Originally Posted by BrianSD_42

Nate, has your 4Runner burned to ground yet? Just kidding but I hope you taped up that positive to positive connection.

Originally Posted by BrianSD_42

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Originally Posted by BigFishAllDay

Wire #6 continues up the fender well as a single wire, and is routed to its destination at the passenger side fender, where it is secured with a bolt to create the second of the "Big 3" connections, the "Engine Block (Alternator) Ground > Chassis Ground" connection. This provides a second ground path between the Alternator/Engine Block grounds and the vehicle's chassis, WITHOUT forcing the ground current to travel through the TINY stock Wire #5.

Originally Posted by BigFishAllDay

I then hooked up two of the Big 3 wires at the alternator side. The NEW Engine to Chassis ground (Wire #6) can be connected anywhere on the engine block to anywhere on the vehicle's chassis. Since the alternator case is the ultimate grounding point of the entire electrical system, I decided to hook up right to the alternator mounting bracket where I would be electrically closest to the alternator case. You can see the connection to the alternator mounting bracket at left (Wire #6, also notice the bent terminal, which I had to do to keep the wiring out of the path of the alternator drive belt),

The second connection was at the (+) Charging Post on the alternator. You can see the connection to the alternator charging post at center (Wire #8). The wires have been labeled according to the initial diagram at the top of the write-up.

Also, you can observe in the picture how the Alternator charging post now has TWO wires connected two it - Wire #8 AND Wire #3, as labeled in the photo.



Topside, near the battery, things look like so:

Wire #8 continues up the fender well, where it feeds into a 120A circuit breaker. On the other side of the circuit breaker, Wire #8 continues on to connect to the (+) battery terminal. This completes the first of the "Big 3" connections, the "Alternator Positive to Battery Positive" connection. This provides an alternate path for the Alternator to send a charging current to the battery. The new path is again, made of 4ga. wiring, which has a current capacity of 150A. I chose to put a circuit breaker on this path for the same reason I choose to fuse all of my power connections for aftermarket electronics.... safety and fire prevention.

Wire #6 continues up the fenderwell as a single wire, and is routed to it's destination at the driver side fender, where it is secured with a bolt to create the second of the "Big 3" connections, the "Engine Block (Alternator) Ground > Chassis Ground" connection. This provides a second ground path between the Alternator/Engine Block grounds and the vehicle's chassis, WITHOUT forcing the ground current to travel through the TINY stock Wire #5.

Wire #4 is left intact, providing a redundant Engine Block > Chassis ground by flowing ground current from the engine block to the battery (-) terminal, across the terminal, and to ground via the new Wire #7.

Wire #7 REPLACES Wire #5, creating the third of the "Big 3" connections, the "Battery Negative > Chassis Ground" connection. By replacing the wimpy stock Wire #5 with a much larger and higher capacity Wire #7, we have strengthened the stock ground path from Engine Block > Chassis ground across Wire #4, AND created a much stronger ground path for all of the chassis wiring (ECU's, lighting, windows, radio, etc, etc) back to the battery.

Last but not least, I removed the paint from the metal at the two fender ground points for Wire #7 and Wire #6, to ensure that they would have a clean and solid connection to the chassis. I ended up using the stock ground location, and another unused bolt hole located about 2 inches rearward.