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Old 02-04-2013, 10:47 PM #1
Next4runner Next4runner is offline
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VIP RS3000-there is not a thread like this one...

I have searched, for days, about THIS. I have the RS VIP3000 installed on my 1997 TR4 Limited. I got the truck about a two weeks ago with no key fobs. Thus began my quest to understand the intricacies of the VIP3000.

I ordered aftermarket fobs, FFC BAB237131-022, and proceeded to hit the green button under the drivers seat to program everything. No good.

The indicator light (on your dash or in the center console--mine's in the center console) for the system is not blinking and has not been since I bought the truck. I pulled the dash to check the wiring, all seems intact, including the inline fuse.

I want to use my voltmeter to check to see if the ECU is getting power, but can't find a decent wiring diagram to save my life. If you know where I can find one for the 3000, not the 3200 please let me know. Or if the wiring is the same for both, let me know and I will go to town with the 3200 wiring list I found.

How should I go about troubleshooting this? The only non-factory items in the truck seem to be radio and the K&N air filter. I'm the third owner and this thing was dealer maintained... even the belts are toyota brand.

Any and all advice is welcome. Thanks!

Last edited by Next4runner; 02-04-2013 at 10:54 PM.
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:49 AM #2
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:25 AM #3
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Wink

Do I have this right?

You bought a truck. Then realized it has a viper alarm but no key fobs of any kind, then bought Toyota key fobs, then couldn't get them to work.

Question: are you sure the viper kit uses the Toyota key Fobs; don't they have custom clickers?

Question: did you do an advanced search using the method mentioned in MY search thread (see my SIG)?

2cents ..... I feel sorry for everyone where the previous owner installed an aftermarket alarm or a remove start. Those devices USUALLY cause a lot of electrical problems.

I suggest:
* you cut the aftermarket alarm out if you can
* Try to get the Toyota key fob to activate the door locks at least
* Buy a Truck-Club
* Setup a fuel cutoff kill switch somewhere in your truck
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:35 AM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianemc2_42 View Post
Do I have this right?

You bought a truck. Then realized it has a viper alarm but no key fobs of any kind, then bought Toyota key fobs, then couldn't get them to work.

Question: are you sure the viper kit uses the Toyota key Fobs; don't they have custom clickers?

Question: did you do an advanced search using the method mentioned in MY search thread (see my SIG)?

2cents ..... I feel sorry for everyone where the previous owner installed an aftermarket alarm or a remove start. Those devices USUALLY cause a lot of electrical problems.

I suggest:
* you cut the aftermarket alarm out if you can
* Try to get the Toyota key fob to activate the door locks at least
* Buy a Truck-Club
* Setup a fuel cutoff kill switch somewhere in your truck
Brian, Thanks for the reply. The Toyota installed alarms on 3rd gens are called VIP RS3000 alarms--these use a toyota fob (black or gray depending on year and FCC frequency) and were typically installed under the drivers seat at either the port or by the dealers. They are not affiliated with Viper.

I am hoping that I can find a wiring diagram and discover if the issue is with the alarm ECU, or simply that someone cut the power to the alarm. Right now The LED indicator light is not blinking, and I am trying to ascertain which wires (30-40 of them running to the ECU) carry the 12V to the alarm.

[EDIT] Your search link may yield some fruit. I will certainly post if I find anything of use. Thanks.

Last edited by Next4runner; 02-05-2013 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:38 AM #5
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Check this out....Toyo VIP RS3000 Security system Trouble
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:39 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KSWAY View Post
Already referenced that one, but thanks. I went ahead and ordered a new ECU for the alarm. It was only $32 on Ebay. I will see if that makes a difference and report back in a few days. If anyone finds a wiring diagram in the mean time I would love to see one.

This is the best I can find as of now, but it doesn't cover all that runs to the ECU.

2 VOLT CONSTANT WHITE (+) and WHITE/RED (+) IGNITON SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER GREEN/BLACK (+) or BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITON SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BLUE/RED (+) IGNITON SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE YELLOW/RED (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) RED/WHITE (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) GREEN (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, HARNESS TO REAR OF VEHICLE
POWER LOCK BROWN/WHITE (Negative (-)) @ PLUG BELOW FUSEBOX, See NOTE *1
POWER UNLOCK GREEN/YELLOW and BLUE/YELLOW (Negative (-)) Use both, See NOTE *2 @ PLUG BELOW FUSEBOX, See NOTE *1
DOOR TRIGGER LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) See NOTE *4
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #R30-H Relay
TRUNK RELEASE N/A
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN GREEN/RED (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
TACH BLACK (-) @ DIAGNOSTIC PLUG, See NOTE *3
WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A
BRAKE GREEN/WHITE (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
FACTORY ALARM DISARM DISARMS with KEYSENSE wire IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS



I am really curious which wire carries the 12v power. I may spend my Saturday playing with the spaghetti of wires and trying to find out what's up. If I do, I will document it as best I can.

