to install a front diff? I have a replacement diff, so there wouldn't be any cost for parts, just labor. I got under my Runner today and tried to disconnect the front drive shaft, but the nuts & bolts wouldn't budge. I sprayed brake cleaner to get the crud out of the way, then sprayed a ton of PB blaster and still the only movement was the nuts beginning to round off. I quit while they were still good, so a shop with better tools and maybe a lift should be able to do it no problem. Just trying to get some thoughts so I can gauge whether or not they try to screw me over on price.

I just don't want to go too far and not even be able to get the old one out.
Also, will I have any problems driving in 2WD if my front diff is grenaded without any oil in it?

probably around 2-5hours labor

Replace Front Axle
Complete Assembly Without Transfer Of Parts
With A.D.D. 6.8
This is from the FSM/Alldata - depending on your shops labor rate the price will vary.

A normal rate for a dealership is about 100 per hour, up to even 120 depending on the area. So figure between 680 and 850 labor.

That's a pretty exact estimate, lol.

6-8 hours sounds a bit excessive. I know Its more complicated than the rear but I'd have guessed 3-5 for a shop to do it. I'll have to call around and get some estimates.

Anyone have an answer about driving in 2WD with the front diff grenaded w/no oil? Problems with that or does it matter since the front is getting
replaced anyway? It shouldn't matter right since it'll be in Rear Wheel Drive?

Well that's what any professional shop/dealership would want to charge, unless you find a mom and pop shop to do it.

Alldata is the industry standard for labor guides, there are others, but Alldata has been used by every shop I have ever worked in.

what does alldata show for a oilpan replacement?
i got quoted 5.5hr on that

That's in the ballpark. Alldata says 5.2 so that's pretty close.

I guess that depend on how big your grenade was. I knocked a few teeth from my spider gears and was able to drive off the trail and another 40mi.

You would still engage the diff while turning. So might risk damaging the axle housing if it sounds like rocks in a food processor.

Couldn't you just use a dremel and cut the bolts/nuts off the driveshaft. I am probably going to have to do swap my differentials soon due to regear from the elocker swap.

I probably could, but the reason for going to the shop would be to keep the same hardware, instead of stripping/cutting them and having to order new ones (no one in town seems to have them). That and I don't have a dremel. All I have are hand-tools, although this may give me a legitimate reason to buy a new tool...Hopefully the PB blaster works overnight and they come off tomorrow.

Keep spraying it with the blaster every chance you get for several days, It will start to work over time. Heating the bolts can help but will also change their temper so they might need replacing after anyways. Good luck! give it one last try before giving in!

If you are just having them drop the old diff and replace it with the new one it shouldn't be any more than $250-$300 in labor. Keep in mind that you will need gear oil so it will be closer to $300-$350 if they provide the gear oil.

When I regeared to 4.88's I bought completely assembled differentials. The rear was easy to do myself but I didn't have the proper tools/space to do the front so I took it to a local offroad shop. They charged me a total of $225 for the job (I supplied my own gear oil).

Someone that knew what they were doing could probably get this done in 2 hours with no set backs. But how many times does that happen? I feel ridiculous even mentioning no set backs so I'd say atleast figure in 4 hours but probably closer to 6. Most shops around here are about $60 an hour.

Well I think I've decided against taking it to a shop since I'd have to pay a tow truck to take it there. Anyone have any tips on getting the nuts off??? I tried again today, and the only thing happening is the nuts showing signs of rounding. Sprayed more PB blaster, so its soaking now...Is there a way to keep the DS from spinning while torquing the nuts, other than just using a box wrench on the bolt head? I feel like that would be a huge help.

FYI I've using a socket extended about an extra foot on the nut, with a box wrench on the bolt head.