[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by Thebeastlives

I'm curious what mpg do you guys get supercharging a 3rd get? Also with the additional power does our 5th gen hold up under the stress o towing

Not as much as you would think. I test drove a 5th gen and compared with my supercharged 4Runner at 11 PSI with the old tired engine it was stronger than a brand new 5th Gen. It couldn't accelerate onto the freeway and the only difference was it rode smoother. That was a $51,000 model I was driving too.

[Thebeastlives]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

Not as much as you would think. I test drove a 5th gen and compared with my supercharged 4Runner at 11 PSI with the old tired engine it was stronger than a brand new 5th Gen. It couldn't accelerate onto the freeway and the only difference was it rode smoother. That was a $51,000 model I was driving too.

I agree with your accessment. My wife's new 5th gen is smooth and when running offroad it is much more comfortable than our 3rd gen. I know tons of 5th gen owners who turn theirs into overlanders and the only reason I would not do this to the 3rd gen is the power. The SC mod definitely changes that thinking.

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by Thebeastlives

I agree with your accessment. My wife's new 5th gen is smooth and when running offroad it is much more comfortable than our 3rd gen. I know tons of 5th gen owners who turn theirs into overlanders and the only reason I would not do this to the 3rd gen is the power. The SC mod definitely changes that thinking.

And the fact that you can do it for less than $6K vs $40K-$50K!

[Co4Fun]

Hi all, thought I'd post here to get some advice from the experts.

I have a 99 SC'd at 98k and now has 140k. Fully stock SC saetup...pulley etc., but with 2 step cooler plugs and 1 step cooler thermostat.

About 1000 miles ago I started getting knock sensor codes. Before that I had only had a few leans which I solved by plugging the air box mod (done by PO.) The knock sensor codes were both banks (330 & 325) so logically we figured it was the harness. Had my mech do both sensors replaced with OEM and the harness (and unfortunately the original didn't look bad.) We also did new coils, wires and plugs. Almost $2k worth of work. It runs awesome...when the code isn't on. The P0330 code is still coming on every 35-50 miles (325 is gone). I can find no correlation...it being hot, altitude (Denver vs mtns etc.) It just seems to randomly pop on.

I have a scangauge and can clear it but man is that annoying every 35 miles or so keep it from going into limp etc.

You'll have to trust me but I do have one of the best Toy mech's in Denver (and have talked to other local experts). My mech scoped it and all and says there's no knock...at least not one he'd be concerned with. The opinion of most is that this is something you deal with when SCing here in CO with this setup.

I am trying octane booster just to see what that does this week. If it works and keeps the light off, then I guess I could start chasing the fuel side of things...bigger or 7th injector, URD pump etc. I just don't know if I want to. Others that have gone this expensive route say it hasn't helped.

I am going to try eliminating the SC. CAN I DO THIS by just putting a regular belt on and bypassing the SC. Or, should I put a stock intake on it? Thoughts?

I was going to try a new ECU and I have one but I know that's doubtful and I would have to get it flashed bc mine is the Limited which requires that.

I can go the route of jumping the one bank to the other (since it's now just the P0330 that is throwing).

I can work with my mech to crack it back open and try yet another sensor in that bank but I'm doubtful that's it.

Anyone else chased an issue like this? I'm sort of at the point of thinking that if removing the SC keeps the knock sensor off maybe I'll just sell it off. Sad to lose the power but I'm fed up. Either that or I go the other direction and pour money into URD fixes which are not guaranteed.

Thoughts from my Yota brethren?

Thanks!

[league4]

Can anyone confirm if this: PTR29-60040 Is the part number for the first gen (gray) supercharger bypass valve/diaphragm? I think mine might have a slight leak in the rubber inside part as when I push the lever in, block the nipple with my thumb, and let go, it retracts about half way then stops instead of staying open from the start.

PTR2960040 - Actuator3.43rd&lcsc - Genuine Toyota Part

Also, does this piece need adjustment after it's been removed/reinstalled? Theres a label on the new TRD ones mentioning "factory adjustment" and theres what seems to be adjustment room on the bracket but Ive never seen it mentioned before.