Thanks,
B
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:03 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Next4runner View Post
Already referenced that one, but thanks. I went ahead and ordered a new ECU for the alarm. It was only $32 on Ebay. I will see if that makes a difference and report back in a few days. If anyone finds a wiring diagram in the mean time I would love to see one.

This is the best I can find as of now, but it doesn't cover all that runs to the ECU.

2 VOLT CONSTANT WHITE (+) and WHITE/RED (+) IGNITON SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER GREEN/BLACK (+) or BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITON SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BLUE/RED (+) IGNITON SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE YELLOW/RED (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) RED/WHITE (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) GREEN (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, HARNESS TO REAR OF VEHICLE
POWER LOCK BROWN/WHITE (Negative (-)) @ PLUG BELOW FUSEBOX, See NOTE *1
POWER UNLOCK GREEN/YELLOW and BLUE/YELLOW (Negative (-)) Use both, See NOTE *2 @ PLUG BELOW FUSEBOX, See NOTE *1
DOOR TRIGGER LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) See NOTE *4
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #R30-H Relay
TRUNK RELEASE N/A
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN GREEN/RED (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
TACH BLACK (-) @ DIAGNOSTIC PLUG, See NOTE *3
WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A
BRAKE GREEN/WHITE (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
FACTORY ALARM DISARM DISARMS with KEYSENSE wire IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS



I am really curious which wire carries the 12v power. I may spend my Saturday playing with the spaghetti of wires and trying to find out what's up. If I do, I will document it as best I can.

Thanks,
B
I'm just curious if you were able to fix this, or what info you found.
I'm in the same situation. 97 4Runner purchased 3 weeks ago, no keyless fob. I purchased used fob (FFC BAB237131-022), it won't program, light on center won't light up. Today, randomly, the alarm went off, marker lights on, horn blazing. The alarm wouldn't turn off with the ignition switch, so I pulled the fuse for the horn to stop the noise. I finally unplugged the box under the seat which turned it off. I thought maybe, Hey, maybe the keyless will work now! But no dice. Just looking for more info now, and came across this thread.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:11 PM #8
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Just as a note and im not sure if the 5vz ecu is the same but on all 3 toyota mr2 ecus i have messed with (5sfe, 3sge & 3sgte) if you remove the cover plate, all the pins are labeled on the circuit board.
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:11 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mightybrick View Post
I'm just curious if you were able to fix this, or what info you found.
I'm in the same situation. 97 4Runner purchased 3 weeks ago, no keyless fob. I purchased used fob (FFC BAB237131-022), it won't program, light on center won't light up. Today, randomly, the alarm went off, marker lights on, horn blazing. The alarm wouldn't turn off with the ignition switch, so I pulled the fuse for the horn to stop the noise. I finally unplugged the box under the seat which turned it off. I thought maybe, Hey, maybe the keyless will work now! But no dice. Just looking for more info now, and came across this thread.
Hey MightyBrick,

I finally bought a new ECU with the same numbers (out of a Camry, I think) on ebay for about $30-$40 bucks. I combined that with a no-name brand remote and it's been good ever since. I was killing myself chasing wires and volts and thought that the ECU price was worth my time and hassle. It proved that the old one was fried and wires were good.

I recommend buying a new ecu, plugging it in, and going through the program process. If you have the same issues then you can start chasing wires and sell the extra ECU once you get it running.
All the best!
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:22 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Next4runner View Post
Hey MightyBrick,

I finally bought a new ECU with the same numbers (out of a Camry, I think) on ebay for about $30-$40 bucks. I combined that with a no-name brand remote and it's been good ever since. I was killing myself chasing wires and volts and thought that the ECU price was worth my time and hassle. It proved that the old one was fried and wires were good.

I recommend buying a new ecu, plugging it in, and going through the program process. If you have the same issues then you can start chasing wires and sell the extra ECU once you get it running.
All the best!
Thanks! I'll give that a shot.
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Old 01-15-2014, 03:59 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Next4runner View Post
Hey MightyBrick,

I finally bought a new ECU with the same numbers (out of a Camry, I think) on ebay for about $30-$40 bucks. I combined that with a no-name brand remote and it's been good ever since. I was killing myself chasing wires and volts and thought that the ECU price was worth my time and hassle. It proved that the old one was fried and wires were good.

