[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by T4R2014

Good start. I'll keep an eye on this build. Btw, all I ever use are OEM oil filters (90915-YZZD1) but I still get oil all over the block when doing oil changes.

Nice... evidently the anti-drainback valve is only good for building oil pressure at engine starts.

Originally Posted by 1985taylor1925

Hello and welcome. A few things . . .

I (along with many many other here) have the TRD Tundra set up in the front, and would highly recommend it. Im runnning OME 890s in the back, with OEM Tokicos from a 91-98 Landcruiser, and I really like it. I know the 906 are a little shorter and stiffer than the 890s. But for the price, I think your suspension option 1 is excellent. Though if I had the money I would get ICON coilovers in a heartbeat.

What is this "jounce member" youre referring to? Ive never heard that term before

Good to hear that you're a fan of the Tundra setup. Despite the increased dampening, does it still have small bump compliance? Is the compression dampening too firm? Is it too firm on paved roads? Based off of how things ride now, I'm thinking that the front needs a softer setup or it will shake my teeth out offroad.

As for the rear, I'm concerned that a 906 would be too short for some of the longer rear shocks. I helped a buddy put a lift on his '97 4Runner w/ 906's with longer rear shocks and the spring would unseat in extreme articulation situations. I did a search to see if others had a good explanation of the differences between OME static lengths... here's an explanation from Valkyrie over on TTORA.

//SNIP// from Valkyrie at TTORA
Here's the scoop:
The 906 is actually a 'medium' spring specifically designed for the 4Runner. It results in about 2" of lift.
The 890 is a medium spring actually originally designed for the Prado (i.e. it is medium for the Prado, which is much heavier than a 4Runner). Figure 1.5" of lift on the Prado will be about 2.75" to 3" of lift on a 4Runner with a 330lb constant weight capacity.
The 891 is a heavy spring designed also for the Prado. It has a larger diameter coil, but is shorter in overall free height. However, with a rating fo 660lbs consant load, i would expect over 3" of lift on a 4Runner. I also think that it would be very firm.
//SNIP//

Sounds like the 890s would be the best candidates, but I'm shocked at how little information is available on spring and shock specs. Maybe I could call ToyTech and see if I could get some dimensions...

A jounce stop is another name for a bump stop. I work with engineers and they get uppity when I say bump stop... same thing when you say sway bar instead of anti-sway bar. The explanation they gave, to put it in perspective, is when you drive over a bump and the suspension is momentarily compressed, that's called jounce. When it springs back, that's called rebound. Hope that makes sense.

[The4kbeast]

OK, ok... it isn't so sexy. But after having an FJ, you tend to miss flooring that doesn't stain and is easy to clean up.

When I lived in the northeast, I had an xB for awhile with WeatherTech mats. They did a good job of keeping dirt, rain, and snow from soaking into the carpet - and they fit pretty well. Seeing as my driver's side floor mat was pretty ragged, I decided to order a set for the new Runner.

Here are the part numbers:
WeatherTech Floorliner Mat Kit, Black
Part #/$: 44123-1-2, $169.90
- Front Floorliners Black
- Rear Floorliner Black
- 1pc Mat Grip Kit

WeatherTech Floorliner Mat Kit, Black
Part #/$: 40175, $109.95 (2000-2002)
- 4Runner trunk mat Black

Roll that beautiful bean footage... Driver's side: Good floor coverage, good fit around perimeter. The rear lip looks odd, but if I end up putting an amp under one of the front seats I guess it will keep water from my electronics. Ran some errands tonight and didn't have problems with pedal entrapment:


Better shot of the driver's side mat & relation to the dead pedal:


Passenger side: Same good fitament... couldn't decide if I liked the mat flap under the plastic part of the dash, or overlapping it. I settled on having it underneath because it allows the mat to follow the driveshaft tunnel.



Second row mat: I really like that it is a single piece instead of three different pieces, which I've seen in some people's back seats.


Second row installed:



Just a note for any of you with a manual T4R. My xB was a manual, and I was NOT happy with the fit on the driver's side. Occasionally the clutch and gas pedal would get stuck behind the mat and peel it up. If WeatherTech had made it just a little taller, it wouldn't have been an issue. But alas, it was still an issue. I don't know if it will be an issue for you on a 4Runner, but it is something to be aware of for those of you with a 5MT T4R.

