[MountainBiker]

This is some great info and analysis! I sorely need to replace my stock suspension with something taller and smoother offroad, but I don't want to want to be swapping parts 3 or 4 times to get it right. I look forward to seeing where you go with your build!

[Dezert4Runner]

I've been following the rear suspension part of your build pretty closely. I picked up some 2012 FJ Cruiser Tokiko shocks brand new from the local Toyota dealership a couple months ago for $30. I couldn't pass them up at that price! They measure 23.5" extended, but I knew from Sonoran Steel's website if they exceeded 14.5" compressed that I'd have issues. I can't find info on the compressed length, and am not sure how you figure that out without knowing the exact travel of the shock. It should be a 8-8.5" travel length I'm guessing?

I was thinking of running them with my 99 talls + a 1.5" Daystar spacer so I could keep my stock cone bumpstops and travel specs and have less chance of maxing out my shocks when compressed. I have also been concerned about the diameter of the shock end in regards to where it mounts up top and needing to drill out the mounting hole. Now that I have some info on the stock size from your last post, I have a micrometer at work that I could use to answer that question...

I also thought of running the 890's, but then it opens up a whole other can of worms with bumpstops.

Keep the info coming!

[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by Dezert4Runner

I've been following the rear suspension part of your build pretty closely. I picked up some 2012 FJ Cruiser Tokiko shocks brand new from the local Toyota dealership a couple months ago for $30. I couldn't pass them up at that price! They measure 23.5" extended, but I knew from Sonoran Steel's website if they exceeded 14.5" compressed that I'd have issues. I can't find info on the compressed length, and am not sure how you figure that out without knowing the exact travel of the shock. It should be a 8-8.5" travel length I'm guessing?

I was thinking of running them with my 99 talls + a 1.5" Daystar spacer so I could keep my stock cone bumpstops and travel specs and have less chance of maxing out my shocks when compressed. I have also been concerned about the diameter of the shock end in regards to where it mounts up top and needing to drill out the mounting hole. Now that I have some info on the stock size from your last post, I have a micrometer at work that I could use to answer that question...

I also thought of running the 890's, but then it opens up a whole other can of worms with bumpstops.

Keep the info coming!

Sup DesertRunner,
I'd recommend a 13.5" compressed height, not 14.5". The stock frame bump stops start working when the shock is collapsed to 14", so you need shock capacity beyond that our the rear shocks won't be protected. If you are spacing the rear bumps down at least an inch, then a 14.5" shock would be ok, just keep in mind that the bumpstop only has an inch to work with before your shock bottoms out.

I tend to not trust numbers online, even if they're from a reputable source, like Sonoran. To measure compressed height, I lean on the shock and fully compress it, then get a measurement from the ground to the upper mount. I find it is easier with a rigid yard stick then a flexible tape measure. Then, let it expand and measure from the bottom of the shock to the center of the lower bushing. Subtract this amount from your first number and you should have your compressed measurement. To get a number for total shock travel, subtract your compressed total from your extended number.

[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by MountainBiker

This is some great info and analysis! I sorely need to replace my stock suspension with something taller and smoother offroad, but I don't want to want to be swapping parts 3 or 4 times to get it right. I look forward to seeing where you go with your build!

Thanks MtnBkr! There are plenty of well sorted systems out there that are relatively inexpensive. The big question you have to ask yourself is what your mix of driving will be. I thought I had planned my build out fairly well for 90% street use, and it would have been nice if I towed more or was willing to make due with a stiffer suspension, but I've realized that I'm ok with a softer suspension on the street if it means that the ride and suspension setup will make use of all its travel off road. With the setup I had initially made, I would really have to hammer on it to get it to use its travel. Long story short, the better job you do being realistic with yourself about ow you'll use your rig, the better your chances you have of building a setup that is right the first time. I don't want to say I'm going back to the drawing board entirely, but my approach is going to change if I can't find the ride I'm looking for. It might be cheaper to get some suspension components that would allow me to rebuild and revalve.

