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Old 09-01-2013, 01:45 PM #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Android_02 View Post
Hey man cool build thread! I enjoyed going through it, definitely different from the threads I see everywhere where it's just big lifts and tires and putting armor all over the rig. I like all the hard work and documentation you've done. Your interior looks awesome all black!



About your push start, do you have to hold down the button until the engine fully starts like when you use the key? Or do you just push it in and release it? I wonder how the module would know when the engine is fully started and when to disengage the starter if you do just push and release it. That thing's pretty cool, definitely gives the 4runner an updated look! Good Job on everything

Ill have to repost my response.


Thanks you for the kind words. As for the push start you have to hold it down to start it. The module will crank for maybe like a second when you just push it which would probably be enough for newer cars but since our trucks take a couple seconds to turn over then you have to hold it down.
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:17 PM #77
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Long time without doing anything. I've been sick for like a month where I don't want to do anything. I was in a wedding with a bachelor party in Vegas. My son started back at school so during the week I cant do anything where my truck is torn apart because I have to pick him up the middle of the day. Just haven't had time to get anything done.

Yesterday I finally got my supercharger installed. Pretty easy install following the directions. I got the supercharger for $800, but was missing a few things. I normally order parts online from local Elmore Toyota and pick them up. They are the cheapest local place I found. But looking up the parts online I found Camelback Toyota to be just a little bit cheaper (maybe saved $20 in total) but they also offered free shipping which means I didn't have to go pick them up so I went with camelback for that reason.

I didn't want to because I had everything but the correct throttle cable bracket but I had to order the install kit which was $168 just so I could get that bracket. I also ordered the belt which was $10 and a new gasket for $8. The supercharger also came without the dynamic tensioner so I had to get that too for $260. So in total I spent around $1250. It took a couple weeks for camelback to get the tensioner in stock and then sent to me. So that delayed me as well. I also installed some colder denso IK22 spark plugs.

I painted the throttle bracket black and the place where it mounts.




I also decided to paint the throttle body black.




Painted the valve covers black as well.





I still need to clean up some of the vacuum lines but it ran the first time I started it and no CEL so far.
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:36 PM #78
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Looks CLEAN!! good job! enoy that supercharger!
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:58 PM #79
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Looks CLEAN!! good job! enoy that supercharger!
Thanks. I'm going to try to. It will be better when I can get a smaller pulley and urd 7th injector kit.
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Old 10-16-2013, 02:01 PM #80
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I cleaned up the mess of vacuum lines I had from just trying to get it to run right.

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Old 10-16-2013, 03:39 PM #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zacattack
Since I installed the Tacoma LBJ's, the tie rod end would hit the crappy end links from the addco sway bars at full lock and make a disgusting scraping noise. And I needed some longer ones since I was lifting it a little more. I picked up front moog end links from rockauto for $35, and for the rear I got 2nd gen end links for $24. The tie rods now no longer hit and so no more disgusting noise.
Wait-wait-wait-wait.

So you've got the Tacoma LBJs and this fixes that sharp turn grinding noise? If so, what specifically is the fix - just new end links, or is there something different about them?
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:51 PM #82
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Quote:
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Wait-wait-wait-wait.

So you've got the Tacoma LBJs and this fixes that sharp turn grinding noise? If so, what specifically is the fix - just new end links, or is there something different about them?
Well for me it fixed the grinding noise at full lock. I have addco sway bars so I was using those end links and they were rather crappy and a large base. So I just replaced them with moog end links and the base of them is smaller, where the tie rod was making contact. I'm not able to compare them to the stock end links of the 4runner.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:04 AM #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zacattack20 View Post
Well for me it fixed the grinding noise at full lock. I have addco sway bars so I was using those end links and they were rather crappy and a large base. So I just replaced them with moog end links and the base of them is smaller, where the tie rod was making contact. I'm not able to compare them to the stock end links of the 4runner.
Hrm...I wonder if it's worth a try, though. It sounds to me like, notwithstanding the Addco sway bar, it's worth doing just to see. I would assume the front end links aren't known to fail that much.

If nothing else, thanks for letting others know about this - I too have the grinding noise @ full lock. Not a huge deal, but if I can eliminate it, it would be nice.
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Old 10-17-2013, 04:45 PM #84
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Quote:
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Hrm...I wonder if it's worth a try, though. It sounds to me like, notwithstanding the Addco sway bar, it's worth doing just to see. I would assume the front end links aren't known to fail that much.

If nothing else, thanks for letting others know about this - I too have the grinding noise @ full lock. Not a huge deal, but if I can eliminate it, it would be nice.

At least end link failure wouldn't cause your wheel to rip off like a ball joint so I'm willing to take the risk. I paid around $35 for the two front links from rockauto. It was really nice to get rid of the noise, I found it embarrassing. Haha. Have you noticed where yours are making contact? I believe I read some people had theirs hitting against the link mount of the truck and they ground down that a little bit and it worked.
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:30 AM #85
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Just now catching up on your build.. This thing sure has came a long way and looks awesome. Keep up the good work!
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Old 10-31-2013, 04:35 PM #86
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Just now catching up on your build.. This thing sure has came a long way and looks awesome. Keep up the good work!
Thank you.
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Old 11-07-2013, 06:14 PM #87
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Since adding the supercharger and not having the 7th injector yet I wanted to make sure that the stock fuel system is working properly so I removed my injectors and sent them to WitchHunter Performance. It would have been better to do before installing the supercharger because now I had to do the work twice but it went pretty quick.