[BrianSD_42]

Hello and welcome!

That is a really clean truck for the mileage and I will be following closely.

I would like to suggest you keep about $1500 set aside for a "4Runner rainy day" fund. I say this since you have over 200k miles on it.

I am currently at 213k miles and trust me you will need a rainy day fund that is completely separate from the "build-stuff" $$$, this fund is for emergencies like head-gasket / cracked-head or transmission issues.

I've had my truck for 10 years now and the last 50k have been the most expensive. Still a great truck and runs like a charm after fixing it up through the lows. ...

[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by brianemc2_42

I would like to suggest you keep about $1500 set aside for a "4Runner rainy day" fund. I say this since you have over 200k miles on it.

I am currently at 213k miles and trust me you will need a rainy day fund that is completely separate from the "build-stuff" $$$, this fund is for emergencies like head-gasket / cracked-head or transmission issues.

I've had my truck for 10 years now and the last 50k have been the most expensive. Still a great truck and runs like a charm after fixing it up through the lows. ...

Thanks for the welcome and the heads up, Brian.

I've put together a pile of parts to service the fuel and ignition systems, as well as to fix the leaking valve cover seals... and on top of that I've got a check engine light that reared its ugly head on the way back from buying the dang thing (reminds me, I've got to pick up a Bluetooth OBD-II scanner and pick up that Torque app to pull codes). I have slow leak on the rear main seal which will also have to be looked at someday. I've also got to get the tranny, cooling, and diffs flushed/etc just so it's done.

[1srgagen]

I know him personally and to say he has attention to detail is a gross understatement.

[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by 1srgagen

I know him personally and to say he has attention to detail is a gross understatement.

So you've gone and diagnosed me with OCD now, eh? Lol

Did I forget to upload the cargo mat pic earlier?

Here's a summary of the next week or so:

[The4kbeast]

Working on the Taco whip mod. Man, these fender liners and flares are a pain to work around by the power antenna.

When I took the dash/console apart I learned something about the PO; he liked nuts. Weird.

[The4kbeast]

A few hours (and a couple of beers later), my whip mod is complete. Here's the P/N I used:

Here it is installed:


It ended up being taller than the roof itself. Well have to look to make sure I ended up getting the recommended ones.

For those that are clip impaired and attempting the whip mod, here's a picture of the clips you'll encounter on the fender splash liners x 5:


In the how to tips I've read no one ever talked about how to pop then out without breaking them. So here's what you do.... NOTE how there are four dots on the head and text on two sides. These are the two sides you'll need to pinch on to release the clip.



Start with the smallest flathead screw driver you have and switch between each text side,.using light leverage to make enough room to get a needle nose in there to pinch and remove the clip.

When you have it securely with the needle nose, gently pull the clip rocking from text side to text side. Unless the clip is trashed, sun baked, or heavily salted, it should come out.

I also finished the wiring harness for the iPhone connection and figured out a way to run the cable so I didn't have do drill through the center column like some others have done. I have a Droid, so I had just enough slack to write the in line usb hookup to where I can get to it - check out the pic. I also had to do some finishing sanding to the lower lip of the din cutout so the bottom of the stereo wouldn't catch it when it tilts out.


That is all for tonight!

[Beach4RunnerNC]

No offense, but i see a lot of people on here buying the tacoma whip antenna straight from OEM, but you can easily find these at salvage yards or pick n pulls. The threading is the same on many vehicles. I think i got mine for 5$ out the door. You also aren't limited to the all black coiled version.

Your truck looks good though. Thanks for the pics of the weather tec liners, i know a few people have been asking how they fit.

[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by Beach4RunnerNC

No offense, but i see a lot of people on here buying the tacoma whip antenna straight from OEM, but you can easily find these at salvage yards or pick n pulls. The threading is the same on many vehicles. I think i got mine for 5$ out the door. You also aren't limited to the all black coiled version.

Your truck looks good though. Thanks for the pics of the weather tec liners, i know a few people have been asking how they fit.

