Man!

I am literally following your foot steps, I live in the DC Area too, seems like your issue was identical to mine (Mine is a Passenger side not as the title of the Thread says! I guess it is exactly as you said the Muffler heat does a good job rusting this side, The driver side joint near the Gas Tank looks solid and does not have any of this awful corrosion!), funny enough this morning, I was just looking at this Kit as a solution and the same Place in Chantilly "ADVANCED AUTOMOTIVE" for installation ...

It has been an expensive month for me already, I did some repairs due to EVAP code, dropped the Tank and installed new check valve, hoses and Canister and finally my EVAP problem is gone and the Truck gave me System ready after 400 Miles of driving around. and luckily enough today, I went to another inspection station and I was able to get it inspected for Safety and Emission, I guess I got really lucky today and the guy did not see it because as you already know it is hidden behind the Muffler so you really need to look very close to notice it, so the pressure is off for at least a year for me at this point, but I want to fix it eventually so I can have a peace of mind.


So I am looking at about 1200.00 to get it done I suppose? I guess I can call these guys and go to the shop for an official quote now that I have a good reference price point from you!

But honestly, this is a little bit on the high side for me , is there any possibly cheaper solution that will make me pass the next year inspection with confidence? Thanks so much for sharing your experience!

You can read my build thread as I show how to rebuld the frames without the auto rust panels.

Your arch were the control arm brackets are will be rotted out.

It's best to get some good metal on the inside or your frame at that spot. Weld it into place then weld it to the bracket.

I use 1/8 steel in my fixes. As these frames rust from the inside out.

Your inner frame is slightly thinner then the outer C. So on your control arm brackets will need to be reinforced on both sides. If you want to keep that bracket in place.





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My Build and Repair thread shows welding that LCR repair sleeve on the drivers side.

I did it myself.


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So the actual install labor was only $912 at that shop. The part was about $220 or so delivered. I had searched around for someone to do a simple patch weld on the frame itself but no shop was willing to do it. I assume they saw it as a liability issue. I also took it to a dealer (Jack Taylor) who took a look at the frame rot and rated the vehicle as "unsafe to drive." And I don't think my frame rot was anywhere near as bad as yours is.

IMO, I wouldn't wait a year to get yours fixed. It could be a serious safety hazard on the Beltway or the interstates.

You can plate the outside if you know how to weld. Those brackets are only welded in a few spots and you can see by looking at it.

The issue is that if you see a hole above the control arm bracket. The entire bottom of the frame is most likely gone.

This is why the made these kits.

However, a crap fix of a gob patch isnt going to fix this.

That control arm bracket is about ready to come off unless its repaired.

This is why it didnt pass. The safety inspection fail because the frame is no longer safe until its repaired..






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At that point I'd buy a cheap welder and do it myself!

Exactly Devbot. The only way to eliminate that cost is to do it yourself.

If a person cant weld. Then they are going to have to pay someone to weld it for them.

Or sale the rig or junk it. That's about the only options unless the owner does a frame swap that's about it.

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If you are capable of dropping the tank I’m sure you can get yourself a cheap welder and put enough booger welds on there to pass inspection. Passenger side isn’t that hard if you can get the exhaust off, easy to get to

Otherwise I’d give you like $100 for it, I’ll come get it tomorrow

Here is the test fit. Copied from my thread.

If you never welded with a mig before buying a cheep welder and doing it yourself is not what I would do on a critical suspension component.

I’ve seen people weld their roll cage with a cheep welder and the welds looked great but the weld had no penetration. And we ripped the cage apart with our hands.

My MillerMatic 130a on heat 4 was enough. I used solid core and shield gas.


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Thank you guys for all your input, I stumbled on a You Tube Clip for a shop doing exactly that fix (How to easily Repair your 4runners's rusted Frame yourself - YouTube)
and quoting about 300ish dollars (in the comments below the clip),
That sounds like a good option for me and it looks like it is a top quality job well done. The guy is located in Virginia waiting for him to reply so I can get it done.
Does anyone has a decent shop around DC Area who I can go to?
I don't mind driving 1-2 hours each way to get it done.

It terms of safety concern, I totally understand and I will not be driving until I fix it for sure.

Nice try, but I am not giving up this easy!
Dropping Tank, changing timing belts and Water Pumps is one thing, welding is a totally different ball game for me!
First and last time I used a welder was to weld my broken Grill door with a 100 dollar welder from Lowes,
Not my Cup of tea!

That looks wonderful! Nice Job!

That is the premade repair sleeve.


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