[The4kbeast]

Desert Video:
Desert off roading video in the washes around Ocotillo Wells, CA, Pt 1
Desert off roading video in the washes around Ocotillo Wells, CA, Pt 2
Desert off road video of front suspension on the high speed washes around Ocotillo Wells, CA, Pt 3
Desert off roading video in the washes around Ocotillo Wells, CA, Pt 4

Mountain Video:
Mountain Ascent Off Road, Indian Truck Trail in SoCal


My goal is to acheieve a semi-factory look with a mild lift. I'm more concerned with quality of travel, as apposed to maximum lift numbers and record breaking articulation. I want a low maintenance vehicle that I can go exploring mountains and desert in.

IT NEEDS UPDATED, but here's my build list with Table of Contents:

BRAKES:
SS rear SS extended brake line
- [install]
New rear OEM shoes

ELECTRONICS:
TRS TheRetrofitSource.com Mini-D2S conversion, ballasts w/ extra wire, Phillips 4200k HIDs, white 100 mm angel eyes
- [install #1] [install #2]
JVC Double-din DVD deck with ebrake work-around and Taco whip mod
Pure white 5k interior LED lighting from SUPERBRIGHTLEDs
Knarly-bright interior LED roof lights, with rear cargo light as bright as the sun
- [install]
Chasing a CEL (Check Engine Light)

INTERIOR:
Floor mats... Yes, new floor mats from WeatherTech
Dynamat Install 1: Cargo area
Dynamat Install 2: Cargo area completed & wrap up

SUSPENSION, FRONT:
Color/Color OEM 00-02 4Runner front springs
- [Install]
Bilstein 5100 Tundra front struts on 5/5 (highest) setting ~1.5"
- [Install]
Light Racing Upper Control Arms (UCAs)
- [Install]
OEM LBJ+bolts
- [Install]
SS tapered diff drop
- [Install]
Bump stops TBD (need measurements)

SUSPENSION, BACK:
New OEM replacement 99 springs with custom upper coil spacer (1.90" lift)
- [Install] [My thoughts]
Bilstein 5100 for Chevy Silverado rear, 3/4" Rear Bilstein Bushings
- [The Plan] [Install] [My thoughts]
New bump stops
- ... Pending ...
Custom ebrake mount extension
- [Design] [Install]

TIRES ANS WHEELS:
Grey plasti-dipped LX450 wheels Stock
Hankook ATM LT265/75/R16

MOTOR/DRIVELINE:
Deck plate mod
Replacing leaky valve cover seals

IN STAGING:
Bump stops TBD (need measurements)
Yet to be purchased:
Daystar stinger bump stops F & R
-OR-
Daystar bumpstops with custom adapter plates - $75-160
-OR-
Light Racing front and rear jounce shocks

SS Adj rear panhard bar - $175 – OR- custom bar
Sliders
Roof rack
Trans cooler

HAVE TRIED LIST:
New OEM 05-06 Tundra Double Cab TRD front springs & OME 906 rear spring (2.5")
- [Install], [Why I switched]
OME 890 rear spring (3.5")
- [Install], [Why I switched]

- [Install], [Why I switched]


OTHER OPTIONS:
Manufacturer Recommended Maintenance

SUSPENSION DEVELOPMENT CORNER:
OEM FRONT Suspension Measurements
OEM REAR Suspension Measurements

Four Suspension Options
ARB Suspension Informatiom
Taco 5100/ToyTech Combo Thoughts & Susp Dreaming
Radflo and Fox Research Updates
MAJOR Bilstein Suspension Information for 3G T4R

[The4kbeast]

Details on my 4Runner purchase
So after 9 to 10 months of watching craigslist, auto trader, this site, yahoo autos, aol autos, etc, I felt that I had a good idea of what pricing was like. I had test drove and crawled under enough 4Runners to know what seals leaked, what spots rusted and showed off-road abuse the easiest. Some of the 4Runners I test drove were low mileage queens, while others were high-mileage sand rats.

After thoroughly reading the buyers guide, I knew I wanted a 99-00 SR5 Highlander or Limited with a rear locker in silver. That way the fender flares matched, and I wouldn't have to deal with two-tone paint. Later I realized that it wasn't that big of a deal, and that I would have been happy with a few other color combinations, but this was #1 on my list. I got lucky and crashed the previous owner's kids birthday party to be first to see the car, and after assessing everything it needed, here's what I bought for right around $6k:


What did I buy? What kind of shape was it in?
It had some paint blemishes and had been resprayed, but the repairs were made to the original panels and the damage was minimal.



