[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by Speedy

Includes an intercooler hmmmmm

Where the heck are they going to fit intercooler pipes on a new supercharger though? That housing it tiny. Intercooler might fit behind the grill though.

[Romeo1]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

Where the heck are they going to fit intercooler pipes on a new supercharger though? That housing it tiny. Intercooler might fit behind the grill though.

I agree, the mock up that they presented at SEMA, to me, doesn't look intercooled. But we shall see.

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

Where the heck are they going to fit intercooler pipes on a new supercharger though? That housing it tiny. Intercooler might fit behind the grill though.

Hoses. AWIC. Look at the similar designs for the newer engines. With intercooler, it'll be $5k+ which will hurt sales, but be much better for performance. It'll still have the low RPM ping issues because of the OEM ECU knock sensor limitations...

-Charlie

[Devbot]

For future reference, what would be considered too low of compression for adding a s/c? I always see people recommend you check compression if you're high mileage but I never see a baseline mentioned. I don't have any figures now but I plan on doing a test sometime this spring when I get more free time

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by Devbot

For future reference, what would be considered too low of compression for adding a s/c? I always see people recommend you check compression if you're high mileage but I never see a baseline mentioned. I don't have any figures now but I plan on doing a test sometime this spring when I get more free time

The actual number does not matter that much and depending on what brand of tool you use, that number can change. Harbor Freight sells a kit that most people buy and that I also own. What is important is the variance between the numbers. Toyota states that any variance more than 15 PSI less than the highest compression is out of spec. This is also based on:

• A fully charge battery reading 12.8V when off
• The engine being spun at 250 RPM by the starter
• The maximum compression being no higher than 174 PSI
• The maximum pressure reading being above 145

Since that list is really hard to duplicate, most of us stick to the 15PSI or 10% difference between cylinders. So if you do a check and you get say, 150-160 PSI across all 6 you're doing great. Don't get thrown off by guys saying they have 200 PSI or those that say they have 140 PSI, as there's too many variables between the tool being used and the conditions listed above.

[Speedy]

I'm prepping to replace my valve cover gaskets and the supercharger will be coming off (black supercharger if that matters). I figure that'll be a good time to change the supercharger oil that has about 100K miles on it. Supercharger sounds good, runs quiet, makes plenty of boost with the 2.1 pulley so I don't think it needs anything else?

Is the GM oil still the stuff: Amazon.com
P/N 12345982

I found spec is 130ml which is right at 4oz so one bottle?

For whatever reason the "Toyota oil change kits" are like $150! No thanks.

[Devbot]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

The actual number does not matter that much and depending on what brand of tool you use, that number can change. Harbor Freight sells a kit that most people buy and that I also own. What is important is the variance between the numbers. Toyota states that any variance more than 15 PSI less than the highest compression is out of spec. This is also based on:

• A fully charge battery reading 12.8V when off
• The engine being spun at 250 RPM by the starter
• The maximum compression being no higher than 174 PSI
• The maximum pressure reading being above 145

Since that list is really hard to duplicate, most of us stick to the 15PSI or 10% difference between cylinders. So if you do a check and you get say, 150-160 PSI across all 6 you're doing great. Don't get thrown off by guys saying they have 200 PSI or those that say they have 140 PSI, as there's too many variables between the tool being used and the conditions listed above.

There wouldn't happen to be some way to check the condition of your transmission aside from full on disassembly, would there? I can't imagine so, but I've said that about this car more times than I can count. That's what I'm more concerned about really; dropping all that money just to burn up my gears

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by Devbot

There wouldn't happen to be some way to check the condition of your transmission aside from full on disassembly, would there? I can't imagine so, but I've said that about this car more times than I can count. That's what I'm more concerned about really; dropping all that money just to burn up my gears

It's not exactly a quick job but dropping the transmission pan would be what you are after. The transmission is all fluid, gears and clutch plates and is fairly mechanical. The first thing you'll notice with a failing transmission is metal shavings in the fluid that is caught by the magnets on the bottom of the pan. Fine powder that doesn't overwhelm the magnet is fine but any shiny brass or large slivers. This is what a healthy pan and magnet looks like:



This is what a failing transmission pan looks like. Note the large fragments strewn about:

[MFMG2019]

I just bought a 99 4runner s/c. It's in really great shape, no rust. 160k on it. First Gen charger. I've personally changed oil, oil filter, fuel filter, new belts, plugs, plug wires, coil packs. Re checking plugs tomorrow. New intake system. Cleaned TB. Cleaned the maf and iac.The problem is at low idle is will try to die out. If I put the pedal to the floor, it will line right out. But no check light. It spots and sputters under 2500 and as soon as I floor it, it will run strong. Tries to die out at low idle everytime. Sorry for the poor Grammer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It also has been sitting for 1.5 years in a building. Mostly happens while driving. Parked and in neutral it will low idol but I can give just a tap of the throttle and it will be fine.

