03-10-2019, 07:57 PM
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#46
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Official Vendor
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,120
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Official Vendor
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanNapoleon
I've swapped my bezel out. It's really not that hard at all, it just takes a bit of time. The trick to getting the window motor unbolted from the window itself is to roll down the window a few inches until you have clear access to each bolt. Besides that it's straightforward
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Who wants to help me do it and is close to PA????
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03-11-2019, 07:56 PM
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#47
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,156
Real Name: 3 Bears
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,156
Real Name: 3 Bears
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason B
Who wants to help me do it and is close to PA????
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for some reason I thought you lived in the Corvallis Oregon area
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2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
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03-12-2019, 09:39 AM
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#48
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: New Jersey
Age: 56
Posts: 1,963
Real Name: John
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason B
Who wants to help me do it and is close to PA????
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Where are you in PA?
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SILVER 2000 4runner Limited TOTALED
WHITE/SILVER 1999 4runner Limited l Rear Locker l Tundra/890 coils | 5100 Bilsteins all around | Sonoran Steel Bumpstops l 199 mm Tundra brake upgrade | SCS Matte Gray Ray10 Rims | 275 70 17 BFG KO2 tires | LR UCAs | EIMKEITH panhard brackets | LED interior upgrade l Rear LED tailights l Pioneer AVH-X5700BHS Alpine Type "R" speakers NVX JAD800.4 Class D Amp Kenwood Under seat Subwoofer l Front window tint 20% l Weathertech window visors and floormats l OutGear Solutions Full Length roofrack l Morimoto 40" LED lightbar
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03-16-2019, 01:07 PM
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#49
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegipper
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this happened to me. when you take off the two bolts that hold the latch mechanism on the inside you typically let it drop and ignore it. Be careful putting the latch mechanism back on because you have a 50% chance of putting it on upside down and if you do the handle on the outside will not work. There is a little plastic piece on handle that pushes down on the inside mechanism. test this before you put it back together and slam it closed. it's a PITA to solve if this happens
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2000 SR5 Sport 4Runner 4x4 5vze w/5 speed manual
Millennial Silver paint. Moon roof, Cloth Moon Mist interior
Still stock but not for long
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03-17-2019, 11:24 AM
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#50
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: SF Bay Area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny0
...you have a 50% chance of putting it on upside down and if you do the handle on the outside will not work....
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Ha! I did exactly that. Had to pull the cover from inside with the tailgate shut, pop the latch release by pulling the cable and take it apart again.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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2002 SR5 Sport Edition; Thundercloud; All Stock.
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06-13-2021, 08:49 PM
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#51
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Vernon, BC, Canada
Posts: 876
Real Name: Doug
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Rear handle has more or less stopped working
So, the rear handle started getting sticky a while back. Its now at a point where its become a PITA to open the hatch. I bit the bullet and ordered a new latch assembly and handle. Luckily, everything inside the hatch is rust free except where the latch assembly bolts in. I'll treat(Corroseal) that before I put it back together. So, at this point I just want to replace the handle. Do I need to remove the outside license plate bezel to do this? I appears that maybe I do, as there are little tabs on the handle frame----maybe for the plate light lenses?? After reading this thread, maybe I should have ordered a bezel (garish) foam gasket....?? Any input from someone who has done this would be appreciated!
Thanks in advance
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1998 SR5 3.4L V6 Auto... Pretty much bone stock...aside from the Tundra brakes, OME880 and OME906's in back all with Rancho 9000XL adjustable shocks ... "Livin' the dream in the Canadian Okanagan!"
Electronics/Telecommunications Engineering Technologist
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06-14-2021, 01:14 PM
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#52
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Location: Minnesota
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Real Name: Andy ಠ_ಠ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poleclimber63
So, the rear handle started getting sticky a while back. Its now at a point where its become a PITA to open the hatch. I bit the bullet and ordered a new latch assembly and handle. Luckily, everything inside the hatch is rust free except where the latch assembly bolts in. I'll treat(Corroseal) that before I put it back together. So, at this point I just want to replace the handle. Do I need to remove the outside license plate bezel to do this? I appears that maybe I do, as there are little tabs on the handle frame----maybe for the plate light lenses?? After reading this thread, maybe I should have ordered a bezel (garish) foam gasket....?? Any input from someone who has done this would be appreciated!
