Nevermind.

If anyone else runs into this issue, the part # is 45280. The numbers after vary by model.

Toyota still wants to sell me the entire "upper bracket assembly"
The local dealers want $300!

I've decided to just eliminate the steering wheel lock completely. I removed the entire assembly yesterday. I can now drive the truck fine using a flathead screwdriver to start it

I've just ordered this:
Amazon.com : Smart Key Rfid PKE Car Alarm System Remote Engine Start Starter Push Start Button & Touch Password Entry Keyless Go System : Vehicle Remote Alarms : Car Electronics

We had a 2007 Camry hybrid, so I'm excited to have a smart key system similar to that. We now have a 2013 Corolla, but I think we're going to sell that and get another hybrid Camry. If you're staying on the dirt, the TCH is one of the finest vehicles made. We test drove one last week, along with a Tundra . I can't really justify the truck, but I've never really liked the Corolla. I wanted to get her the Camry then, but at the time it made more financial sense to get the Corolla.

Anyway, I love the smart keys that use RFID, so it seemed silly to me to spend the money to repair this when I can get improved function for less money.

I was already planning to start a build thread for my truck since I have some suspension parts coming next week, but perhaps this mod will be the first section.

If anyone is struggling with this problem and decides to go this route, just make the decision and cut that whole bracket assembly off. I messed with mine far too long before I finally got the Dremel out and cut the damn thing off.

'Just ran up against this problem on Sunday. All of the posts were very helpful and I greatly appreciate the pix. At 311,000 odd miles the "old girl" does not owe me a dime, so I will suck it up and do whatever it takes to fix the issue. Thanks again to all!

Hi everyone, I have been following your inputs, so greatfull it's full of info, but now that I have the very same exact problem with the broken cast spindle that connects the ignition cylinder to the electrical ignition, the rod is broken, and it looks like it has no name and I couldn't get to get it on line , is there anyone know where and how can I get it please? Thanks in advance

Check out these two brands: "valea" and "bross" on amazon.com. They have Ignition Switch Connector Rods for some Toyotas.

I realize this is an older thread, I have the same broken part on my 1997 4Runner SR5, manual, tilt. I have been unable to find this part new or used. After doing lots of searching I think the whole unit I will need to replace is BRACKET ASSEMBLY, STEERING COLUMN, UPPER part# 4528035290. once again I can't seem to find a used one. Where would I find the best price on new? If I do get one how do I get the old one off, it uses break away security bolts. I tried to put things back together enough so I could turn the key to unlock the steering, then use a screwdriver to turn the ignition switch and be able to drive. Now the key wont turn and I don't seem to be able to remove the ignition key cylinder any more. Maybe its time to have it towed away.

Help and Thanks in advance

Here's the exact part you mentioned. I'd get with a good mechanic or toy tech and tell em the situation, making sure this is what you need & this will fit ....https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/...280-35290.html

You can also try one of several Dealer online discount sources like Ignition Lock Cylinder - Toyota (69057-48140) | GrapevineOEM adjusted for your exact year & so on.

Or try these guys first... Nix99 or as they're now known Felton Auto Parts | NISSAN-INFINITI-LEXUS-TOYOTA Phone: 1-800-713-3999
I've been doin' bizness with them for a'rd 20 yrs on multiple P/U's and 4runners. They have always been excellent to work with. There is a # stamped on the top of the bracket thingy they might need to know (mine was 45020-35-9) & have your VIN ready. The PN they used for my receipt in their system was 633-50700 1U-Ignition Switch

I had the same problem a couple years ago on a '98 (4x4, auto, 3.4L) & they UPS'd me a salvage part for a'rd $100. It included the key cylinder switch and bolts but I replaced that one with mine to keep all the keys the same so I wound up with a spare cylinder & key.

I remember using a 4" grinder & thin wheel (Dremel would have been WAY better...) to cut slots in those weird bolts for a big screwdriver, and was able to reuse the original ones. I think I even remember someone saying they tapped theirs off with a small sharp chisel once they got a bite on the edge of the bolt head. Tore it all apart in the daylight, finished in the dark with headlamps & flashlights, parked in the street, with most of the dash & related parts tossed in the back and me upside down in weird & unusual positions for what seemed an eternity. On top of that, I'm damn old. Either way, it was a pretty hateful job involving lots of new vocabulary and I wish you every good break that your karma will allow...