[4Reak Show]

Originally Posted by MFMG2019

I just bought a 99 4runner s/c. It's in really great shape, no rust. 160k on it. First Gen charger. I've personally changed oil, oil filter, fuel filter, new belts, plugs, plug wires, coil packs. Re checking plugs tomorrow. New intake system. Cleaned TB. The problem is at low idle is will try to die out. If I put the pedal to the floor, it will line right out. But no check light. It spots and sputters under 2500 and as soon as I floor it, it will run strong. Tries to die out at low idle everytime. Sorry for the poor Grammer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It also has been sitting for 1.5 years in a building.

I’m not sure about the first gen SC, but the 2nd gen for sure needs a check valve installed on the IAC vacuum hose. They run funky without

[MFMG2019]

I'll definitely try it. I'm going to check the injectors today also

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by MFMG2019

I just bought a 99 4runner s/c. It's in really great shape, no rust. 160k on it. First Gen charger. I've personally changed oil, oil filter, fuel filter, new belts, plugs, plug wires, coil packs. Re checking plugs tomorrow. New intake system. Cleaned TB. Cleaned the maf and iac.The problem is at low idle is will try to die out. If I put the pedal to the floor, it will line right out. But no check light. It spots and sputters under 2500 and as soon as I floor it, it will run strong. Tries to die out at low idle everytime. Sorry for the poor Grammer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It also has been sitting for 1.5 years in a building. Mostly happens while driving. Parked and in neutral it will low idol but I can give just a tap of the throttle and it will be fine.

Water in the gas? Bad gas potentially?

If not gas, I would also suspect a mis-routed hose causing a vacuum leak or something missing. There's like 6 different vacuum hose routing options for this engine so it is easy to get it wrong or have the wrong diagram. Use the TRD manual here to find yours:

https://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomam...4LSCInstal.pdf

[Devbot]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

It's not exactly a quick job but dropping the transmission pan would be what you are after. The transmission is all fluid, gears and clutch plates and is fairly mechanical. The first thing you'll notice with a failing transmission is metal shavings in the fluid that is caught by the magnets on the bottom of the pan. Fine powder that doesn't overwhelm the magnet is fine but any shiny brass or large slivers. This is what a healthy pan and magnet looks like:



This is what a failing transmission pan looks like. Note the large fragments strewn about:

Yeah I knew of that, I was thinking something more in depth. I just had my trans flushed and filter replaced a couple years ago so I doubt it would tell me much anyways
I guess I'll stay n/a until I need a whole new motor now that I've read a little more about it. There's just too many things to gamble IMO; trans, head gaskets, valvetrain... My car runs good for 300k but knowing my luck it'd turn into a nightmare

[jmh139]

I thought I would post this here in case it could help someone. I bought a 2nd Gen TRD supercharger for my 98 that turned out to have a bad rotor pack. Something metal had traveled through the rotor pack and messed up the timing and damaged the blades (It made LOTS of noise at idle). A replacement rotor pack from several of the rebuilders was quoted from $900-$2000 so I wanted to look for something cheaper.

I purchased a 04-07 Cobalt SS supercharger for $100 locally on Facebook marketplace as it looked to be the same m62 pack. It is ALMOST the same. The rear shafts from the rotors turned out to be about 1/4 longer than the TRD rotor packs. Using a caliper to measure everything, this is the only difference I could find. I used an angle die grinder to cut off the 1/4 inch and chamfer the ends and gave it a try. Seems to work perfectly. I went from 4.5 psi of boost to a little over 6 and have no noise. I have driven it a bit now with no issues and wanted to post about it.

I have attached some pictures, one showing the difference in the length of the shaft, one while I am cutting (I took turns cutting slowly to keep the heat down), and one completed. You can see in the pictures I taped everything REALLY well to keep out any metal shavings. I hope this helps someone, the Cobalt superchargers can be bought in my area for $200. Also the coating on the blades is different, it does not flake off like on my TRD rotor. Every Cobalt supercharger I looked at was in great shape.

Also added a bonus picture of our (my son and I) 4runners. His is on the left, supercharged, manual with a locker. The middle one I will probably sell soon as I am not driving it much, manual 162k, supercharged with a locker. And my daily on the right Automatic, supercharged with a locker.

[infamousRNR]

Does anyone know how I can source this dynamic tensioner pulley bolt? mine sheared!


@gamefreakgc
@4Reak Show

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