I took out the injectors on Tuesday October 22 and sent them out on the 23rd and they received them on Friday the 25th. He called me on Monday the 28th saying two of them were out of range of resistance and would only charge me for the flow test and not for the cleaning on those at $10 each. He sent them out the next day on the 29th and I got them on the 31st, so it was about a week turnaround because of the weekend. It was a total of $118 for flow test and cleaning of 4 injectors at $22 each, flow test for 2 injectors at $10 each, and return shipping of $10.


Printout of injector tests. If you label each injector with what cylinder it was when you send them out then they will keep them the same on the report.




Since two were out of range on the resistance, I purchased two new OEM injectors at $140 each. The 96-98 have older style injectors which are more expensive, the 99 and up are only $110 each.

Two new injectors



The 96-98 part number is 23209-62030
Its a silver injector

The 99-02 part number is 23209-62040
Its a brown injector


Cleaned injector vs new injector




Injectors installed




Took around an hour to get to the injectors and remove them and then around an hour to put everything back together.
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Old 11-16-2013, 11:17 PM #88
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Half got a project done. I had some LED's laying around and decided I wanted some lighted window switches. The LED's were these surface mount ones from oznium.

Tiny Prewired Super Bright Surface Mount LEDs - 12V DIY Plug and Play SMT LED

I only had a couple so I was only able to get the passengers side done and I will have to order some more.

I bought some light diffuser plastic sheets from inventables.com for like $20 and got 12 letter sized sheets, way more than I needed for this project but maybe I can use it for something else later.

World's Easiest CNC System for Machining | Inventables




It would have been easy if I was able to pop off the top of the switch but I didn't want to chance breaking it. I drilled out the oval indent shape in the switch and then used to a round file to sand it smooth. I cut a little piece of the light diffuser film and put it through the bottom of the switch and then used a little epoxy on the sides to keep it in. I then epoxied the LED to one side of the switch and ran the wires down.



I then wired the power to the switched power wire RED/BLUE and the ground to the BLACK/RED wire. This way when ever the car is turned on then they will light up.


Passenger Rear





Passenger Front




They look great during the day, at night they are a little bright. I might need to add some more layers of the light diffuser film, but I'll probably end up getting used to it before I get around to fixing them. The picture makes it look way brighter than it actually is though.

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Old 11-16-2013, 11:53 PM #89
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Nice! I soldered led lights in the light switches on my 2nd gen mr2. I will have to attempt this mod when I upgrade the dash lights.
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:50 PM #90
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I picked up some tore up power seats off of craigslist for $20. I don't know if the guy had a dog and let him chew at them but that's what it looked like. They were dirty and disgusting and all broken. I figured for $20 I could try to restore them since he said all the motors worked and luckily they did.








They turned out to be a little worse than they looked. I ended up buying $75 worth of seat parts off of a part out from robb1887. I needed the two harness connectors to plug into the seats, the lumbar switch, the 4 switch knobs, a little rod that went between the motor and the seat and then I needed a whole switch assembly because the drivers side had some broken wires and broken mounts and also the passengers side had a broken piece of the switch that I was able to take from the old broken drivers side one.








And then also this trim piece mount on the drivers side was broken off so I had to epoxy that back on.




And then on both seats the motor on the bottom of the picture was broken so I had to epoxy those back together as well.





Then I had to paint all the trim pieces black.







Since like everyone else's lumbar switch seems to break, this one was too which was ok because I wanted to put it in the side of the trim piece.



The back cushions were in decent shape so I just swapped my original cloth bottom cushions on to the seats. I ended up getting a leather seat bottom cushion for $20 from Kanger so I used that one and one of my cloth cushions.

I pulled back the stock leather and put seat heaters and seat coolers. Looking at the seat coolers, I'm not expecting much because they are these tiny little fans. One idea I have to make them better is to tap into the A/C vents and run a hose up into the seats to behind the fans but I'll see how these work first. I put them on the seat backs and bottoms but only have pictures of the backs.

I picked these up from Auto aftermarket carbon fiber seat heater,seat cooling system

Their prices have gone up since I bought them, I think I paid like $100 per seat for the heaters and fans.








This is where I mounted the switches.



I have yet to put in the drivers side switches or wire either seat up yet so I don't know how well they work.

The new seats have a front bar as opposed to my old seats so I was able to take that bracket off for the foot well LED's and put the LED strip right on the front.




The seat covers are coverking leatherette custom fit seat covers. I found the cheapest place to get them was autoanything and use a coupon code. They were around $200 for just the front seats. The back seats have some cheap $40 ebay ones because I have two car seats back there and don't want to waste money on those getting messed up from the impressions of the car seats.













I've had the seat covers on for a couple months now on my old seats and they aren't great. They are really good but not great. They are seat covers so you cant expect them to be perfect but two things I don't like are the headrests and the front of the bottom cushion. You can see in the LED strip picture that they are loose in the front, which fortunately isn't even noticeable when you get the seats in. The other thing is the headrest holes. I don't have a picture of them but they aren't really custom made there, its just like a weird sown open strip. But its not noticeable if you leave your headrest all the way down which I always do.


Installed and working.



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