Hmm...

[The4kbeast]

I'm way overdue for installing m diff drop. Originally, this was going to be a 2" lift that was borderline... meaning that some don't do the DD with only 2". I wanted to over my bases and play it safe. I ended up with a 2.5" lift total, so I need to sacrifice one weekend wheeling night and do the install.

I'm starting late, so I better start by hammering out the front skid mounting reinforcements. The Sonoran kit supposedly doesn't require you to space down the plate to get you CVs at a less stressful angle. I'm going to see if i can just hammer the reinforcement/mounting ribs instead of cutting the, out like a few others have done. These things are soft enough when hit without compromising their backbone.

[The4kbeast]

Debadged the rear a bit, got carried away on the right side. May take 4Runner off, too. Maybe next time:


Installed some trunk Dynamat in the drivers door, and tried to narrow down why the window motor is groaning every time I put the window down. Also checked out the tC speaker swap... And decided not to attack it today.

Installed Sonoran diff drop kit:
Hot tip - when you are going back together with the tapered spacers, be sure to go back and forth between bolts tightening so the spacers will rotate the correct way with the dots facing forward. Mine actually overtightened and started move past straight forward. If you only do one all of the way tight, you increase the chance of tightening it off axis. Installed:


Should prob do a limited write up from the pics I snapped...

[The4kbeast]

Diff drop install
It's been we'll documented, but is an easy job. I'm going to cover my mod to the front OEM skid plate to clear the lower diff

The plan:


Rough cut:



Pounding center rib, still need to grind the rough cut edge (no pic):


Finished pounding flat with ball peen hammer, cleaned prepped, and painted:




Completed. Very happy with the Sonoran kit versus some of the other kits I've installed. The taper on the spacer and new bolts for the skid make the difference!


The Toyota sticker started as an impulse job since I had a bunch of Toyota sponsorship sticker for my Starlet and Solo 2. Was thinking it would get trashed quickly and then I'd take it off. Yet, it's still there.

[The4kbeast]

Reached out to Radflo to offer up a test vehicle to develop a system for the 3rd gens since it doesn't list it on their site. Thought I remembered someone talking about them when I was first poking around for suspension goodies, but it might have been either a Overland Warehouse thing, or eve for a 4th or 5th gen.

Regardless, I heard back, and they do offer two different setups for the third gen.

Subject: Radflo Options for 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner?

<>
Jeff,
Thanks for the inquiry. We do manufacture both front coil-overs and rear shocks for the 3rd generation 4runner and have done so for many years. Unfortunately, they were not included in the initial development of our web site. The web site was created and is maintained by a third party and we are in the process of bringing that back in house so we can easily update it.
We make our coil-overs and shocks in both 2.0" and 2.5" diameters. Up front I would definitely recommend going with the 2.5" diameter shocks as they offer the best ride quality and performance. The have a larger piston and allow for more oil flow. With less weight in the rear our 2.0" shocks are a perfect upgrade from the traditional Chinese made OME twin tubes. I have listed the various part numbers and pricing below. All of these are real race style shocks that are fully re-buildable and are valved specifically for the 3rd gen.

6CT 004 00 2.5" Front Coil-Over Pair $1134.00
5CT 004 00 2.0" Front Coil-Over Pair $872.00
5ST 009 0E 2.0" Rear Shock $230.00 per shock
6ST 009 0E 2.5" Rear Shock $300.00 per shock

Please let me know if you need any other information.

18375 Bandilier Circle | Fountain Valley, CA 92708 | W: Radflo Suspension Technology
<>

I stopped by their booth at SEMA and have to say that I was impressed with their products. They didn't spend a boat load of cash on a vehicle to display, or a chick in a bikini. They jammed as much product as they could display for the area they had. I've seen them on the various online forums I frequent, there are also quite a few reviews with positive comments about your offerings, quality, product line, and price point. I've seen a few with complains of squeaking noises, which I wouldn't be surprised to find on a coilover.