No offense taken. I'd really like to pick up some LX 450 or Land Cruiser wheels, so it might be good to look around for a slightly shorter antenna. Mint OEM was no big deal to me at the time. I had a pretty big order, so I got a discount.

Thanks for the compliments. The mats are cool, figured someone would be interested in them.

[1985taylor1925]

Originally Posted by The4kbeast

Nice... evidently the anti-drainback valve is only good for building oil pressure at engine starts.



Good to hear that you're a fan of the Tundra setup. Despite the increased dampening, does it still have small bump compliance? Is the compression dampening too firm? Is it too firm on paved roads? Based off of how things ride now, I'm thinking that the front needs a softer setup or it will shake my teeth out offroad.

As for the rear, I'm concerned that a 906 would be too short for some of the longer rear shocks. I helped a buddy put a lift on his '97 4Runner w/ 906's with longer rear shocks and the spring would unseat in extreme articulation situations. I did a search to see if others had a good explanation of the differences between OME static lengths... here's an explanation from Valkyrie over on TTORA.

//SNIP// from Valkyrie at TTORA
Here's the scoop:
The 906 is actually a 'medium' spring specifically designed for the 4Runner. It results in about 2" of lift.
The 890 is a medium spring actually originally designed for the Prado (i.e. it is medium for the Prado, which is much heavier than a 4Runner). Figure 1.5" of lift on the Prado will be about 2.75" to 3" of lift on a 4Runner with a 330lb constant weight capacity.
The 891 is a heavy spring designed also for the Prado. It has a larger diameter coil, but is shorter in overall free height. However, with a rating fo 660lbs consant load, i would expect over 3" of lift on a 4Runner. I also think that it would be very firm.
//SNIP//

Sounds like the 890s would be the best candidates, but I'm shocked at how little information is available on spring and shock specs. Maybe I could call ToyTech and see if I could get some dimensions...

A jounce stop is another name for a bump stop. I work with engineers and they get uppity when I say bump stop... same thing when you say sway bar instead of anti-sway bar. The explanation they gave, to put it in perspective, is when you drive over a bump and the suspension is momentarily compressed, that's called jounce. When it springs back, that's called rebound. Hope that makes sense.

I have run OEM suspension, and Performance Products coils with KYB gas shocks. So my opinion of the tundra set up is all relative to those two. I got the package deal (original toyota bilsteins with the tundra TRD coils) so obviously the shock rebound is intended specifically for the TRD spring rates. I think the ride is great. I do have a front end issue, but it's in my steering rack, not the suspension. As far as compression and rebound, I would say its perfect. The coils are soft enough to compress, and there's no bounce on the rebound despite the set up being intended for a heavier vehicle. I dont remember my OEM suspension very well, I just recall it being softer. The PP coils with KYB shocks were similar to the TRD set up, but despite being progressive the PP coils were stiffer. The TRD set up is ovbiously stiffer than OEM, but is very planted and handles well in any scenario imo. Overall I would highly prefer my TRD set up.


I dont "rock crawl" with my 4runner, so the long shocks to short coils issue isnt really a concern for me. Somewhere on the forum there's a thread floating around that lists the specs of OME coils, including spring rate and coil length. The 906s are shorter by an inch or so, and slightly stiffer. Like you said, 890s are your best bet for longer shocks. Ill find that thread and give you the link if you want it . . .

[T4R2014]

Thanks for the tip on the fender clips. Don't you just love having a bunch of brand new OEM parts ready to install?

[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by 1985taylor1925

I have run OEM suspension, and Performance Products coils with KYB gas shocks. So my opinion of the tundra set up is all relative to those two. I got the package deal (original toyota bilsteins with the tundra TRD coils) so obviously the shock rebound is intended specifically for the TRD spring rates. I think the ride is great. I do have a front end issue, but it's in my steering rack, not the suspension. As far as compression and rebound, I would say its perfect. The coils are soft enough to compress, and there's no bounce on the rebound despite the set up being intended for a heavier vehicle. I dont remember my OEM suspension very well, I just recall it being softer. The PP coils with KYB shocks were similar to the TRD set up, but despite being progressive the PP coils were stiffer. The TRD set up is ovbiously stiffer than OEM, but is very planted and handles well in any scenario imo. Overall I would highly prefer my TRD set up.