It has 207k miles that were put on it by the original owner. He had service done at a few local Toyota dealers and had copies of all work done. A few years back, he switched over to a local mechanic (unfortunately) and that's when he stopped keeping his receipts. He gave me the guy's phone number to see if I could get copies, but I doubt he'll fill me in on what's been done lately.



So far, I've replaced the valve cover gaskets, shocks (200k mi on them!), and a new radio antenna. So far, I've changed the oil and removed the underbody engine/trans covers for detailing. I know this sounds anal, but what I love about buying from private parties is that they usually don't detail the underhood/powertrain. This allows you to check for leaks etc and see where new oil is coming in from. Looks like there was something that went on with the radiator (not milkshake, just like splashes), as well as a lot of spilled oil after oil changes. Speaking of oil changes, for gosh-sakes people, buy Toyota oil filters!! It is an anti-drainback valve and doesn't dump oil down the block when you're changing the filter. Not only did the previous owner totally overtighten their last oil filter, but they also made a mess on their block/drivetrain/skids.



It also included the monroney label, and here's all the information off of it:
Model Description: 4RUNNER SR5 4X4
Exterior color: MILLENNIUM SILVER (01C0)
Transmission type: AUTOMATIC
Interior color: GRAY (FB16)
Engine type: 5VZ 3.4L V6

ADDITIONAL VEHICLE DETAILS:
Plant of Manufacture: TMC, Japan
Body Style: SR5 4X4 with Highlander Edition Package

Base MSRP: $28,358.00
Sub-total before discount: $34,665.00
- EVP MSRP Discount -900.00
Original MSRP: $33,765.00

Standard Installed Equipment (on left side of monroney label)
MECHANICAL & PERFORMANCE

• 3.4L V6 DOHC EFI ENGINE
• 4-SPEED AUTOMATIC ECT TRANS
• 2-SPEED TRANSFER CASE/4WDEMAND
• COIL SPRING DOUBLE WISHBONE
• INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION
• 4-LINK COIL SPRING RR SUSPEN
• PWR-ASSIST RACK & PIN STEERNG
• POWER STEERING/TACHOMETER
• PWR-ASSIST VENTED FRT DISC
• BRAKES W/RR DRUMS
• FRONT & REAR STABILIZER BARS
• P225/75R15 RADIAL TIRES (5)

SAFETY

• DRIVER/PASSENGER AIR BAG (SRS)
• 4-WHEEL ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM
• DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS
• SIDE-DOOR IMPACT BEAMS
• CENTER HIGH-MOUNT STOP LAMP

COMFORT & CONVENIENCE

• FRONT CLOTH-FACED BUCKET SEATS
• SPLIT FOLDING FABRIC REAR SEAT
• DLX ETR/CST/CD W/ 4SPKRS
• PWR DOOR LOCKS & PWR RR WNDOW
• LIGHTING PACKAGE/TILT WHEEL
• DUAL FRONT & REAR CUPHOLDERS
• FR VARIBL INT & RR INT WIPERS
• ALL WEATHER GUARD EQUIP PKG
• TACH/TRIP/COOLANT TEMP GAUGES
• CENTER CONSOLE/DIGITAL CLOCK
• REMOTE HOOD/FUEL DOOR RELEASES
• DUAL SUNVISORS W/PASS VANITY
• MIRROR/FRONT MAPLIGHTS
• CRUISE CONTROL, O/H CONSOLE

EXTERIOR

• CHROME FR & RR BUMPERS/GRILLE
• DUAL COLOR-KEYED POWER HEATED
• OUTSIDE MIRRORS
• MULTI-REFLEC HALOGN HEADLAMPS
• SPRING BACK ANTENNA
• 15X7" STYLED STEEL WHEELS
• SKID PLATES/PRIVACY GLASS
• REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER

[FACTORY OPT CODE]Port/Factory Installed Equipment (on right side of monroney label):

