[Dalandser]

Found a 2wd 4runner supercharged for $5k

4runner Toyota 1998 SUPERCHARGED TRD OEM 3.4 L V-6 sun moonroof $ -...

[JohnOfTheJungle]

Checking back in on my supercharger polishing project.

Here’s a reminder of how it looked after my first round of paint stripper



I’ve spent the last few weeks working off and on stripping that nasty beige enamel off my supercharger. 0/10 do not recommend - that paint is stubborn.

I’ve tried lots of things - 3 different kinds of paint strippers, I’ve sandblasted 100 lbs of aluminum oxide at it, various wire wheels, steel wool, you name it. It’s been an interesting experiment though I’ve poured way too many hours into it.

Here’s how it looked about midway through



Here’s how it looks now





I don’t think I’m gonna be able to take it to a mirror finish, which is fine - it’s been a a good way to practice some different polishing techniques. I can’t get all the paint out of the crevices of the nose cone and couldn’t polish it anyway, so I’m just gonna paint it red.



Now I’m trying to really flush out and clean the inside of the largest part a few pics back (that mounts to the intake). Since I sandblasted it I’ve had aluminum oxide particles all caked up inside and I REALLY don’t want that in my engine.

Got it pretty good today using goof off graffiti remover inside and spraying out with a hose. I feel like it needs a good soak in simple green and near boiling water to get any remnants out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bdnewyork]

Originally Posted by 4Reak Show

I went with a single gauge which includes boost and AFR and is customizable to display as you wish. Amazon.com: AEM 30-4900 Wideband Failsafe Gauge: Automotive

It works really well, and it data logs/records if you want to hook up a laptop and go about it that way. Otherwise, any AFR gauge will be fine to keep an eye on any overly rich/lean conditions.

Hey @4Reak Show , can you recall where you grabbed the RPM signal? I also bought a 30-4900 and unwisely had a shop recently install it. All seemed fine until one day I turned the key on with the engine off and heard an odd new sound. Went to start the engine a few moments later only to find it was flooded out. Yup, I discovered that the UEGO is apparently loading down the impedance of the crank sensor ECU input and causing the injectors to fire when the engine is off.

I've yet to look to see what he tapped into (pin 24 maybe?); but have verified that with key on, engine off, wideband connected - injectors fire. Disconnect wideband, they stop.

I've reviewed schematics and it seems the only place to tap the RPM signal is at pin 16 (red wire) of E10 at the ECU. I may be mistaken; but It doesn't seem to be available at the gauge cluster. The crank sensor cable is shielded, while the AEM RPM input is not. Could that be causing an issue? Thanks in advance.

[4Reak Show]

Originally Posted by Bdnewyork

Hey @4Reak Show , can you recall where you grabbed the RPM signal? I also bought a 30-4900 and unwisely had a shop recently install it. All seemed fine until one day I turned the key on with the engine off and heard an odd new sound. Went to start the engine a few moments later only to find it was flooded out. Yup, I discovered that the UEGO is apparently loading down the impedance of the crank sensor ECU input and causing the injectors to fire when the engine is off.

I've yet to look to see what he tapped into (pin 24 maybe?); but have verified that with key on, engine off, wideband connected - injectors fire. Disconnect wideband, they stop.

I've reviewed schematics and it seems the only place to tap the RPM signal is at pin 16 (red wire) of E10 at the ECU. I may be mistaken; but It doesn't seem to be available at the gauge cluster. The crank sensor cable is shielded, while the AEM RPM input is not. Could that be causing an issue? Thanks in advance.

Sorry dude, I didn’t hook up to an RPM signal so I can’t help on your quest.

Maybe contact AEM?

[Bdnewyork]

Originally Posted by 4Reak Show

Sorry dude, I didn’t hook up to an RPM signal so I can’t help on your quest.

Maybe contact AEM?

I'll reach out to AEM next week. Thx for the quick response.

[365runner]

What’s up y’all, new to the forum(first real post) and introduced myself over on the new members thread. Like many, I’ve been lurking for years but finally made an account. To give you a little back ground, this 96 is pushing 340k, new head gasket, timing belt, heads, and new stock cams this past summer. I have a pretty particular issue that’s driving me nuts and I kind of don’t know what to do next. Pre install, I had the larger fuel pump installed, truck drove perfect for a couple weeks with no codes at all. I installed a complete URD supercharger kit with the AIC/T 7th injector kit and injector, triple checked my work, hose routing and did everything well(pretty neurotic about doing good work on this truck) hop in to turn the key with excitement, no crank at the starter at all. Dash lights pop up like normal, and when the key is turned all the way to start the clock and radio dim as if power is cut then return when you let up off the key. All my wiring is fine, all the relays have been tested, MAF sensor and all wiring in the engine bay is testing as fine, but I just can’t find the issue. It’s almost like it’s backfeeding power. Some folks have said the kit is not compatible with a 96, but gadget over at URD has said otherwise and that it should be fine. I pulled the 7th controller and 7th injector too just to rule it out with the stock ecu and yet still no start. It’s just kind of a trip to me that with no changes made to the stock truck, except the addition of the super charger and URD computer that there could be no crank or start at all in the slightest. I made extra sure no wires got pinched, nothing got yanked, and the install went very well. I apologize for the essay, just thought as much background as possible would help. Really looking for any help that I can get, and appreciate that this forum exists