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by Co4Fun

Hi all, thought I'd post here to get some advice from the experts.

I have a 99 SC'd at 98k and now has 140k. Fully stock SC saetup...pulley etc., but with 2 step cooler plugs and 1 step cooler thermostat.

About 1000 miles ago I started getting knock sensor codes. Before that I had only had a few leans which I solved by plugging the air box mod (done by PO.) The knock sensor codes were both banks (330 & 325) so logically we figured it was the harness. Had my mech do both sensors replaced with OEM and the harness (and unfortunately the original didn't look bad.) We also did new coils, wires and plugs. Almost $2k worth of work. It runs awesome...when the code isn't on. The P0330 code is still coming on every 35-50 miles (325 is gone). I can find no correlation...it being hot, altitude (Denver vs mtns etc.) It just seems to randomly pop on.

I have a scangauge and can clear it but man is that annoying every 35 miles or so keep it from going into limp etc.

You'll have to trust me but I do have one of the best Toy mech's in Denver (and have talked to other local experts). My mech scoped it and all and says there's no knock...at least not one he'd be concerned with. The opinion of most is that this is something you deal with when SCing here in CO with this setup.

I am trying octane booster just to see what that does this week. If it works and keeps the light off, then I guess I could start chasing the fuel side of things...bigger or 7th injector, URD pump etc. I just don't know if I want to. Others that have gone this expensive route say it hasn't helped.

I am going to try eliminating the SC. CAN I DO THIS by just putting a regular belt on and bypassing the SC. Or, should I put a stock intake on it? Thoughts?

I was going to try a new ECU and I have one but I know that's doubtful and I would have to get it flashed bc mine is the Limited which requires that.

I can go the route of jumping the one bank to the other (since it's now just the P0330 that is throwing).

I can work with my mech to crack it back open and try yet another sensor in that bank but I'm doubtful that's it.

Anyone else chased an issue like this? I'm sort of at the point of thinking that if removing the SC keeps the knock sensor off maybe I'll just sell it off. Sad to lose the power but I'm fed up. Either that or I go the other direction and pour money into URD fixes which are not guaranteed.

Thoughts from my Yota brethren?

Thanks!

The code isn't from excessive knock. When it encounters that it just pulls timing, not throw a code. Even if you were to exceed the maximum timing advance it can pull, it still won't throw a code. The issue is actually with the wiring or the sensors themselves. As luck (or misfortune) would have it, I'm also doing this same job this weekend since mine is also throwing intermittent Bank 2 knock sensor codes.

The only possible causes of the knock sensors codes are (taken from the FSM):

Open or short in knock sensor circuit
Knock sensor (looseness)
ECM

That's it. Try inspecting your wiring harness from where the pigtail connects to the harness all the way down to the ECU and look for any damage or evidence of rodents chewing their way through. If that doesn't find the issue, you might want to try swapping ECU's with a known good one.

Also, you can't run the engine without the supercharger rotors running. The bypass valve will be blocked and no air will flow through. Actually, I don't think you'd even get it to start.

[Co4Fun]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

The code isn't from excessive knock. When it encounters that it just pulls timing, not throw a code. Even if you were to exceed the maximum timing advance it can pull, it still won't throw a code. The issue is actually with the wiring or the sensors themselves. As luck (or misfortune) would have it, I'm also doing this same job this weekend since mine is also throwing intermittent Bank 2 knock sensor codes.

The only possible causes of the knock sensors codes are (taken from the FSM):

Open or short in knock sensor circuit
Knock sensor (looseness)
ECM

That's it. Try inspecting your wiring harness from where the pigtail connects to the harness all the way down to the ECU and look for any damage or evidence of rodents chewing their way through. If that doesn't find the issue, you might want to try swapping ECU's with a known good one.

Also, you can't run the engine without the supercharger rotors running. The bypass valve will be blocked and no air will flow through. Actually, I don't think you'd even get it to start.

MUCH appreciated feedback. Yep, I think you're right...that it really has to be in the circuit and that goes along with what my mech is finding with zero evidence of any actual knock.

