[gamefreakgc]

A few things:

1. Fill out your MAF skew one more row and column. Normally a cell will average out the cells surrounding it, so if you hit 6.0 PSI at 4500 RPM, it may not actually send a signal of 0.15, it may be lower. So build our your tunes to 5500 RPM's and 7.5 PSI for a stock pulley.

2. Try running closed loop with only the O2 sensor map. I suggest saving your tune you have now, copy the file and zero out the MAF map 4.5 PSI and below. See if the tune stays longer.

3. Is there a reason that at low PSI, you are adding more fuel at 3000 RPM than at 4500 RPM on the MAF? That might be why it's rich.

4. You may not need enrichment in vacuum. Also up to you if you need it at 0 PSI, since that one does affect your MPG's a bit.

[Black798]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

A few things:

1. Fill out your MAF skew one more row and column. Normally a cell will average out the cells surrounding it, so if you hit 6.0 PSI at 4500 RPM, it may not actually send a signal of 0.15, it may be lower. So build our your tunes to 5500 RPM's and 7.5 PSI for a stock pulley.

2. Try running closed loop with only the O2 sensor map. I suggest saving your tune you have now, copy the file and zero out the MAF map 4.5 PSI and below. See if the tune stays longer.

3. Is there a reason that at low PSI, you are adding more fuel at 3000 RPM than at 4500 RPM on the MAF? That might be why it's rich.

4. You may not need enrichment in vacuum. Also up to you if you need it at 0 PSI, since that one does affect your MPG's a bit.

So bit of an update, I zeroed out the maf table and redid my o2 map to be more gradual. I reset the ecu and now have about 40 miles on the tune and it appears that its holding. It seems like I need to let the ecu creep up on the afrs I want rather than making it happen right away. If I force it to go there it eventually catches up and goes even richer. The way its tuned currently I hit the mid 13 AFRs by 2-3 psi and by 4 psi I am into the low 12s where it holds steady there up to 5psi which is where Im maxing out. Well see how it holds over the next few days but I have a decent feeling about it this time.

The weird thing is each time I pull a large grade my AFR goes down to where I want and holds steady, I crest the hill back out of the throttle and the AFRs go back to 14.7 and my fuel trims will then bounce around for awhile going from heavy negative to heavy positive values. As of now Im just ignoring the fuel trims to see if the tune will hold because if it holds then I dont really care where the trims are. I think since I dont have direct control over the injector pulse width like the AEM fic6 does I need larger than usual fuel trims.

[Vooryjoni]

Hi guys, my 1998 Limited V6 has 253k miles... it that too much mileage for me to add a supercharger? Thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Black798]

Originally Posted by Vooryjoni

Hi guys, my 1998 Limited V6 has 253k miles... it that to much mileage for me to add a supercharger? Thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably not. Do a compression test. If the cylinders still make good compression and are consistent I wouldn't hesitate to bolt one on

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by Black798

So bit of an update, I zeroed out the maf table and redid my o2 map to be more gradual. I reset the ecu and now have about 40 miles on the tune and it appears that its holding. It seems like I need to let the ecu creep up on the afrs I want rather than making it happen right away. If I force it to go there it eventually catches up and goes even richer. The way its tuned currently I hit the mid 13 AFRs by 2-3 psi and by 4 psi I am into the low 12s where it holds steady there up to 5psi which is where Im maxing out. Well see how it holds over the next few days but I have a decent feeling about it this time.

The weird thing is each time I pull a large grade my AFR goes down to where I want and holds steady, I crest the hill back out of the throttle and the AFRs go back to 14.7 and my fuel trims will then bounce around for awhile going from heavy negative to heavy positive values. As of now Im just ignoring the fuel trims to see if the tune will hold because if it holds then I dont really care where the trims are. I think since I dont have direct control over the injector pulse width like the AEM fic6 does I need larger than usual fuel trims.

I think you are on the right path. It'll almost be like you have two separate tunes combined in one, O2 sensor only for closed loop, and then MAF for open loop. Once you get past about 60-70% throttle it will switch into open loop and ignore the O2 skew and use your MAF voltages.

Mine does the same thing after a climb. It'll go rich once I get off the throttle, O2 sensor reverses and goes too lean, then evens out. Usually by 1-2 seconds it's back in the high 14's.

Your AFR's are also very good, you don't want 12.0 AFR at 1 PSI, you'll actually lose power. Sounds like you are learning not only how to use the MAP3ECU, but also how to work with the stock ECU.

[Vooryjoni]

Thanks Black798, will do.

[Black798]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

I think you are on the right path. It'll almost be like you have two separate tunes combined in one, O2 sensor only for closed loop, and then MAF for open loop. Once you get past about 60-70% throttle it will switch into open loop and ignore the O2 skew and use your MAF voltages.

Mine does the same thing after a climb. It'll go rich once I get off the throttle, O2 sensor reverses and goes too lean, then evens out. Usually by 1-2 seconds it's back in the high 14's.

