I figure that for an hour or two (or three ) of hard work and a few bucks, it can't hurt to do it, even if the difference isn't that big, though with the symptoms I have, I'm fairly sure it's at least needing replacement.

In the meantime, I went outside to have a look. The boot's on there right now and I just don't feel like futzing around with taking it off; it'll come off anyways in a few days. In any event, however, I noticed that the big cap (concave hex shape in the middle) shown below to the right of the yellow circled area (thanks to the OP over at TTORA) is seeping.



As I've got the new parts on order I'm not too worried about it; however, should that be telling me anything different than what I already know (which is that I should replace the parts)? I did do tons of research on this and read through all the threads...which is part of why I'm asking - info overload, I suppose. LOL

In the meantime...I'm all excited. Tomorrow the Tundra brake swap occurs; then in a few days the steering guide replacement will occur, followed closely by 4 Memphis Audio speakers and my 10" Kenwood sub.

Not all at once now. ;)

And for proof that I actually DID search....

I found this thread:

Steering rack leaking from the guide bolt?

Which also got no responses. LOL Doing further searches on this has returned everything from "let that sucker leak" to "replace the whole darn steering rack." Still doesn't exactly tell me specifically WHAT it means if there's a very slow (and I mean SLOW - more like seepage) leak.

I can tell you that there are no seals in there once the cap comes off. It's just the threads of the cap/rack that seal up that orifice.

I'm not sure there's much you could do besides replacing the cap.. maybe add some silicone sealant or teflon tape to the threads?

EDIT: I think I should clarify in that when I say there are no seals in there, I mean there are no seals associated with the cap... However if you are getting a slow leak from there, it probably indicates that the seals on the rack piston (the part circled in yellow) are leaking, and that fluid is making its way further onward and out of the rack guide cap.

Chances are when you pull your boot you'll find some fluid in the boot as well.

I figured I'd do that. *nod*

Well, and I guess that's my question - is that indicative of a situation that I need to fix? Or is it even worth fixing?

When I replaced all the front end parts on my '97 I had fluid in BOTH of the steering rack boots.

I put it all back together and forgot about it. IMO, unless the rack is belching fluid when you turn the wheel (which it will when the seals really let go), or the reservior is going dry (which you will know about when the pump starts moaning and groaning as you back out of a parking spot), then forget about it.

The seals in the steering rack on my Supra let go once and every time I turned the wheel to the side that was leaking, it would squirt out a big pool of fluid. What will happen is it will slowly build up inside the boot until it's full, then one day you'll turn the wheel and the fluid pressure inside the boot will cause it to rupture. Then you'll notice the "squirting".

Ah; in that case, this isn't even enough to worry about. It's not moaning/groaning, and the seepage may have been there for a long time for all I know.

In any event, like I said, brakes go on tomorrow; I'd do them myself, but considering I'm having them installed for $40/hour and the guys usually UNDERcharge where I work, AND are uber-reliable and honest, it's worth it to me. I can also have them check that piston (just for giggles) as well as the rear driveline to see if I need a replacement U-joint, as I've read that the symptoms I've had are possibly indicative of that as well.

Thanks for the responses.

I don't think the hex socket cap is seeping. Underneath that cap is hollow and not a fluid chamber. If it were leaking it would be wet at the boots where the seals are. Look up at the valve cover gaskets for your leak. A little pipe thread sealant should keep water out once you button it up. Honestly it's a 30 minute job. Loosen the jamb nut, remove the cap, pull out the guide and spring. Put some grease on the new guide, drop it in, dab some grease on the cap to hold the spring, screw on the cap and tighten until it bottoms out, back it off 15-20 degrees and snug up the jamb nut. Super easy.

follow (b) and (c)

Actually, you may be right on, considering the fact that I KNOW my valve cover seals are leaking (and therefore, the reason why they're on order). Good call.