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Old 02-08-2017, 08:19 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1985taylor1925 View Post
I have my throttle body apart right now as I'm trying to figure out my idle issues and noticed that the butterfly doesn't close all the way. There's a slight gap in it top and bottom. But on mine it's because the adjustment screw is set to where it keeps the butterfly just slightly open. I can tell it's been this way for a long time because I can see the yellow loctight hasn't separated.

I am having terrible issues with idle now two weeks after pulling everything off and changing the valve cover gaskets. I have poor idle initially, like to the point of where the truck struggles to start. And then once it's warmed up it idles at 1600+ rpms.

So my questions, is the butterfly supposed to be slightly open at idle? Or should I adjust the screw so it's closed. And does anyone have another idea as to why my idle is so low initially and then high once warmed up?

Throttle body is clean
Gaskets are good
All hoses were attached

One other thing I should add is that I changed the pcv valve, and the grommet was a bit loose. I didn't have a grommet so I just used rtv to seal the grommet to the valve cover, and to seal the pcv to the grommet.
Sounds like you have a vacuum leak so you just manually turned down the throttle. The yellow paint was put there at the factory.

You should replace that grommet asap and never use any rtv where there is vacuum. It will not seal and cause high idle issues, or worse be sucked into a sensor and plug something.

Last edited by frodiesel; 02-08-2017 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 02-08-2017, 09:08 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frodiesel View Post
Sounds like you have a vacuum leak so you just manually turned down the throttle. The yellow paint was put there at the factory.

You should replace that grommet asap and never use any rtv where there is vacuum. It will not seal and cause high idle issues, or worse be sucked into a sensor and plug something.
I checked all the vacuum hoses and sprayed them to see if there were any leaks. Didn't see any. I sealed the outside of the grommet, so not worried about rtv getting in it. But isn't pcv supposed to be air tight? Only reason I sealed it is because I could move the grommet by hand so seems like it wouldn't be sealing
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Old 02-09-2017, 02:40 AM #33
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Its not a part that you should use rtv on. It could just be a bad iac valve

Ive cured a looping low idle on my camry with throttle body cleaner before. Not sure if tue 4runner uses the same part.

Last edited by frodiesel; 02-09-2017 at 06:04 AM.
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Old 04-22-2017, 06:47 PM #34
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What an extremely frustrating problem! After doing a full throttle body + IAC cleaning my idle was at 2000+ rpm and would hang when I pressed the accelerator. The washer mod did not fix the problem, what I ended up having to do was add a stronger return spring. Now it idles at 800 rpm...but the disadvantage is the throttle response does not "hang" and feels "heavy."

I didnt realize how sensitive these throttles were!
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Old 04-22-2017, 07:19 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobb View Post
What an extremely frustrating problem! After doing a full throttle body + IAC cleaning my idle was at 2000+ rpm and would hang when I pressed the accelerator. The washer mod did not fix the problem, what I ended up having to do was add a stronger return spring. Now it idles at 800 rpm...but the disadvantage is the throttle response does not "hang" and feels "heavy."

I didnt realize how sensitive these throttles were!
you know just because you cleaned the IAC doesn't mean its working, mine was clean as a whistle but the coil was bad. check out my post on manually operating the IAC.....it works I tell ya!
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Old 04-22-2017, 07:23 PM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baja1 View Post
you know just because you cleaned the IAC doesn't mean its working, mine was clean as a whistle but the coil was bad. check out my post on manually operating the IAC.....it works I tell ya!
I manually applied +12V to the associated pins to test that the IAC opened and closed normally. The IAC was not the problem.
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Old 04-25-2017, 12:42 AM #37
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As an update with my spring mod, I've noticed that over the course of the last few days of driving and several on/off cycles, I've been able to gradually loosen the spring tension slowly and the idle has been slowly self adjusting. I am at the point where I've removed this spring completely and the idle has greatly settled down.

It seems our ECU might have some self adjusting idle function where over time it gradually compensates for the throttle body behavior. Would be interested if anyone can comment better on how this works. The FSM makes no reference on calibrating the idle. Pulling the EFI fuse and cutting power to the ECU does not seem to reset the idle and it appears the idle relearning process is very slow and gradual.
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:55 AM #38
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new guy here... I need help

I tried the washer mod and now my truck idles at 3k took the washer off and still at 3k all I did was take the nut off and slide the throttle bracket off... with the throttle bracket off it idles at 800 (normal) but if I slowly slide it back on to the end it idles back up to 3k?? ANY IDEAS!?
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Old 07-09-2018, 12:04 PM #39
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Loosen your throttle cable maybe?
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Old 01-27-2019, 06:07 PM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobb View Post
What an extremely frustrating problem! After doing a full throttle body + IAC cleaning my idle was at 2000+ rpm and would hang when I pressed the accelerator. The washer mod did not fix the problem, what I ended up having to do was add a stronger return spring. Now it idles at 800 rpm...but the disadvantage is the throttle response does not "hang" and feels "heavy."

I didnt realize how sensitive these throttles were!
So on mine itís a bit different. I actually have a cable going to the return. I just went thru and did a TB, IAC and MAF cleaning just now and got a high idle (2k) but if I put it in drive I can get it down to 1k but then it starts sounding like it will die, but so far hasnít died at all. Will try this washer mod, seems to be a simple fix, in hopes it is this easy. When I pull the spring back like the return spring would do the idle gets better but the engine sounds worst. Not sure, but is the return cable adjustable? Besides at the throttle body? Iím kinda maxed out on the adjuster.
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Old 02-20-2020, 07:38 AM #41
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High idle after fuel pump change

Just recently changed my fuel filter and pump, unfortunately didnít do it myself, I had to raise the white flag because I didnít feel like laying in the snow In my driveway. When I got it back it idles really high, higher than normal... I will look at linkage issue. I was wondering what was going on...
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Old 02-20-2020, 11:58 AM #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill1988 View Post
Just recently changed my fuel filter and pump, unfortunately didnít do it myself, I had to raise the white flag because I didnít feel like laying in the snow In my driveway. When I got it back it idles really high, higher than normal... I will look at linkage issue. I was wondering what was going on...
How high is the idle?

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Old 02-21-2020, 04:34 PM #43
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Last summer, in the heat, I adjusted the accelerator cable right at the edge of too tight. This winter, I paid the price. Once it got below 30įF, the idle would kick up to ~1100 RPM. Today I slacked off slightly, and it's back to a steady 650.

So it is better to do this job in the winter or leave a little slack if the weather is hot.
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