with electronics could interpret that wiring diagram in laymans terms, that would be awesome. Here's what I would like to know:

-What does "Driver Side J/B" mean?
-What are the first areas in the flow of that troubleshooting circuit that we can check?
-Where is the physical PNP switch located?

There's not a lot of info on the C1207 online....so if we can figure this out here on the forum, that would be sweet. Right now I'm still only $0 into this fix...and would like to keep it that way.

Ok. checking the PNP switch seems simple enough. Now where the heck is it?

On the passenger's side of the tranny (since it says to jack up the 4runner) perhaps near the neutral start switch.

I would love to hear the Toyota engineer's basis of merit for ever creating the VSC crap.

Bump. I priced a new Toyota P/R range switch. $250. Gulp.


Soo.....since I won't be buying one of those, my options are testing the current one, and if it's bad, I might just pull the bulbs out of the cluster so I don't have to look at the lights. Full time AndyMod. I'm ok with it for a while at least.

YIKES!!

May have to look to a part out for that one..

I have been meaning to take a look at mine. Ill do it tomorrow while I work on the cargo box.

You should try to get your code read sometime. I'm really curious if it's C1207 as well. It might be something else.....

For 90 bucks? lol no thanks.

I'll first see if the PNP thing is messed up. If it isn't then I will have to get the code scanned.

lol, nah, try to sweet talk the service writer. If he just grabs the reader and plugs it in himself (instead of having a tech do it) he shouldn't charge you...if he's a decent guy.

You might call and just ask. Mention that a friend with the same issue had his read real quick for free, and you simply want to verify that yours is C1207 too. If you already have it self diagnosed, and you just want a 1 min verification, they very well might be nice and just do it. Also depends on if you ever buy stuff from them. I'm always buying little crap from my dealer, so even though I'm not a big $$ spender...they still know me.

And yes, testing the PNP switch first is a good idea of course. If it tests fine....then you'll need the code, like you said.