So, I'll have to start chasing electric and yes, if worse comes to it then we may just have to crack into it all again and I'll have to try and work that out with him financially.

I still think it would be interesting to throw a stock intake on there just to see or eliminate that it is the SC...like you doubt it is and if it still throws the code with the stock intake then of course just as you are saying it can only be the sensor, the ECU or the wiring between them. And I have an exact ECU as I'd said but would have to get it flashed so just have been avoiding that. That would be maybe something to try after wire chasing but before cracking it open again. We'll see. I'll try and keep you updated.

Let me know how yours goes and happy wrenching! Are you doing it all while you are in there? Both sensors and harness?

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by Co4Fun

MUCH appreciated feedback. Yep, I think you're right...that it really has to be in the circuit and that goes along with what my mech is finding with zero evidence of any actual knock.

So, I'll have to start chasing electric and yes, if worse comes to it then we may just have to crack into it all again and I'll have to try and work that out with him financially.

I still think it would be interesting to throw a stock intake on there just to see or eliminate that it is the SC...like you doubt it is and if it still throws the code with the stock intake then of course just as you are saying it can only be the sensor, the ECU or the wiring between them. And I have an exact ECU as I'd said but would have to get it flashed so just have been avoiding that. That would be maybe something to try after wire chasing but before cracking it open again. We'll see. I'll try and keep you updated.

Let me know how yours goes and happy wrenching! Are you doing it all while you are in there? Both sensors and harness?

Get the ECU flashed? You can't flash a 3rd Gen ECU, they've never been cracked. Hope your mechanic didn't charge you for it. It's worth swapping it out if you've got it. Very simple to do, you just remove the glovebox, remove the black middle section of vent piping and the rear of the ECU is facing towards you. Unplug the 5 harnesses, undo two screws holding the brackets on the firewall and it just pulls right out. I've done it a few times on my rig and many other times. No risk to the ECU itself as long as you don't drop it.

I'm just changing the harness on my engine though. The intermittent code tells me it's the harness failing. I have two used replacements that tested good so when I've got it open I'll do a quick check with a multimeter to make sure they are in spec. The engine I have in there now only had 60K miles so I'd be shocked they went bad.

[rideexileex]

Originally Posted by Co4Fun

Hi all, thought I'd post here to get some advice from the experts.

I have a 99 SC'd at 98k and now has 140k. Fully stock SC saetup...pulley etc., but with 2 step cooler plugs and 1 step cooler thermostat.

About 1000 miles ago I started getting knock sensor codes. Before that I had only had a few leans which I solved by plugging the air box mod (done by PO.) The knock sensor codes were both banks (330 & 325) so logically we figured it was the harness. Had my mech do both sensors replaced with OEM and the harness (and unfortunately the original didn't look bad.) We also did new coils, wires and plugs. Almost $2k worth of work. It runs awesome...when the code isn't on. The P0330 code is still coming on every 35-50 miles (325 is gone). I can find no correlation...it being hot, altitude (Denver vs mtns etc.) It just seems to randomly pop on.

I have a scangauge and can clear it but man is that annoying every 35 miles or so keep it from going into limp etc.

You'll have to trust me but I do have one of the best Toy mech's in Denver (and have talked to other local experts). My mech scoped it and all and says there's no knock...at least not one he'd be concerned with. The opinion of most is that this is something you deal with when SCing here in CO with this setup.

I am trying octane booster just to see what that does this week. If it works and keeps the light off, then I guess I could start chasing the fuel side of things...bigger or 7th injector, URD pump etc. I just don't know if I want to. Others that have gone this expensive route say it hasn't helped.

I am going to try eliminating the SC. CAN I DO THIS by just putting a regular belt on and bypassing the SC. Or, should I put a stock intake on it? Thoughts?

I was going to try a new ECU and I have one but I know that's doubtful and I would have to get it flashed bc mine is the Limited which requires that.

I can go the route of jumping the one bank to the other (since it's now just the P0330 that is throwing).

