11-17-2012, 03:01 AM
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#16
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I know you've said that you think the timing belt is lined up correctly, and that's what we thought when we did mine, but we were wrong. It was off by 4 teeth. Have it checked out.
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‘14 SR5 in white
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11-17-2012, 10:05 AM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar
Weird. Possibly the plug wires were switch but that would not cause the engine to die quickly. It is similar to an ignition switch problem my buddy had on his Acura. Just thinking outside the box here.
If you have a compression tester, perform a test. It will tell you if the timing is correct. If you are good there, then it is a fuel or spark problem.
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+1 on the ignition wire. That's what happened to me. Turns out the owner before me had installed a remote starter that tapped into the ignition wire. Over time, the area where the wires crimped together separated and I must have accidentally pulled them completely loose when I was taking out my MAF for cleaning. Re-soldered the wire and the car stayed running. It might not do it right away if you've flooded the engine, which happened when I was trying to start up the car and apply gas at the onset to keep it going. Give it some time and try it again if you do have to fix the wire.
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11-17-2012, 11:32 AM
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#18
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You might have miss something/forgot something when you put everything back, If I was you I would removed everything and double check the work again to verify the install again.
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11-17-2012, 01:18 PM
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#19
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There is a ground by the diagnostic box. Won't run without it grounded.
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11-17-2012, 08:33 PM
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#20
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I am in no way questioning your skill level; I just wanted to clearly show the two different timing marks on the crank timing gear. If the belt goes on backwards the lower belt mark will be a few teeth off from the crank mark(dot in 2nd picture).
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11-17-2012, 08:46 PM
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#21
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I wonder if the OP got it running yet? I hope he posts his findings when he does.
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11-18-2012, 01:30 AM
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#22
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I had no time to work on it since last night. No closer to running yet. Tomorrow, it is my one priority. Will start trouble shooting after breakfast, not giving up till it runs.
Any suggestions are welcome, I am still baffled.
When I trace my gremlin, i will be sure to post it.
Regards the crank timing mark, yes, I used the pink tooth for timing, although initially I was very confused by the dot. Had to rub dust off the teeth before I could see the pink tooth.
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11-18-2012, 01:38 AM
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#23
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When lining up the cam marks with the new timing belt it is possible that you had mistaken left with right. Left to right is looking from drivers seat forward.
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11-18-2012, 01:39 PM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iowajosh
There is a ground by the diagnostic box. Won't run without it grounded.
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where is the diagnostic box? Does it have another name? My searches yeilded nothing.
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11-18-2012, 02:14 PM
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#25
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I discovered these two caps loose right below the fuse/relay box. They appear to be caps for the two tubes with red and blue connectors. What are they for? Could they be my gremlin?
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11-18-2012, 02:56 PM
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#26
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symptom update, after a few more attempted starts, the engine now no longer starts up. It cranks easily, but no fire. This makes me lean towards a fuel problem. Any new ideas?
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11-18-2012, 03:49 PM
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#27
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It is sometimes hard as heck to diagnose a problem without being there. This seems to be one of those times.
Before removing the old belt, all the marks for the cam and crank were lined up with their respective marks correct? When taking off the cam and crank gears to replace the seals, did you move rotate or move either cam(s) or crank?
The ground strap is right below the diagnostic, screwed onto the intake manifold, almost right above the oil dipstick.
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11-18-2012, 04:48 PM
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#28
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i see the ground screw now, below the diagnosis port. nothing wrong there.
before removing the t-belt, crank and cam timing marks were lined up.
as i removed the right cam gear, the cam spun. I completed the rotation to get it back into position. left cam and crank did not move during gear removal/replacement.
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11-18-2012, 05:39 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1blink
as i removed the right cam gear, the cam spun. I completed the rotation to get it back into position.
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The cams rotate at half of the crankshaft speed. You need to verify the cam timing, in relation to the crank.
Last edited by 02SE; 11-18-2012 at 05:46 PM.
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11-18-2012, 08:08 PM
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#30
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You may be 180 degrees out of time thanks to the physical rotation of the cam. It might be as easy as rotating that cam one revolution forward. Since I have never had to manually time this engine, I cannot really say, and don't want to give bad advice.
I would think that you could see if both cams in both heads were in time but the valve covers would have to come off. Here is a link for such:
TB and HG photo timeline.
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