[365runner]

Might also be of note that post install, my scan gauge reported a p0100 code that wasn’t there before the install either. MAF didn’t throw any codes in the slightest beforehand

[4Reak Show]

Originally Posted by 365runner

What’s up y’all, new to the forum(first real post) and introduced myself over on the new members thread. Like many, I’ve been lurking for years but finally made an account. To give you a little back ground, this 96 is pushing 340k, new head gasket, timing belt, heads, and new stock cams this past summer. I have a pretty particular issue that’s driving me nuts and I kind of don’t know what to do next. Pre install, I had the larger fuel pump installed, truck drove perfect for a couple weeks with no codes at all. I installed a complete URD supercharger kit with the AIC/T 7th injector kit and injector, triple checked my work, hose routing and did everything well(pretty neurotic about doing good work on this truck) hop in to turn the key with excitement, no crank at the starter at all. Dash lights pop up like normal, and when the key is turned all the way to start the clock and radio dim as if power is cut then return when you let up off the key. All my wiring is fine, all the relays have been tested, MAF sensor and all wiring in the engine bay is testing as fine, but I just can’t find the issue. It’s almost like it’s backfeeding power. Some folks have said the kit is not compatible with a 96, but gadget over at URD has said otherwise and that it should be fine. I pulled the 7th controller and 7th injector too just to rule it out with the stock ecu and yet still no start. It’s just kind of a trip to me that with no changes made to the stock truck, except the addition of the super charger and URD computer that there could be no crank or start at all in the slightest. I made extra sure no wires got pinched, nothing got yanked, and the install went very well. I apologize for the essay, just thought as much background as possible would help. Really looking for any help that I can get, and appreciate that this forum exists

Want to confirm: you’re stating is a NO CRANK issue correct? Like there is literally no sound coming from under the hood when you’re turning to the START position right? No “na-na-na-na-na-na” of the engine rotating?

If that’s the case, it had nothing to do with you’re job. A NO CRANK issue is either: battery, starter, wiring in between, or the control side such as ignition switch, security system, or neutral switch.

Sooo I’m wondering if you have the car actually in park or neutral. Or if it’s manual, with the clutch pressed in.

Now if it Cranks but doesn’t start... that’s a different story

[365runner]

I appreciate you getting back to me. Correct, the motor isn’t turning and the starter isn’t engaging at all. I hear the relays behind the dash doing their clicky sounds, and it’s definitely not the loud starter contacts, it’s very faint. I tried starting in neutral, no cranking either and put it back into park to no start either. Had the battery load tested at a local Napa and they said it checked out. So I suppose I’ll start digging around the ignition switch. This truck had two alarms in it at one point, an aftermarket and the factory, but the aftermarket was pulled a while ago and it’s never given me any grief until this install.

[MarkamisPrime]

Originally Posted by 365runner

I appreciate you getting back to me. Correct, the motor isn’t turning and the starter isn’t engaging at all. I hear the relays behind the dash doing their clicky sounds, and it’s definitely not the loud starter contacts, it’s very faint. I tried starting in neutral, no cranking either and put it back into park to no start either. Had the battery load tested at a local Napa and they said it checked out. So I suppose I’ll start digging around the ignition switch. This truck had two alarms in it at one point, an aftermarket and the factory, but the aftermarket was pulled a while ago and it’s never given me any grief until this install.

Easiest thing to do is jump your starter
If it cranks you know it’s not the starter
Check your starter signal wire, make sure your getting power to your starter.

[Bran808]

Need advice/suggestions/help. Runner starts but dies after a few seconds.