Their display:






I'm tempted to order a pair of their rear 2.0 setup to try them out. Although at today's prices it is only $140 more to get the 2.5s, which would be comparable to an external reservoir 2.0... but add $200 and you would have Icon rears, which are trusted and known.

I sent a follow up email to get dimensions on them. I forgot to ask if they were a floating piston or emulsion style, and whether the valving was basic or digressive. I guess that's for the third email...

[The4kbeast]

Was thinking of painting my LX wheels black, so did a quick search and found these:
(FS) LX450 Wheels with Fresh Teflon Matt Black Powder Coat $800 + shipping


They look great, but would be CRAZY to duplicate:


Then I saw this shot from one year later... Can't tell if they're dirty or just not holding up well in background, cause no one bought them):

[rickashay]

I'm interested on what you dig up from Radflo. I'm in the process of educating myself on shock technology and valving. You wouldn't happen to have found out the valving for those rear Bilstein Tundra shocks, did you? Or the OEM LC Tokico valving? I need to find the "most appropriate" valving numbers for our rigs...

RE: wheels. I think those wheels just look dirty as you can see the red dust around the hub. FWIT I re-finished my old FZJ80 wheels with elbow grease, some primer, and a rattle can job. They turned out surprisingly well and held up to tons of off road abuse. The nice thing was, when I would chip them on rocks or something I could just touch the paint up and you would never be the wiser.

[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by rickashay

I'm interested on what you dig up from Radflo. I'm in the process of educating myself on shock technology and valving. You wouldn't happen to have found out the valving for those rear Bilstein Tundra shocks, did you? Or the OEM LC Tokico valving? I need to find the "most appropriate" valving numbers for our rigs...

Sup Rickashay, I think my Bilstein Rep forgot to call me back or follow up to my email. Was supposed to send him PNs, and he was going to follow up pwith me. Never heard back, so itd be on me to dig it up. I dont think Tokico shared valving information openly like Bilstein does (to Bilsteins credit). Thats why i was trying to see what Bilstein did, so I could make a very unscientific guess at what Tokico was doing to control the back end ofthe LC.

Speaking of Raflo, they have an awesome page on their site that covers the different types of shock technologies and what they're best used for. from emulsion, to air, etc. they wrote back and denied my request for shock dimensions, saying that they "do not divulge our OE replacement shock dimensions. None of our competitors do either as we all spend so much time and money in R&D on these. If we did post these our competitors would more than likely just copy them. I can tell you that our dimensions on your 4Runner are very similar to the Australian brands (TJM, ARB, IronMan). They seem to be the only ones left who make a rear spring for them anyways.
We only use Eibach springs which we feel are the best spring on the market. This gives us the capability to fine tune the spring rate on the coil-overs to match what accessories you have on the vehicle and how you will use the vehicle. We can offer 600Lb, 650Lb, and 700 Lb springs. All of our coil-overs and any rear shocks that have an eye have Teflon lined bearings on the top and bottom. Please let me know if you need any additional information. Thanks"

Hopefully they don't have a bearing upper mount. And it is BS that they won't share their dimensions. I don't want a 7.5" shock, and I don't want to buy a shock to discover what their dimensions are. I understand about protecting your business, but protect your valving design and dimensions, not something as important as you shock length compressed and extended.

Originally Posted by rickashay

RE: wheels. I think those wheels just look dirty as you can see the red dust around the hub. FWIT I re-finished my old FZJ80 wheels with elbow grease, some primer, and a rattle can job. They turned out surprisingly well and held up to tons of off road abuse. The nice thing was, when I would chip them on rocks or something I could just touch the paint up and you would never be the wiser.

Did you paint after the tires were installed, or before? From the sound of your prep work, it sounds like you didn't use the dang plasti-dip that everyone goes on about. Need to read up on primer as well, don't remember if I want an etching or non-etching primer. Any recommendations on paint type? I'm going to end up just painting over the chrome... I don't want to pay over $100 for media blasting if there is no guarantee that it will work.