I had this problem yesterday while I was at the motocross track. Little rod broke in the same spot as yours. What I did to get it home was I unplugged the connector and jumped the pins with some spare wire, until I could get it to start. The exact combination is probably different for different models, but mine (1998 tacoma 2.4l manual) required all 4 on the one side connected to each other and the two on the other side connected, then I used the clutch to operate the starter. After it was running I unplugged the pin for the starter.

I have learned since I've been working on it that, if I unscrewed the switch from the back of the key assembly (two phillips head screws), you can turn the switch with a flat blade screwdriver. So for a temporary fix, I'd unscrew the switch. Also makes it possible to get the rest of the broken rod out.

I decided to repair the rod, mainly because I don't want to wait for the parts.

I would suggest that you try to repair it only if you are really handy, and have the proper tools available.

First thing to do is to turn the steering wheel to a position where the lock mechanism doesn't engage, and be very careful not to turn it until you are done. If it locks, you will probably need to remove the whole assembly from the steering column.

Next pull the key cylinder out, and pull out the top portion of the broken rod.

Next get the switch off the back of the lock assembly. The broken pin will probably fall out with the switch removed, if not fish it out.

Now hopefully it will be clear how the broken parts used to fit together, by looking at the fractured surfaces and matching them up.

What I did to join them back together was I drilled a hole down the center of either side and pressed a hex stock into the holes. I used a 1/8" drill bit and a 3mm hex key. I cut of a straight piece off the hex key about 1.5" long, and drilled down the center of the broken pieces a little over 3/4" deep. I pressed the hex key into one side using a bench vise, then I carefully aligned the other side, and pressed it on. There are flats on either end of the rod which should be parallel, that helped make the alignment go a bit easier.

Re-assembly, is easier if you leave the switch loose, while you get everything else working again, you'll probably need to take it off a time or two. Get the rod down the hole, and lined up with the switch and the key cylinder. It will take some fiddling.

If you must remove the whole assembly: I welded a nut to the end of those security bolts. Someone else cut a slot into them and turned them with a screwdriver. I am a professional welder and had the tig welder sitting right there, but even being a pro it was pretty difficult. So I would suggest trying the slot method first.

Good luck.

I will try some of the ideas here to fix my own broken rod, but in the meantime, I simply removed then two screws holding the ignition switch to the end of the lock cylinder assembly, then I used the extra slack in the wires to move it over to the fuse panel access door by the driver's door. I can tuck the switch up in that fuse panel area and it can't be seen by thieves. I use my key to unlock the steering wheel and then use a screwdriver to start the car. It's a lousy in-between way, but it gets the job done!

I never had to remove those breakaway bolts or anything. If you have the key, you can get the key cylinder, steering wheel unlock rod, ignition switch rod, and ignition switch off without messing with those.

Sorry for reviving and old post, I was wondering if there is a way to get rid of the steering wheel lock so I can do a push start system without the need of the key to unlock the steering wheel.

On a Jeep it looks a little difference but is called an
Ignition actuator pin. Fits between the cylinder and the ignition switch.

I'm glad I found this forum thread because I had the exact same issue with my 1997 SR5. I was able to get the ignition column part number by positioning several small mirrors and flashlights to read it. My model has tilt steering and was part number 45020-35-9. I spent a fair amount of time searching the internet for a new barrel rod part and there were many for other vehicles but I just couldn't find one for this 4runner. There were several salvaged ignition columns on eBay (seller: Alma Recycled Import Ports Mesa, AZ), so I was able to get the assembly with the keys, cylinder, and, switch for $85. I removed the barrel rod from the salvaged column and used the advice from one of the thread posts above to get the rod inserted past the steering wheel lock mechanism. Its was easier for me to get the rod in place with the ignition switch removed. Thanks everyone that contributed information on this topic thread!

So thankful for this forum.
This just happened to my 99 SR5 this weekend.
I thought it was the ignition lock cylinder but I actually need to replace Steering Column Housing Support Upper Bracket 4528035350.
If I read correctly the bolt needs to be broken off and replaced. Does anyone know the bolt size and how difficult it is to break?

Thanks for any help.

4589712020 Is the part number for the replacement bolt and you will need 2. I’d recommend a grinder or air hammer with a chisel bit to remove the old bolts.

What’s wrong with your housing?

The shaft that's built into the housing snapped off.
I used a dremel and cut a notch out to use a screwdriver to remove the bolts.
It's up and running but the white plastic pin that holds the ignition lock cylinder broke. So now I have to hunt up that part number.

Replacement part number: bracket assy steering upper 45280-35370

Thanks for the part number.