Acid core is for very rough soldering, neither for plumbing or electrical. Rosin core is typical for both plumbing and electrical, but plumbing and electrical fluxes are very different. Rosin is just the carrier for the various acids and other de-oxidizers that the flux may use. The big difference between the different fluxes is the amount of acid in them, and how completely the acid burns of during reflow. Leave too much acid and it can continue to eat away at your base metals, and remain conductive.

As far as the order I specified, you want to apply the flux first to the copper because you should heat it up to activate the acids that will strip the oxidation off the copper, then apply the solder, though you can do both at the same time with wire core solder.

You should crimp first because the solder is not meant to carry the force, you want the mechanical force going through copper only. Plus, the tight fit of crimped copper improves the shear loading of the soldered joint. If you solder first, then when you crimp you are just compressing the solder a bit, and actually weakening the joint.

40/60 solder is not for electronics, it's for mechanical joints. 60/40 is very common for electrical applications.

Don't worry about the flux if you buy proper electrical flux-core solder wire. I don't know how good NAPA solder and flux is, but it is probably fine for this, though I would probably go to radio shack or something like that as it will without a doubt be designed for electrical applications.

You made me check my tool box. Yep, my plumbing solder is solid wire, with no core. I also have a roll of acid core with lead, but that gets used on non-plumbing metal stuff.

I'm sure you are right on the crimp. If solder can penetrate a slip-on tube fitting (often very tight), it will have no trouble flowing into an already crimped copper connector around the wire strands. So that would be the better way to do it.

Durk, Nelson... good info guys, thanks. Soldering is almost as technical as welding once you really dig into it. I'll definitely have this conversation in mind when I go shopping for solder next time.

Hey BFAD, if your looking at a possible alternator upgrade you Gould look at the 200A supra alternators. About 150 to 200 bucks. My buddy has one in his Tacoma and the thing never has power issues. Just an idea bud and there is very little modification to get it to fit

Do you have a link or more info on this? I didn't know the Supra alt was a fit.

Here is a link to a thread about them on supras. I will post up some pictures of my buddies once I make it up to Idaho again. The supplier they are talking about is Eagle Auto Electric. They are custom made here in the US.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...ric-Alternator

BFAD, Durk, Nelson, LC,

You guys guys are always on the money. I'm glad you clarified for Doc2012 because I was wondering about doing a full replacement or just adding the addition wires except for #5 batt to chassis. It is clear that leaving the stock wiring mostly in place will be best for my needs.

Yes I definitely will post pictures. I will also be installing an additional fuse box for my electronics. Right now the wiring is a nightmare.

The only thing I'm missing is the breaker and plastic tubing. NAPA here I come.

Excellent write-up as usual BFAD. This is something I definitely want to do in the future.

I only wonder how much of your performance upgrade was due to the new battery, and how much was due to the wiring upgrade?

Thanks for the tip/idea. That's about the same cost as the CS144 upgrade, so I'll definitely check into those.

No matter how much detail I put into a write-up I still manage to leave a little something out. Good to hear that got you guys sorted out. I think that leaving the stock stuff in place (except #5) is really just the safest/efficient way to do it unless you have a real reason to replace it all.

If you have a Harbor Freight near you, go buy the plastic tubing there... they sell it at about 25% of the cost that everyone else does and it's the same stuff. I make sure to keep stock on hand for all my wiring projects. I'll be looking forward to your pics.

Thanks for the feedback, Bandit! I was asked the same question by Brian when I originally posted this in my build thread, so I did a cut/paste/update on my reply below:

The vehicle's electrical system is like a water system for a house that is supplied by a well.

The alternator = your well pump, it is the source

The battery = your pressure tank, it stores the water and maintains pressure for a constant flow, provides a reserve for large, immediate demands.

The wiring = your pipes... the bigger the pipes, the more flow, up to the capacity of the pump.

So basically, I improved 2 of the 3. The reason I didn't do the alternator is because I don't have a large CONSTANT drains... only large TEMPORARY drains (i.e. winch, IPF's). When I hit the switch on the winch, using the water analogy, it's like trying to fill as swimming pool (the winch can draw up to 400A)... and now I've got a MUCH better/bigger pressure tank and a fire hose, rather than a garden hose, to try and meet that demand.

The only problem I may run into is that if I draw down the battery too much, the alternator may have a hard time re-charging it quickly and/or keeping up with the winch on it's own. Considering the amount of winching I plan on doing I don't think I'll run into that problem, but if I do, the CS-144 is only a $150 upgrade, and they actually sell an adapter harness for the upgrade so you don't have to hack up your stock alternator wiring harness (Link to adapter harness > Part # W1232 Alternator Wiring Harness Adapter. converts CS130 or CS144 4 pin Plug to Toyotal Oval Style Alternator Plug).

As far as the difference goes, I'd say 90% is the battery, and 10% is the new cables.

Since none of the local auto parts stores seem to sell a decent 100-120 AMP circuit breaker for around $30, I decided to order one on Amazon.

While I cringed at the $45 spent, I really want to protect against any possible engine fires and this definitely seems like a good way. It should arrive by this Saturday, just in time for my upgrade

I also bought Les Mis for $23 (which I haven't seen yet) but that is way off topic.


Purchased (pic below)
BLUE SEA 7188 120 AMP CIRCUIT BREAKER SURFACE MT 285 SERIES

Attached Images

 

This is the solder i used on my wire connections. I made the wires before thjis forum was started and mentioned different kinds of solder wire and I found this on in my garage and used it.. Do I need to redo the wires with different solder before installing them?

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...e1ae1f6454.pdf

No, you don't have to redo it, but keep it in mind in case the things you soldered in stop working, you might have a failed solder joint.

You should e good with that honestly. Btw something to keep in mind when soldering. Both pieces I metal should be heated wen soldering. Best connection will be achieved this way as well. When in doubt just us 60/40. You will be fine with that.

It is perfectly good solder, and probably stronger/harder than the stuff with lead it in it. The lead is preferred on electric work because it has a lower melting point, so there is less possibility of damage to surrounding parts when it is used. If that didn't happen, no need to worry about no lead. The other issue is that is has no flux core (and I assume you didn't use any paste flux either) so it may not have been able to flow into all the nooks and crannies among the wire strands. I agree with Matt (NelsonMD), it is not worth redoing and I bet you are probably fine. Since you are just filling a (tiny) cup with these crimp connectors, gravity is on your side and gravity is a powerful friend. Flux will make solder defy gravity (frequently required in the plumbing repairs I have done--it still amazes me that it works to sweat copper pipe joints upside down.)