[Ryance39]

With the help of a buddy, I installed the supercharger this weekend and things went without a hitch for the most part.
[IMG][/IMG]

Excuse my dirty engine bay but here it is!

It drives really nice and the extra power is great. I don't believe I am having any ping at this point. But I am getting a check engine light for PO171, which is a "lean bank 1" code and that's causing me to run pretty rich.

I've heard multiple things and hope folks can help me out. I basically uninstalled the supercharger and retorqued everything to makes sure I have no vacuum leaks. After that, I reset the code, drove for 25 minutes or so, then it came back. I don't have access to a smoke machine at this point so I'm flying a little blind here, but is it a safe assumption that with all things torqued properly, the MAF being clean, and no obvious leaks that it could actually be a bad o2 sensor? Not having ever had the code before, could the act of simply installing the S/C caused it to go bad on the initial startup?

[Toy2play]

Originally Posted by Ryance39

With the help of a buddy, I installed the supercharger this weekend and things went without a hitch for the most part.
[IMG][/IMG]

Excuse my dirty engine bay but here it is!

It drives really nice and the extra power is great. I don't believe I am having any ping at this point. But I am getting a check engine light for PO171, which is a "lean bank 1" code and that's causing me to run pretty rich.

I've heard multiple things and hope folks can help me out. I basically uninstalled the supercharger and retorqued everything to makes sure I have no vacuum leaks. After that, I reset the code, drove for 25 minutes or so, then it came back. I don't have access to a smoke machine at this point so I'm flying a little blind here, but is it a safe assumption that with all things torqued properly, the MAF being clean, and no obvious leaks that it could actually be a bad o2 sensor? Not having ever had the code before, could the act of simply installing the S/C caused it to go bad on the initial startup?

You would think that you have a vacuum leak somewhere if it happened right after installing the supercharger. Did you replace the throttle body gasket with a new on and install it in the right orientation? There's a different throttle body gasket for the supercharger and sometimes it can be lined up incorrectly causing a leak.

I've had the same code pop and it was in fact the front o2 sensor, but I dont think it's the case in your situation since you weren't getting it before the install.

[Ryance39]

Originally Posted by Toy2play

You would think that you have a vacuum leak somewhere if it happened right after installing the supercharger. Did you replace the throttle body gasket with a new on and install it in the right orientation? There's a different throttle body gasket for the supercharger and sometimes it can be lined up incorrectly causing a leak.

I've had the same code pop and it was in fact the front o2 sensor, but I dont think it's the case in your situation since you weren't getting it before the install.

I did replace the throttle body gasket with a new and correct one. As well as the intake gasket.

[Toy2play]

Originally Posted by Ryance39

I did replace the throttle body gasket with a new and correct one. As well as the intake gasket.

And you are sure it was properly installed? I cant say for sure the intake gasket, but I know the throttle body gasket can be installed incorrectly and cause a leak. P0171 if I remember correctly can happen due to a vacuum leak downstream of the Maf sensor. Usually vacuum leak, bad maf, or up stream o2 sensor. At least that's how I diagnosed mine when I had the code. Mine ended up being the o2 sensor. I think I remember someone suggesting using starter fluid/carb cleaner to spray around areas where you think the leak is and listen to the engine idle higher. I guess you could search for ways to track down an air leak. If you can completely eliminate that then move onto the next. They say o2 sensors should be replaced every 100k miles so it if hasn't been changed, chalk it up to preventative maintenance and eliminate that potential. Still dont think it would be that.

Wish I could be more helpful. Maybe someone else can add something more useful.

[Ryance39]

Originally Posted by Toy2play

And you are sure it was properly installed? I cant say for sure the intake gasket, but I know the throttle body gasket can be installed incorrectly and cause a leak. P0171 if I remember correctly can happen due to a vacuum leak downstream of the Maf sensor. Usually vacuum leak, bad maf, or up stream o2 sensor. At least that's how I diagnosed mine when I had the code. Mine ended up being the o2 sensor. I think I remember someone suggesting using starter fluid/carb cleaner to spray around areas where you think the leak is and listen to the engine idle higher. I guess you could search for ways to track down an air leak. If you can completely eliminate that then move onto the next. They say o2 sensors should be replaced every 100k miles so it if hasn't been changed, chalk it up to preventative maintenance and eliminate that potential. Still dont think it would be that.

Wish I could be more helpful. Maybe someone else can add something more useful.

I appreciate the help. I suppose there is always a way it could have been installed incorrectly, but it really only goes on one way. I cleaned the MAF last night and reset everything so we'll see if that helps. I'm traveling on business the next few days so I won't be able to try anything else until the weekend, so we'll see.

[Ryance39]

So I think my hours of reading has helped out.
Last night I cleaned the MAF really well, reset the codes, and left the negative terminal unhooked all night.
This morning I went out, conveyed the terminal and cranked it up. It ran smooth, no codes, temps were good, and even the AFR code I input in my scan gauge worked for what I’ll call “directional” AFR readings.

I just drove about 40 miles, mix of city and highway, high revs, low revs and everything in between and it seems to be running perfect and smooth. Hoping my PO171 was as simple as cleaning the MAF.

I also read, and want to confirm I read it right, that the knock sensors on this motor do not register codes unless revs are over 3k. The ping we all worry about typically comes below 3k, is that right?