[rickashay]

Hmmm... interesting stuff there. I'm surprised they won't "leak" their compressed and extended lengths as I am sure their OEM replacement shocks are off the shelf units with probably specific valving for that application.

I've been looking at the Fox shocks a lot recently. I like the fact that you can get them with a zinc coating like the Bilsteins, so they will be more corrosion resistant. They also have an option for rubber bushings which is nice because as good as all that "teflon" coated blah blah blah sounds, its going to be squeaky and annoying down the road. Or at least, that's what my research has shown. I hate annoying noises coming from my truck, but that's just me and I also would prefer to run BJ UCA's (like your Light Racing ones) vs. a uniball set for the same reasons.

Regarding the wheels: I used sand paper and emery (spelling?) cloth to remove the surface coat on the factory finish and got rid of all of the pitting etc. I filled any "larger" existing wheel knicks with JB Weld and sanded them flat upon drying. I then used Duplicolor self-etching primer on the wheels. After the primer I did a Duplicolor "hi-temp" wheel coating in gloss black followed with a few coats of clearcoat. You can see I started to work on them on this page in my build thread: 98 SR5 - The "Dirt Duster" build
If you follow along for a couple more pages you will see them all finished in their shiny glory. haha

[Yoter]

Originally Posted by The4kbeast

Sup Yoter, thanks for following up. those measurements match what I got out of Tundra Double Cab front springs and 906 rears with around 50 lbs in back. I am running the stock bump stop in the spring. How is the small bump compliance with your Tundra access cab fronts? I'm trying some of the OEM Tokico LC80 rear shocks next, will be here Friday. Won't work with your 906s due to their shorter length...

I am glad to know that we at least got the same amount of lift. I am on the hunt for a cheap set of FJ Cruiser springs and shocks I have seen them go for only 50 dollars on craigslist, figure its worth trying.

As for the "bump compliance", if I correctly understand what you are asking... On small rough surface texture at low speeds it is rather jaring, not bad enough to be uncomfortable but as you said in an above post I feel like I am not using the travel of the suspension but rather just bouncing over the terrain. At higher speeds (~30mph) I am very impressed with the TRD's they give just enough to soak up the minor bumps. I have not done any wheeling or crawling this is just my experience on rough pavement and dirt fire roads.

Rather than enlarging the rear shock mounting whole, would it be possible to grind down the shaft of the fj80 shocks and rethread them to fit?
I know this is a lot of work but shouldn't the stock thickness be strong enough, If I cant find another cheap and effective shock I might try this.

I am also now thinking that a diff drop would be a good idea even if it changes the angle of the diff enough to cause lubrication issues I am so rarely in 4x4 that I think it is the lesser of the two evils for me.
Is there a reason that you chose the Sonoran over the Toytec?

[The4kbeast]

I've been quietly sniffing around Rigid Industries website dreaming up mounting locations. I have an epic idea for mounting, but my brother talked some sense into me.

Me: "These LED bars are sick... Low power and bright as hell."
Bro: "yeah, but without a roof rack, all of your light output is at headlight level or lower which would be garbage for higher speed off road. Why not just improve you stock lighting?"

Solid logic, so I poked around and found Bandit Runners thread installing the H1 minis. Bandit Runner's Projector Headlights
Sounded fairly easy. So now I've decided to do this before getting led bars, as they are about the same money. Just trying to figure out which is best in Terms of width of beam, cost, and what will fit and lock in the housing solid enough that it doesn't bounce around in the housing (if it really is even an issue). In the comment section, I noticed one person complaining that they couldn't tighten everything down enough to keep the bouncing down.

I wrote Bandit to see...

[Yoter]

I know that you like to do thorough research, not sure if you have come across this site but I found it to be helpful and the users to be very friendly and wiling to answer all my noob questions!
HiDplanet : The Official Automotive Lighting Forum
Hope this helps

They also have a good classifieds section