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Old 04-20-2012, 11:12 AM #1
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Need advice on tubing my wells...

So I did gone and done it, cut my fenders front and rear. Now that that is done I am thinking this might be a good time to 'tub' my wheel wells up front. I am running 255s(33") right now, and plan on getting the Superswamper SSR 285/75/16 sometime at the beginning of next year. The SSR in 285s actually measure 33.9" in diameter unlike most 285s that measure ~32.8".

So to make room for that extra 1/2 inch I was thinking that I would cut out the 'red' portion I highlighted in the picture, and pound it back with a 12lb sledge till it meets back up with the seam and seal it together with 3M panel bonding adhesive... or at least try.
And the green circle is where I was planning on just beating the tar out of that area with the sledge.

So I guess my question is... does anyone think it is worth doing, or should I just forget all of that and just start beating the interior of the wells w/o any cutting?
Any advice is appreciated!
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Need advice on tubing my wells...-img_1558-jpg 
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:25 AM #2
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Here is a before and after pic. Not much of a change but I was eventually going to have to do it when I go to a bigger tire.
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Need advice on tubing my wells...-img_1487-jpg  Need advice on tubing my wells...-img_1559-jpg 
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Old 04-20-2012, 02:16 PM #3
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No one has any input??? This is T4R.org, or is this T4R.com?
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Old 04-20-2012, 02:44 PM #4
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I think I would try to cut it and bend up some new panels to glue or weld in. you've got a nice truck there, and you may regret pounding it ...
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:13 PM #5
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I fit 35's that measure 35" exactly on mine without tubbing. 100% not worth the effort to tub it for that size tire. Take a hammer and hit all that junk until it fits. no need to cut anything. But do what you want.

Even if you weld what you cut it will most likely leak. and good luck welding sheet metal. Plus you get the lovely job of pulling the carpet and all the electronics that you will damage unless you remove them.

Not worth it. Hit it with a hammer and if they barely rub then after 5K on those swamper they will be worn down and wont rub any more
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:39 PM #6
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I know there a few things on the inside of the firewall and behind the kick panels on both sides. Take a look before you start pounding.
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:58 PM #7
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^ Agreed, just got home from work and starting to dismantle. But your totally right, prob wanna take a look before pounding away.
Still on the fence on which way to go. Once I take everything apart I'll probably be more inclined on doing the tub. Make sure I don't catch my carpet on fire with the grinder! eeek
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Old 04-20-2012, 06:38 PM #8
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I did the exact same thing Twizzle and glad I did.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:19 PM #9
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Here's an idea: Do it RIGHT.

Don't beat on things with a hammer. Hammers are for nails. Don't GLUE metal. Glue is for wood and construction paper. Aircraft and some automobile manufacturers can get away with that sort of thing because they have the budget for R&D and to actually purchase the types of glue that will do the job.

Cut, grind, and weld, then seal with seam sealer. All of that, of course, comes after measuring, checking, measuring again, then measuring a third time. Do it right and the results will be worth it. You might even be able to sell it sometime down the line versus having to pay a wrecker to come haul it off because no one wants to buy your stupid mistakes.

Do it wrong, and you're just ****ing up your car. You will regret it. Sledgehammers and glue are wrong. If you need help to figure out the right way, find any high school dropout who went through autobody class and I'm sure they'll be more than happy to show you how it's supposed to be done for minimum wage.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:21 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spectre6000 View Post
Here's an idea: Do it RIGHT.

Don't beat on things with a hammer. Hammers are for nails. Don't GLUE metal. Glue is for wood and construction paper. Aircraft and some automobile manufacturers can get away with that sort of thing because they have the budget for R&D and to actually purchase the types of glue that will do the job.

Cut, grind, and weld, then seal with seam sealer. All of that, of course, comes after measuring, checking, measuring again, then measuring a third time. Do it right and the results will be worth it. You might even be able to sell it sometime down the line versus having to pay a wrecker to come haul it off because no one wants to buy your stupid mistakes.

Do it wrong, and you're just ****ing up your car. You will regret it. Sledgehammers and glue are wrong. If you need help to figure out the right way, find any high school dropout who went through autobody class and I'm sure they'll be more than happy to show you how it's supposed to be done for minimum wage.
x1,000,000,000,000,000,000

Hammering stuff like that is trail rig type ****. Dirtco did a great job tubbing his 4Runner.
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:13 PM #11
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im with j-money here, i just took my hammer and went to town lol eventually i'll TIG weld in a new piece for the cab but for now this will do.
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:25 PM #12
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i fit 33/12.5 r 15 Goodyear MTR's with just trimming/folding the pinch weld. just did a weekend at rausch creek in PA with no rub in the front.
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Old 02-09-2019, 11:29 AM #13
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I have a similar issue

DeTwizzle, what did you end up doing? I have similar issues.
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Old 02-09-2019, 01:23 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeTwizzle View Post
^ Agreed, just got home from work and starting to dismantle. But your totally right, prob wanna take a look before pounding away.
Still on the fence on which way to go. Once I take everything apart I'll probably be more inclined on doing the tub. Make sure I don't catch my carpet on fire with the grinder! eeek
@BrandonF has a pretty good writeup here.
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Old 02-09-2019, 03:51 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus View Post
@BrandonF has a pretty good writeup here.
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Thanks for sharing that. I'm happy to answer any questions anyone has about tubbing!
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