Sounds like you have a vacuum leak so you just manually turned down the throttle. The yellow paint was put there at the factory.

You should replace that grommet asap and never use any rtv where there is vacuum. It will not seal and cause high idle issues, or worse be sucked into a sensor and plug something.

I checked all the vacuum hoses and sprayed them to see if there were any leaks. Didn't see any. I sealed the outside of the grommet, so not worried about rtv getting in it. But isn't pcv supposed to be air tight? Only reason I sealed it is because I could move the grommet by hand so seems like it wouldn't be sealing

Its not a part that you should use rtv on. It could just be a bad iac valve

Ive cured a looping low idle on my camry with throttle body cleaner before. Not sure if tue 4runner uses the same part.

What an extremely frustrating problem! After doing a full throttle body + IAC cleaning my idle was at 2000+ rpm and would hang when I pressed the accelerator. The washer mod did not fix the problem, what I ended up having to do was add a stronger return spring. Now it idles at 800 rpm...but the disadvantage is the throttle response does not "hang" and feels "heavy."

I didnt realize how sensitive these throttles were!

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you know just because you cleaned the IAC doesn't mean its working, mine was clean as a whistle but the coil was bad. check out my post on manually operating the IAC.....it works I tell ya!

I manually applied +12V to the associated pins to test that the IAC opened and closed normally. The IAC was not the problem.

As an update with my spring mod, I've noticed that over the course of the last few days of driving and several on/off cycles, I've been able to gradually loosen the spring tension slowly and the idle has been slowly self adjusting. I am at the point where I've removed this spring completely and the idle has greatly settled down.

It seems our ECU might have some self adjusting idle function where over time it gradually compensates for the throttle body behavior. Would be interested if anyone can comment better on how this works. The FSM makes no reference on calibrating the idle. Pulling the EFI fuse and cutting power to the ECU does not seem to reset the idle and it appears the idle relearning process is very slow and gradual.

new guy here... I need help

I tried the washer mod and now my truck idles at 3k took the washer off and still at 3k all I did was take the nut off and slide the throttle bracket off... with the throttle bracket off it idles at 800 (normal) but if I slowly slide it back on to the end it idles back up to 3k?? ANY IDEAS!?

Loosen your throttle cable maybe?

So on mine it’s a bit different. I actually have a cable going to the return. I just went thru and did a TB, IAC and MAF cleaning just now and got a high idle (2k) but if I put it in drive I can get it down to 1k but then it starts sounding like it will die, but so far hasn’t died at all. Will try this washer mod, seems to be a simple fix, in hopes it is this easy. When I pull the spring back like the return spring would do the idle gets better but the engine sounds worst. Not sure, but is the return cable adjustable? Besides at the throttle body? I’m kinda maxed out on the adjuster.

Just recently changed my fuel filter and pump, unfortunately didn’t do it myself, I had to raise the white flag because I didn’t feel like laying in the snow In my driveway. When I got it back it idles really high, higher than normal... I will look at linkage issue. I was wondering what was going on...

How high is the idle?

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Last summer, in the heat, I adjusted the accelerator cable right at the edge of too tight. This winter, I paid the price. Once it got below 30°F, the idle would kick up to ~1100 RPM. Today I slacked off slightly, and it's back to a steady 650.

So it is better to do this job in the winter or leave a little slack if the weather is hot.

Well, Ive got an interesting problem. Got the linkage off. Installed the washer and began tightening the nut against the split ring washer. Went on enough that about 3 or 4 threads are showing past the nut. Won't go any tighter and won't come off. Didn't have much of a struggle getting it off.

In the event the bolt running through the linkage is toast, anyone know the part number or if it can be replaced. ugh. If i didn't have bad luck, i'd have no luck at all. dang it.

UPDATE: I got the nut back off. But be warned, the threads on these BOLTS are very fragile. As I stated, I didn't have much problem at all loosening the bolt. Got it on the first try w/ nothing but a 12mm spanner. The bolt's threads came right off with it. Can't buy just the linkage, and in my case (manual transmission w/ cruise control), a used part doesn't come cheap as best I can tell. $390 incl tax via earnhardt toyota (who seems to be far better priced on EVERYTHING vs Camelback these days). And just to emphasize, living in the desert, rust is non-existent on my truck (original owner). This wasn't an issue of rust.

UPDATE2: Had to replace the entire throttle body. No high idle issue. lol

For some folks that might wonder in here with a slightly high idle:

I just did the valve cover gaskets. Got everything back in place, had a high (1200-1300) idle when in park, with ac off. Before the gasket job, this was usually in the 700-900 range.

After watching a bunch of videos brainstorming what it could be, and dreading having a bad IAC valve, I decided what the hell, I'll reset it. So I pulled the negative terminal on the battery, let it set for a few mins with the headlight switch on.

Turned the car back on after hooking the battery back up and it ran horrible at idle. Almost to the point of stalling. Then about 20 seconds after startup, I heard a click, and its now running exactly like it was before, perfectly.

I think the ecm had to relearn or reset the IAC valve or something. Not going to pretend to know why this worked, but it did.

Hope this solves at least one other guys problem, as it was making me sweat buying a new IAC.

Thanks 👍