Your AFR's are also very good, you don't want 12.0 AFR at 1 PSI, you'll actually lose power. Sounds like you are learning not only how to use the MAP3ECU, but also how to work with the stock ECU.

Its a lot like trying to get a 5 year old to do exactly what you want every time you ask for it haha. I haven't even bothered tuning open loop yet, I figure I should let the closed loop tune stick first that way the open loop tune has a consistent foundation to build off. I rarely go into open loop anyway and as it is the motor runs plenty safe because as soon as it hits open loop I drop to low 10s for the AFR. Kinda surprising knowing how limited the fuel system is.

On my original closed loop tune I was hitting the 12s as soon as the motor saw boost and not only was it destroying my fuel economy it always felt like the power delivery was really spongy for a lack of better term. Really torquey but no real punch to it. If it stays driving how it is now though I think I will be happy with it and Ill feel comfortable throwing the 2.2 pulley on. I should be able to tell by the end of the week

[tlovick]

Hey 798,
Mine is a 2001 SR5 4x 3.6L supercharged.

I recently had a check engine code for MAF sensor which I replaced. Now I have a check engine code for P0171 bank1. I don't have a handheld computer, just a code reader. I understand that a lean condition may not necessarily be the air-fuel ratio sensor.
1. What can I do other than manually check for pirate air leaks?
2. Can you recommend a decent handheld device <$100?

T

[Black798]

Originally Posted by tlovick

Hey 798,
Mine is a 2001 SR5 4x 3.6L supercharged.

I recently had a check engine code for MAF sensor which I replaced. Now I have a check engine code for P0171 bank1. I don't have a handheld computer, just a code reader. I understand that a lean condition may not necessarily be the air-fuel ratio sensor.
1. What can I do other than manually check for pirate air leaks?
2. Can you recommend a decent handheld device <$100?

T

What conditions are causing the lean code. Is it under load? Idle? or just cruising? That will change the list of what could be causing it. I would imagine if you had a vacuum leak causing it the leak would be very significant. How old is your current bank 1 sensor? If it has more than 90k miles on it I would replace it anyway.

Not sure what you mean by handheld computer, I use my regular laptop for interfacing with my piggy back and a scangauge 2 for looking at my fuel trims and other obd data. I also have a harbor freight code reader that has the ability to data log and view it real time which has served me well in the past.

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by tlovick

Hey 798,
Mine is a 2001 SR5 4x 3.6L supercharged.

I recently had a check engine code for MAF sensor which I replaced. Now I have a check engine code for P0171 bank1. I don't have a handheld computer, just a code reader. I understand that a lean condition may not necessarily be the air-fuel ratio sensor.
1. What can I do other than manually check for pirate air leaks?
2. Can you recommend a decent handheld device <$100?

T

9 out of 10 times it's a vacuum leak. Check your intake tube & hoses and look up Eric the Car Guy's video on how to check for a vacuum leak if you don't find any obvious offenders, he uses carb cleaner and propane. I've done both and it works very well.

[nchacon1984]

Every since I got my 7th injector kit installed my 4x4 hasnt work. I was thinking maybe the shop disconnected something and didnt reconnect after installation. I bought my SC from a friend but apparently he didnt give me all the parts

I found this little guy which I think is the culprit to my 4x4 not engaging.


I see it connected here but not on the other end.


So i checked out the install instruction on the SC group on FB and noticed that I need this Tee for it




Does anyone know of an alternative way to connect this or the diameter Tee I need that I can find at Home Depot or something?

[4Reak Show]

You can try one of these. Should be available at any local auto parts store like o-reileys or autozone

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Black798]

Originally Posted by nchacon1984

Every since I got my 7th injector kit installed my 4x4 hasnt work. I was thinking maybe the shop disconnected something and didnt reconnect after installation. I bought my SC from a friend but apparently he didnt give me all the parts

I found this little guy which I think is the culprit to my 4x4 not engaging.
Attachment 339209

I see it connected here but not on the other end.
Attachment 339210

So i checked out the install instruction on the SC group on FB and noticed that I need this Tee for it
Attachment 339211

Attachment 339212

Does anyone know of an alternative way to connect this or the diameter Tee I need that I can find at Home Depot or something?

Mine is connected to the same vacuum port that the vacuum throttle opener is connected to. Works like a charm and no need to find a off sized t fitting since the vacuum opener and the 4x4 vsv use the same diameter pipe

[nchacon1984]

Originally Posted by 4Reak Show

You can try one of these. Should be available at any local auto parts store like o-reileys or autozone

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

You are the man. Got one and it worked.

[infamousRNR]

Attention freaks! @4Reak Show & @gamefreakgc

I couldn’t find it in this thread but do you know where to source the rear bearings for a black SC rebuild?

Also, do you know if you have to extract the bearings or can you press/hammer them out?....


. Thanks my dudes!