• [CA] CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS {Factory}
• [RH] REAR HEATER {Factory} $170.00
• [SX] SPORT PACKAGE W/LOCKING DIFF: [AL] 16x7 ALLOY WHEELS, P265/70/R16 TIRES, FOGLAMPS, COLOR KEYED BUMPERS/GRILLE/OVERFENDERS, HOOD SCOOP, FRONT SPORT SEATS 2/4 WAY ADJ, HEADRESTS, 13" FRT DISC BRAKES, 4.300 LOCKING DIFF, LTHR COVERD STRG WHEEL {Factory} $1,965.00
• [SR] POWER TILT/SLIDE MOONROOF {Factory} $815
• [GI] UPGRADE VALUE PACKAGE #2: PWR WINDOWS, DR SUNVISOR W/ HOLDER, PASS SUNVISOR W/ ILLUM, K/E BACK WNDW REMOTE, CFC-FREE A/C, RR TONNEAU CVR, PREM ETR/CASS/CD W/6SPKRS & PWR DIVERS ANT, FLOOR MATS {Factory} $2,198.00
• [C7] CONVENIENCE PACKAGE INCLUDES: ROOF RACK,TOW HITCH, RR WIND DEFLECTOR & CARGO MAT {Port} $679.00
• [CF] CARPET FLOOR MATS {Port} $0.00 (unlisted)
• [GF] FULL TANK OF GAS {Dealer} Complimentary

[Jungoes]

welcome to the club,

[4-Ripcord]

Nice truck!

I may have missed it, but what are the plans for it? Just gonna keep it all stock or what?

[Hepar]

Great base! I will reserve my vote until after you've built it up a bit.

[The4kbeast]

PLANS:
It's the family hauler right now, so nothing too extreme. My definition of extreme is a long-travel race truck, so I guess that doesn't narrow things down at all to something I can plan for.

I'll cover suspension, armor, and stereo. I have a running list of maintenance items that I'll post later.
I'd like a comfortable, reliable rig to go explore and romp around in the desert and mountains with, as well as have enough travel to do general exploring. I have built my own race cars with custom fabbed suspensions, so I really am tempted to do a mid-travel suspension build that would allow me to rebuild shocks and play more with dampening and spring rates down the road. It'd be great to get into enhancing suspension geometry. That said, I don't have the budget or time for that right now, so I need to look for ways to build a lift that can be put together in stages so I can have fun now. I'd like to do something more than the basic 5100 front/rear. I don't plan on lower control arms. I am planning a suspension that will let me be a weekend warrior without knocking my teeth out, whilst allowing me to get the most dampening out of my and get the most from the little travel on the chassis. (read: NOT a mall-terrain vehicle or lift)

As for armor, it would be nice to eventually get a front bumper, sliders, and a 3/4 to full roof rack. Long term, I can say for certain that I'm not planning a full cage. So I need to account for that weight in a way that won't make the car ride like a go-cart right now, but won't make me blow through travel with the extra planned weight.

I don't want to do much with the engine... not even thinking intake or exhaust (although I've already done the deck-plate mod, and I would consider a throaty exhaust as long as it didn't drone at high speed on the highway). I looked at a supercharged 4Runner when I was truck shopping for a 4R and opted not to get into forced induction again. I've raced a turbo MR2 for the past few years in SCCA Solo 2 Autocross, and while the forced induction is great for cheap power, I had more fun in the years leading up to my MR2 when I was racing my little under-powered Mazda Miata and Toyota Starlet. Awesome suspension, ultimate traction, great brakes, and solid reliability. It's a great recipe that I hope to follow with the 4Runner.

Near term in the next few weeks I'm going to make it reliable, build a stereo for me and the mrs and pick out a suspension and install it. Also need to pick up a Ultra-gauge, Scan Gauge II, or a bluetooth obd II scanner to look into a CEL that showed up a week or so ago.

[T4R2014]

Good start. I'll keep an eye on this build. Btw, all I ever use are OEM oil filters (90915-YZZD1) but I still get oil all over the block when doing oil changes.

[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by 1srgagen

I know him personally and to say he has attention to detail is a gross understatement.

So you've gone and diagnosed me with OCD now, eh? Lol

Did I forget to upload the cargo mat pic earlier?

Here's a summary of the next week or so:

[The4kbeast]

Working on the Taco whip mod. Man, these fender liners and flares are a pain to work around by the power antenna.

When I took the dash/console apart I learned something about the PO; he liked nuts. Weird.