1997 4Runner 2wd 3.4L 5VZ-FE ~92,000 miles
Borla Exhaust
Injen Intake

This weekend this is what I got done:
Replaced Starter
Replaced Alternator
Replaced Heater hoses with HPS Reinforced Red Silicone Hose Kit (w/o rear heater)
Replaced Radiator hoses with HPS Reinforced Red Silicone Hose Kit
Replaced Fuel Filter (OEM)
Installed Magnuson Supercharger (2nd Gen...the Black one)
Replaced Pulley with 2.2" URD SuperGrip SC Pulley
Installed URD 5VZ Idler Pulley for the Dynamic Tensioner
Installed URD 7th Injector Kit
Replaced Fuel Pump
Replaced Spark Plugs

When I initially started it up (after priming everything) she started but ran a little rough and ECL came on with codes P0100 and P0101.

Cleaned then replaced the MAF (O'Reillys....Toyota quoted me $1400).

Now she starts but dies after a few seconds. Checked all the fuel lines. Checked all the vacuum lines. Cleaned the Throttle Body. Checked the fuses.

If anyone has pics of their vacuum lines and can share I'd appreciate it. I had a question about the 2 vacuum lines that run from under the power steering pump. One goes to the intake and the other one I wasn't sure....I emailed Magnuson and the pic they sent shows it "T"s into the line from the PCV to the manifold.

What else do I need to check? I'll recheck the wires I soldered to install the 7th Injector. I gotta pull the glove box again.

Much Mahalo! Brandy

[4Reak Show]

Originally Posted by Bran808

Need advice/suggestions/help. Runner starts but dies after a few seconds.

1997 4Runner 2wd 3.4L 5VZ-FE ~92,000 miles
Borla Exhaust
Injen Intake

This weekend this is what I got done:
Replaced Starter
Replaced Alternator
Replaced Heater hoses with HPS Reinforced Red Silicone Hose Kit (w/o rear heater)
Replaced Radiator hoses with HPS Reinforced Red Silicone Hose Kit
Replaced Fuel Filter (OEM)
Installed Magnuson Supercharger (2nd Gen...the Black one)
Replaced Pulley with 2.2" URD SuperGrip SC Pulley
Installed URD 5VZ Idler Pulley for the Dynamic Tensioner
Installed URD 7th Injector Kit
Replaced Fuel Pump
Replaced Spark Plugs

When I initially started it up (after priming everything) she started but ran a little rough and ECL came on with codes P0100 and P0101.

Cleaned then replaced the MAF (O'Reillys....Toyota quoted me $1400).

Now she starts but dies after a few seconds. Checked all the fuel lines. Checked all the vacuum lines. Cleaned the Throttle Body. Checked the fuses.

If anyone has pics of their vacuum lines and can share I'd appreciate it. I had a question about the 2 vacuum lines that run from under the power steering pump. One goes to the intake and the other one I wasn't sure....I emailed Magnuson and the pic they sent shows it "T"s into the line from the PCV to the manifold.

What else do I need to check? I'll recheck the wires I soldered to install the 7th Injector. I gotta pull the glove box again.

Much Mahalo! Brandy

Last page, page 22
https://www.magnusonsuperchargers.co...4_Magnuson.pdf

Confirm the routing and then report. Did it run fine before you did all the listed items?

Also, don’t forget the little ground on the driver side of the supercharger. It’s the ground source for the ECU. It will crank/no start with that wire off. Easy to forget... ask me how I know.

[Bran808]

Originally Posted by 4Reak Show

Last page, page 22
https://www.magnusonsuperchargers.co...4_Magnuson.pdf

Confirm the routing and then report. Did it run fine before you did all the listed items?

Also, don’t forget the little ground on the driver side of the supercharger. It’s the ground source for the ECU. It will crank/no start with that wire off. Easy to forget... ask me how I know.

Confirmed routing. Even blew into the hose with the AIC one way valve to make sure air was going in to the manifold. Gasket was from the SC kit and installed correctly.

Yes, she ran perfectly before all the new stuff went on. No ECL, wasn't running roughly, started as she's supposed to with no hesitation.

Ground is connected on the driver side but will double check again.

[gamefreakgc]

Wow, that's a laundry list of items to do all at once. Some seemingly simple things but...

Is your fuel filter installed correctly? I don't think it's possible but if it was backwards...

Also P0100 and P0101 are very rare codes. Double-check your 7th injector wiring and do not use butt connectors, only solder the wires. Too many friends of mine have had odd codes because their wiring came loose. The inability for the ECU to see the MAF signal will kill the engine, every time.

[Bran808]

Fuel filter “out” is towards the engine.

Checked the wiring and re-soldered the C plug E2 function wires. Still nothing. Read up and watched some vids on electrically checking the MAF ports and wiring.

What I found was that it seems on the harness side my ground for the MAF sensor side isn’t a good connection. Instead of the 12v it’s only reading ~10.5v. Does that mean I need to replace that entire wire run you think? (The ground for the AIT is getting the 12v).