I dont "rock crawl" with my 4runner, so the long shocks to short coils issue isnt really a concern for me. Somewhere on the forum there's a thread floating around that lists the specs of OME coils, including spring rate and coil length. The 906s are shorter by an inch or so, and slightly stiffer. Like you said, 890s are your best bet for longer shocks. Ill find that thread and give you the link if you want it . . .

Sounds like we would have similar usage. So you are using the Tundra TRD Off-Road Bilstein shock/spring assembly, not the 5100? From what I've read, you're the first person to say that they weren't stiff as can be on a 4R. With as quick as the rebound is though, do you find it can be choppy on the highway at speed? I'd imagine that those springs with a Tundra 5100 would be my top choice next to a coilover with adjustable spring preload. The progressive spring would match the 5100s dampening characteristics very well.

Originally Posted by T4R2014

Thanks for the tip on the fender clips. Don't you just love having a bunch of brand new OEM parts ready to install?

NP. Can you think of any other keywords I need to add to the description in case anyone does a search if they're having trouble? Wish there was a way for all of us to maintain some of the How-Tos as a community... I followed one How-To taking apart my dash and didn't realize that the 99+ dash doesn't require the AC faceplate to be removed to get at screws - they guide was for an earlier, different MY.
LOVE having new parts, but painful having a full weekend planned with other things that don't leave time to install said parts. LOL. Actually, what's nice is working on a nice CA car again. Just moved back from New England, and at a minimum every other bolt would freeze or break off. I used my torch more than any other tool in my arsenal.

[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by 1srgagen

I know him personally and to say he has attention to detail is a gross understatement.

Met up and drove 1srgagen's '97 Ltd on Taco 5100/stock springs on 3rd 2.5" notch and OME 890 (med duty)/5100s tonight.

First off, I was pleasantly surprised with the overall feel of the setup. The ride was pretty soft and plush on road hitting our test whoops around town (no time for off-road today, so the large roller speed bumps was all we could do). The front seemed to have a higher compression dampening level and spring rate than the back. Turn in felt good still and not super floaty (he still has sway bar hooked up). I can't figure out if there is too much rebound dampening or if it was all the extra weight in the back of his rig I was feeling. But it definitely rode much smoother than my tired 200k mi old suspension.

Current thoughts: Tundra front 5100 with Tundra TRD Spring (rebound compression too high?)
Smallest LC coils (7.5 coil???) with unknown LC shocks.

Researched Fox suspension's applications for 3rd gen 4Runners tonight, couldn't find anyone on the board running these. Found some people running them on Tacoma on other forums:
2.0" Coilover run about $360-400 ea online, 0-2" lift
2.5" Front coilover run about $1.1k for the pair. One is std length 0-2" lift, another is 0-3" lift and requires an aftermarket UCA

Dream susp setup: 2.5" front coilover with UCA/OEM dimension LCA w/ plate protection, 2.0" rear shock with external resi, LC 7.5 coil with internally mounted 2.0" bump stop on rear and also mounted up front (avail 2.5, 3, 4" travel)

Actual susp setup: Stock 200k mi setup... I've got a long way to go.... : )

[1985taylor1925]

Originally Posted by The4kbeast

Sounds like we would have similar usage. So you are using the Tundra TRD Off-Road Bilstein shock/spring assembly, not the 5100? From what I've read, you're the first person to say that they weren't stiff as can be on a 4R. With as quick as the rebound is though, do you find it can be choppy on the highway at speed? I'd imagine that those springs with a Tundra 5100 would be my top choice next to a coilover with adjustable spring preload. The progressive spring would match the 5100s dampening characteristics very well.

Well, again my impressions are relative to my previous two suspension set-ups. But compared to the PP coils/KYB shocks, the TRD set up feels less choppy. Im sure I have become slightly immune to the ride as Ive been on it now for about 6 months, but I really have no complaints. I have the stock bilsteins, not the 5100s. Obviously it's stiffer than the stock suspension, both on spring compression and rebound. Many on the forum like to call that a more "sporty" ride. And if you got a set and didnt like the ride, you would have no trouble at all selling them on the forum for something softer.