[MarkamisPrime]

Alright so someone else has had to had this issue
Tranny cable is too short.
Is there a part number for a longer one?
Not really any possibilities for rerouting it.

[wrench.n.wheel]

Originally Posted by MarkamisPrime

Alright so someone else has had to had this issue
Tranny cable is too short.
Is there a part number for a longer one?
Not really any possibilities for rerouting it.

I undid the bracket near the tranny and kinda wiggled it on the side of the engine to make it work.

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by MarkamisPrime

Alright so someone else has had to had this issue
Tranny cable is too short.
Is there a part number for a longer one?
Not really any possibilities for rerouting it.

Re-route it. There's only one length. It won't fit completely in the bracket like it used to before the supercharger, un-clip it, bolt it in and then clip as much as you can back in.

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by Ryance39

So I think my hours of reading has helped out.
Last night I cleaned the MAF really well, reset the codes, and left the negative terminal unhooked all night.
This morning I went out, conveyed the terminal and cranked it up. It ran smooth, no codes, temps were good, and even the AFR code I input in my scan gauge worked for what I’ll call “directional” AFR readings.

I just drove about 40 miles, mix of city and highway, high revs, low revs and everything in between and it seems to be running perfect and smooth. Hoping my PO171 was as simple as cleaning the MAF.

I also read, and want to confirm I read it right, that the knock sensors on this motor do not register codes unless revs are over 3k. The ping we all worry about typically comes below 3k, is that right?

That's correct. If you have an auto, I recommend keeping ECT Power on full-time since it helps raise the shift points and lessens the chance of the engine pinging. If it's a manual, should be pretty simple

[MarkamisPrime]

Originally Posted by wrench.n.wheel

I undid the bracket near the tranny and kinda wiggled it on the side of the engine to make it work.

I did this
One 10mm bolt and un clipped the top clip pulled upward and got even a lot more slack than I needed.
I had to max out the adjustment, I guess I could pull it back down but I left it and was even able to put the bolt back through the bracket as if nothing had ever been touched.

[Ryance39]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

That's correct. If you have an auto, I recommend keeping ECT Power on full-time since it helps raise the shift points and lessens the chance of the engine pinging. If it's a manual, should be pretty simple

Thank you. I always run with ECT on. I’ve heard/driven into ping once that was noticeable. Other than that I have been able to avoid it.

After having the 4Runner sit all week, the PO171 is back on, triggering the check engine light. On the drive home everything seemed to run correct, even MPG seemed reasonable. I don’t want to start throwing parts at it but do want to get this resolved.

I’ve read mixed things about running without fuel mods or in “stock” form, but some folks have said the check engine light can be on for a little while then eventually the ECU will relearn and the light will go out. Some people say it can take a few tanks of gas. As a group do we agree that’s true?

[Bigmd]

Ok been planning a supercharger build for the last year. I had OBX headers installed two years ago because my manifolds were leaking and figured while i was in there mine as well. I’ve piecing it all together and this is what i have . I scored a rebuilt 1st gen supercharger with all new parts for a deal too good to pass up. I installed a Devils Own universal kit to come on with any boost. Also wired in a Kenne Bell boost a pump . I’ve read this with the meth can handle fuel issues . I’ve bought the recommended colder plugs and Toyota thermostat . Boost gauge and AF gauge are already installed. The supercharger has factory pulley on it and I plan on running it for now . But would I be able to step it up to the next smaller size without any further modifications? Also I’m running factory exhaust after headers . Will this kill any performance. I like how quiet factory system is . Thanks in advance

[4Reak Show]

Originally Posted by Ryance39

I’ve read mixed things about running without fuel mods or in “stock” form, but some folks have said the check engine light can be on for a little while then eventually the ECU will relearn and the light will go out. Some people say it can take a few tanks of gas. As a group do we agree that’s true?

Nope. The ECM's adaptive strategies are pretty basic overall. So I really really doubt it's a "learning" issue. My money is that rear passenger supercharger bolt is a turn too loose. That's all it took for mine to be an issue. Have you done the brake cleaner test? Keep the straw on it and pinpoint any vacuum leaks by a slight change in engine rpm. That or a smoke test.

Stock intake: no codes
SC installed: P0171

Seems pretty clear the installation of SC has created a vacuum leak. Time to find it. Don't waste money on parts.

[Ryance39]

Originally Posted by 4Reak Show

Nope. The ECM's adaptive strategies are pretty basic overall. So I really really doubt it's a "learning" issue. My money is that rear passenger supercharger bolt is a turn too loose. That's all it took for mine to be an issue. Have you done the brake cleaner test? Keep the straw on it and pinpoint any vacuum leaks by a slight change in engine rpm. That or a smoke test.

Stock intake: no codes
SC installed: P0171

Seems pretty clear the installation of SC has created a vacuum leak. Time to find it. Don't waste money on parts.

Right, I’m thinking the same. I’ve got a buddy that can bring is smoke machine over on Thursday and will test it then.

I took some time and did some spraying around vacuum points yesterday and didn’t get any odd/spiking or dipping idles, so I’m hoping the smoke will make it abundantly clear. I checked the torque on the front and rear bolts and both are right on spec. The two near the throttle body are a little more challenging to get A torque wrench on but they feel as tight. We’ll see, I appreciate everyone’s help. I’m loving the SC so far, just want to get it all buttoned up.