Lightbar wiring the hard way. I tried all of the easy ways, such as running the wires down the window channel, but those methods did not give me a clean install. Sometimes the best way to do things is to drill holes. Two of them, in this case.
I elected to use a single cable entry gland to get the lightbar wiring in to the cab.
Rather than drill three additional holes for mounting screws, I used 3M VHB (very high bond) tape to adhere the cable gland to the roof and also act as a gasket. That has worked great on my Sprinter van solar entry gland.
The entry gland sits behind the roof track--if the rack were ever removed this wouldn't be super noticeable.
The wiring comes out under the headliner and I have it passing into the C-pillar through a conveniently-located hole. I tried to get the wiring down the B-pillar but the wiring is too thick.
The wiring for the LedExtreme lightbar is quite thick, partly because it's a dual color version. Because of that I decided it would be cleanest to drill another hole in the floor and route the wiring under the chassis to the two relays and fuse box, rather than route it all through the firewall.
Enter hole 2 in the floor in the recess of the floor pan where the fuel pump wiring is located.
I had to cut the wiring harness in multiple places. It had to be extended a bit, and other parts cut because they were too long. I used my own switches as well, which meant cutting off the connectors to avoid drilling a massive hole in the firewall to get the wires through.
I dremeled the lower section of the dash to fit the two switches (one for the amber part of the lightbar, one for the white and one for my existing HID fog lights)
It was time to finally add an accessory fuse block under the hood. I already had my Cadillac horns, ham radio and wideband O2 sensor tied directly to the battery and knew I also had an upcoming air compressor install that would necessitate it. So I added the Blue Sea circuit breaker and fuse block with enough space for a couple of threaded knobs so the aluminum plate could be removed from the factory fuse box if I ever needed to read the printing on the top. (There are nuts JB-welded to the underside of the cover.) I was concerned the screws could loosen on washboard, so I went in later and added a safety pin so the whole shooting match couldn't go anywhere.
The two relays are mounted in the back corner near the clutch master cylinder.
And then there was light.
Complete parts list:
Kit
Have fun!