[The4kbeast]

A few hours (and a couple of beers later), my whip mod is complete. Here's the P/N I used:

Here it is installed:


It ended up being taller than the roof itself. Well have to look to make sure I ended up getting the recommended ones.

For those that are clip impaired and attempting the whip mod, here's a picture of the clips you'll encounter on the fender splash liners x 5:


In the how to tips I've read no one ever talked about how to pop then out without breaking them. So here's what you do.... NOTE how there are four dots on the head and text on two sides. These are the two sides you'll need to pinch on to release the clip.



Start with the smallest flathead screw driver you have and switch between each text side,.using light leverage to make enough room to get a needle nose in there to pinch and remove the clip.

When you have it securely with the needle nose, gently pull the clip rocking from text side to text side. Unless the clip is trashed, sun baked, or heavily salted, it should come out.

I also finished the wiring harness for the iPhone connection and figured out a way to run the cable so I didn't have do drill through the center column like some others have done. I have a Droid, so I had just enough slack to write the in line usb hookup to where I can get to it - check out the pic. I also had to do some finishing sanding to the lower lip of the din cutout so the bottom of the stereo wouldn't catch it when it tilts out.


That is all for tonight!

[Beach4RunnerNC]

No offense, but i see a lot of people on here buying the tacoma whip antenna straight from OEM, but you can easily find these at salvage yards or pick n pulls. The threading is the same on many vehicles. I think i got mine for 5$ out the door. You also aren't limited to the all black coiled version.

Your truck looks good though. Thanks for the pics of the weather tec liners, i know a few people have been asking how they fit.

[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by Beach4RunnerNC

No offense, but i see a lot of people on here buying the tacoma whip antenna straight from OEM, but you can easily find these at salvage yards or pick n pulls. The threading is the same on many vehicles. I think i got mine for 5$ out the door. You also aren't limited to the all black coiled version.

Your truck looks good though. Thanks for the pics of the weather tec liners, i know a few people have been asking how they fit.

No offense taken. I'd really like to pick up some LX 450 or Land Cruiser wheels, so it might be good to look around for a slightly shorter antenna. Mint OEM was no big deal to me at the time. I had a pretty big order, so I got a discount.

Thanks for the compliments. The mats are cool, figured someone would be interested in them.

[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by JadatheRottweiler

where did you order your mats from?

Had my wife order them... She says from the manufacturers site: WeatherTech.com. She probably overpaid; we wanted black mats and Amazon, etc only had tan.

[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by blizz86

not sure if you have any updates concerning the coilover options, but the guys other in the 5th gen section have NOTHING but great things to say about the radflo set. they are valved specifically for the 5th gen 4runners (im assuming 3rd as well) vs bilstein's which are .. well bilsteins

Thanks for the information on Radflo. Steve at Sanoran Steel had good things to say as well (he is a great contact for anyone wanting to get up to speed quickly on smart ways to properly do a lift, btw).

I'll have to look into Radflo's setup again and ruin the numbers. If I had to guess, it would be about $1800 once Steve gets the pricing updated on the site.

Been on the phone with Fox and Bilstein doing a bunch of research on rear shock fitment options. It's no secret that 4Runners benefit from shared geometry with the Taco up front, but the rear has been a pain. Dimensionally, the shocks are hard to find (especially with proper mounts).
- Fox had nothing for the rear that would work, and no suggestions
- Bilstein can custom valve a 5100... and at $400 front and rear, plus another $75/ea for a revalve, it seems like a good starting point.

[The4kbeast]

Originally Posted by rjaudi

The purpose of the bump stop in the Sonoran kit is to have a bump stop. The cones are useless with a lift and so are the factory bump stops. The Daystar bump stops are several inches longer than the factory bump stops.

Hey rjaudi, thanks for the response. I believe you were speaking to this email I sent out:

- Is the intent behind the installation of the Daystar Competition Style bump stops to allow for modification or removal of the factory inter-spring cone-style rear bump stops, or are they mean to work in conjuction with them? How would you describe the engagement "feel" of these bump stops compared to OEM?


The rear, even without a lift, does need attention of some sort. After talking to Steve @ SS, it sounds like the cushion bumpers in the spring often tear off. I might just figure out my dimensions and move an aftermarket bump stop to the frame. I could then saw off the last notch or two of the spring bump stop to use out as a spring retainer.