Thanks in advance
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just did this work myself see posts in build
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3641622-post297.html
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3641931-post298.html
yes get the weather strip, it will keep the water and junk out. you will probably want to take the bezel all the way off, IMO it's easier but others may have tricks I could not figure out. since I was repainting mine I took it all off.
I would also get the clips(7681789101) and pads for the garnish because you are probably going to rekt the old ones getting them off. just be super careful because the plastic is discontinued and the only source for them now is junk yards.
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06-15-2021, 09:04 PM
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#53
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Vernon, BC, Canada
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Thanks for the answer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad
just did this work myself see posts in build
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3641622-post297.html
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3641931-post298.html
yes get the weather strip, it will keep the water and junk out. you will probably want to take the bezel all the way off, IMO it's easier but others may have tricks I could not figure out. since I was repainting mine I took it all off.
I would also get the clips(7681789101) and pads for the garnish because you are probably going to rekt the old ones getting them off. just be super careful because the plastic is discontinued and the only source for them now is junk yards.
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I appreciate your advice on this. I will order the pads (is there more than one??) AND thanks for including the part number for the clips! I will follow your advice!!
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1998 SR5 3.4L V6 Auto... Pretty much bone stock...aside from the Tundra brakes, OME880 and OME906's in back all with Rancho 9000XL adjustable shocks ... "Livin' the dream in the Canadian Okanagan!"
Electronics/Telecommunications Engineering Technologist
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06-15-2021, 09:21 PM
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#54
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad
just did this work myself see posts in build
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3641622-post297.html
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3641931-post298.html
yes get the weather strip, it will keep the water and junk out. you will probably want to take the bezel all the way off, IMO it's easier but others may have tricks I could not figure out. since I was repainting mine I took it all off.
I would also get the clips(7681789101) and pads for the garnish because you are probably going to rekt the old ones getting them off. just be super careful because the plastic is discontinued and the only source for them now is junk yards.
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Bezel is still available. Part #76801-35260. This is I think for 99-01. Then 02 has some other ones.
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1999 Limited with rear locker.
Sherpa Matterhorn | Sonoran Steel Diff Drop | SPC UCAs | DuroBumps Front and Rear | OME 890 Springs and Black Tokico Shocks | Eimkeith Reinforcements and PCK | King Coilovers | OCD Sway Bar Links | Opt Offroad Rear Arms | Lil Skips Gas Tank Skid Plate | FGP Rock Sliders | 4x Innovations Rear Plate Bumper with tire carrier
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06-16-2021, 09:02 AM
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#55
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toverturf
Bezel is still available. Part #76801-35260. This is I think for 99-01. Then 02 has some other ones.
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your correct I think there is a different part for each year.
each place I tried let me order it then reply back and say it's unavailable.
for 98
76801-35160 - Finish Panel - 1996-1998 Toyota 4Runner | World Toyota Scion Parts
for 99+
76801-35260 - Finish Panel - 1999-2001 Toyota 4Runner | World Toyota Scion Parts
I have a 1998 and 2000
I measured the 2000 and the later years are a bit bigger in size... so.... I guess I would have to see them side by side to figure out if they could interchange based on the mounting points. I can't imagine they moved stuff?
looks like the new ones for 99-2000 don't come with the badge and that is fine by me hmmm darn there goes my money again.
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12-29-2021, 05:10 PM
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#57
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 39
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: San Jose, CA
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Many thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.
I just finished painting and refurbishing a bezel I pulled from a junkyard.
I used Rust-oleum Flat Soft Iron, followed by Satin Clear Enamel.
We also installed a rear backup backup camera while we were at it.
It took several hours to complete, but I'm happy with the results.
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12-30-2021, 08:41 AM
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#58
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Nassau
Posts: 292
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Nassau
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Installed my original 96-98 back on the other day. The chrome 02 bezel didn't cut it for me any more.
Did it with hatch open. Propped the black metal plate. Kept rear window closed. Used a 12" long skinny 1/4" drive- which is perfect for removing all 10mm nuts and plastic clips (press an rotate) Took about an hour. Don't mess with window mechanism or hatch handle- let in rest insitu.
Debadged the rear hatch leaving 4Runner one on bezel only. So much cleaner looking.
One thing, as I went from the larger later bezel to original smaller one I have a faint tide mark.
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