I can work with my mech to crack it back open and try yet another sensor in that bank but I'm doubtful that's it.

Anyone else chased an issue like this? I'm sort of at the point of thinking that if removing the SC keeps the knock sensor off maybe I'll just sell it off. Sad to lose the power but I'm fed up. Either that or I go the other direction and pour money into URD fixes which are not guaranteed.

Thoughts from my Yota brethren?

Thanks!

Have you tried the "free FMU mod" for the SC with the vacuum hoses?

[rideexileex]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

Also, you can't run the engine without the supercharger rotors running. The bypass valve will be blocked and no air will flow through. Actually, I don't think you'd even get it to start.

Ehhh, I'm not saying to do this, but the engine still runs with no belt to the SC. I can attest to this by driving with a just discovered broken SC belt - which is why I always carry spares.

[league4]

Originally Posted by rideexileex

Have you tried the "free FMU mod" for the SC with the vacuum hoses?

Can you elaborate on this?

[rideexileex]

Originally Posted by league4

Can you elaborate on this?

LMGTFY

....

Fuel Delivery

[Co4Fun]

Originally Posted by rideexileex

Have you tried the "free FMU mod" for the SC with the vacuum hoses?

I'm looking at it now. Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out.

And yes, I heard from others you can run with the SC belt off but ya, not a good test. If I want to eliminate the SC the better option is to put a stock manifold on. We'll see...

[Co4Fun]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

Get the ECU flashed? You can't flash a 3rd Gen ECU, they've never been cracked. Hope your mechanic didn't charge you for it. It's worth swapping it out if you've got it. Very simple to do, you just remove the glovebox, remove the black middle section of vent piping and the rear of the ECU is facing towards you. Unplug the 5 harnesses, undo two screws holding the brackets on the firewall and it just pulls right out. I've done it a few times on my rig and many other times. No risk to the ECU itself as long as you don't drop it.

I'm just changing the harness on my engine though. The intermittent code tells me it's the harness failing. I have two used replacements that tested good so when I've got it open I'll do a quick check with a multimeter to make sure they are in spec. The engine I have in there now only had 60K miles so I'd be shocked they went bad.

Oh man I have learned a lot on this. So I have an extra ECU. I bought it at the local yard and it is the EXACT part number for my rig per Vin#. I swapped it and another from the yard, twice both...so I am pretty familiar with the process now as you can imagine.

Both of these yard ECU's would crank but not fire. Utterly confused and without any help from the yard guy (who also thought this was before the era of flashing etc.) I started calling around, the dealer, mechanics etc. So in 1999 the LIMITED model only had the ECU "flashed" or correlated to the keys somehow. To get the other yard ECU to work I would have to get it "flashed" or "coded" to my current keys. And then, only that one would work...you can't have more than one flashed to the keys for some reason. So, since the yard guy will not take this back I have this ECU but would have to pay another $150-200 to get it flashed. Ugh.

So I put this on hold for now but I have the ECU. The one in my truck says it's "Remanufactured for Toyota by Denso." I don't like that, it's not original. the dealer convinced me though that it's because at some point someone lost keys and had to get a reman to go in there. He and another mech are saying it's so doubtful it's the ECU at all...sort of it works or doesn't and this one in the truck...the reman it does work. So we'll see. My mech said he'll chase the circuit back before trying the other ECU.

Anyway, that's the story on that.

I think replacing the harness is your best bet considering your situation. BUT, you'll have to see when you get in there. If it's crispy then that's a good sign that's likely it. Mine was not which was actually concerning since my codes (both banks) were intermittent too. I guess the only risk is time...having to crack back into it if that doesn't do it. Since I paid my mech to do that I'm out the money. And the funny thing was I did it to save time (I actually wrench quite a bit but am working and coaching full time.) LOL, if I'd only known because now without coaching I could have tackled it myself.

LMK how yours goes.

[Co4Fun]

Originally Posted by rideexileex

Have you tried the "free FMU mod" for the SC with the vacuum hoses?

Just update on this. I checked and the FMU mod is done on mine! PO or installer did it. So that's cool but won't help with this issue since it's already done.