What procedure did you follow to program the remote?
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Old 01-28-2016, 05:19 PM #12
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Keyless Remote Success (mostly)...

I just thought I'd post my own experience with the ol' RS3000. Maybe it will help some others trying to determine whether or not they potentially have a keyless system installed.

I have a 1997 T4R that I purchased 7 years ago. It came with no keyless remotes, but I had always noticed the security light in the console area right by the back window button. Just recently, after reading various threads on the forums, I decided to call up the local Toyota dealership and had them look up my VIN. Their answer was "most likely no dealer keyless system was installed". I then called up the dealership I originally purchased the vehicle from. They, too, said "it does not appear a keyless remote system was installed", even after I mentioned the RS3000 box under my driver's seat and the piezo chirper in the engine bay.

After pushing the little green button on the side of the RS3000 unit and seeing the security light turn on, I figured to go ahead and try out a remote (two button black), which I ordered from replacemyremote.com.

When I got the remote, I tried pairing it and, though it did seem to cause something to happen with the lights and horn briefly, the vehicle wouldn't respond to any subsequent button presses. I decided to "clear all remotes" from the ECU and then proceeded to redo the pairing--HUZZAH! Now I had a two button remote that could unlock and lock all doors, but only with the top button.

Here's where it gets a little weird (and might be useful to others)...

My remote has two buttons, but the bottom button seems to serve no purpose. I contacted the company I purchased the remote from about this and they suggested I swap it out for a replacement. As I was about to mail the package, I noticed the address was about 30 minutes away, so after emailing with them, I decided to drive down in person. Turns out, this was a good idea. They gave me a second remote to try, but I was unable to get any response from my 4Runner with it. As I waited for them to get me a third remote to try, I was googling about the RS3000 system and ran across a site that suggested only the top button on the remote is supposed to work. The third remote they gave failed to elicit any response from my 4Runner as well. They offered a refund, but I decided I was happy just to have a working remote, so they gave me the original back and it paired with no problem.

So now I have a remote. Apparently it sets a alarm that I never knew I had. When your vehicle is locked via the remote, it must be unlocked via the remote or else the alarm will go off. I'd rather just turn the whole alarm function off, but the Valet mode setting does not seem to hold for very long (my wife learned this early one morning). I need to dig up an old thread where someone says he just cut the wires that cause the alarm to trigger and make that modification. (EDIT: found it) Additional EDIT: Made this wire-cut modification and had no luck. Alarm will still go off if the 4Runner is locked with the remote and unlocked with the key. Also, as mentioned in subsequent posts by others, my chirper goes through strange periods of sounding normal, not sounding at all, sounding like it's dying, etc. Also, the 4Runner does not always respond to the button press. Sometimes it takes a few mashes before anything happens.

The moral of the story is that regardless of what the dealership says, and even if a remote doesn't seem to work for you initially, you might still have keyless remote potential. If the components are there (chiefly, the RS3000), you should be set. And if one remote doesn't work, another might.

Last edited by stickywicket; 10-12-2016 at 06:05 PM. Reason: Update
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:39 PM #13
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VIP RS3000-there is not a thread like this one...-image-jpgIn my experience with the rs3000 was that i coulnt get the doors to work and i did the program intructions to set up the new key fob and nothing happend it would go to the red light on the center consul to blink and that was it. My problem was on the harness that connect to the power doors they were unplug im talking about the blue connectors that connect to the door switch and as soon as i plug those in the control starter to work normally.

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Old 06-10-2016, 01:26 AM #14
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Sticky- here's a link that has a link I found for the RS3000 manual that details the programming use of the second button:
4Runners.org - How to Reprogram a RS3000 Remote
I just bought a 98 4Runner with an RS3000 under the seat. First fob from ebay doesn't work; I'm on the search for the right one. I'm totally confused...black or gray? Most say black, but I see posts from people who say theirs is gray and works?
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Old 06-10-2016, 01:27 AM #15
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Sticky- here's a link that has a link I found for the RS3000 manual that details the programming use of the second button:
4Runners.org - How to Reprogram a RS3000 Remote
I just bought a 98 4Runner with an RS3000 under the seat. First fob from ebay doesn't work; I'm on the search for the right one. I'm totally confused...black or gray? Most say black, but I see posts from people who say theirs is gray and works?
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