04-02-2020, 01:19 PM
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#3796
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
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Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Co4Fun
Oh man I have learned a lot on this. So I have an extra ECU. I bought it at the local yard and it is the EXACT part number for my rig per Vin#. I swapped it and another from the yard, twice both...so I am pretty familiar with the process now as you can imagine.
Both of these yard ECU's would crank but not fire. Utterly confused and without any help from the yard guy (who also thought this was before the era of flashing etc.) I started calling around, the dealer, mechanics etc. So in 1999 the LIMITED model only had the ECU "flashed" or correlated to the keys somehow. To get the other yard ECU to work I would have to get it "flashed" or "coded" to my current keys. And then, only that one would work...you can't have more than one flashed to the keys for some reason. So, since the yard guy will not take this back I have this ECU but would have to pay another $150-200 to get it flashed. Ugh.
So I put this on hold for now but I have the ECU. The one in my truck says it's "Remanufactured for Toyota by Denso." I don't like that, it's not original. the dealer convinced me though that it's because at some point someone lost keys and had to get a reman to go in there. He and another mech are saying it's so doubtful it's the ECU at all...sort of it works or doesn't and this one in the truck...the reman it does work. So we'll see. My mech said he'll chase the circuit back before trying the other ECU.
Anyway, that's the story on that.
I think replacing the harness is your best bet considering your situation. BUT, you'll have to see when you get in there. If it's crispy then that's a good sign that's likely it. Mine was not which was actually concerning since my codes (both banks) were intermittent too. I guess the only risk is time...having to crack back into it if that doesn't do it. Since I paid my mech to do that I'm out the money. And the funny thing was I did it to save time (I actually wrench quite a bit but am working and coaching full time.) LOL, if I'd only known because now without coaching I could have tackled it myself.
LMK how yours goes.
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Gotcha, yours has the full blown security system and key fob huh. Sorry you had to go through all that. I thought you had meant getting the ECU to be flashed to adjust fuel and ignition timing, which on more modern or more accessible ECU's can be done. Gosh I wish we could on ours. Even the 5th Gen 4Runner's can have the fuel maps flashed.
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04-02-2020, 02:16 PM
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#3797
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 165
Real Name: Grant
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 165
Real Name: Grant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc
Gotcha, yours has the full blown security system and key fob huh. Sorry you had to go through all that. I thought you had meant getting the ECU to be flashed to adjust fuel and ignition timing, which on more modern or more accessible ECU's can be done. Gosh I wish we could on ours. Even the 5th Gen 4Runner's can have the fuel maps flashed.
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Ya and maybe "flashing" isn't the correct term but somehow the ECU has to be correlated to my keys. Again, that's JUST on the LIMITED 3rd gens apparently. It was a new deal in 99.
And, you are right, I have heard from many during this that it is indeed a bummer that we can't "flash" fuel maps and such like newer generations but they point out that's just because all that tech was new back in 99. 3rd gens were just before they had it all figured out. For all the great things about our generation, the tech was just antiquated in this regard. But, I just looked over at my 1st gen and laugh. That's like Atari level fuel injection tech there lol. And for me, maybe I prefer that. I'll take fuel injection for wheeling but some of the other tech I might rather do without. I'm getting old, an analog guy in a digital world. If it was up to me I'd still have hand crank roll down windows. I say that but then I get into my wife's GX and turn on the seat warmer and think, "well that's kind of nice."
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1999 Limited - TRD Supercharger
3" Toytech Coilover, 1" body, HD rear Springs
285/75/r17 C Nitto Ridge Grapplers
Custom Bumpers and Sliders
Golden, CO
Last edited by Co4Fun; 04-02-2020 at 02:21 PM.
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04-02-2020, 07:30 PM
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#3798
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Western CO
Posts: 1,227
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Western CO
Posts: 1,227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Co4Fun
Just update on this. I checked and the FMU mod is done on mine! PO or installer did it. So that's cool but won't help with this issue since it's already done.
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One more question - how old is the front factory O2 sensor / is it the correct one? Do you have a second wideband O2?
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2000 4Runner Sport - TRD&AEM SuperCharged
Solo Long Travel & KING 2.5 & bumps, 4th gen rear axle & KING 2.5 12's
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04-03-2020, 03:22 PM
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#3799
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 165
Real Name: Grant
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 165
Real Name: Grant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rideexileex
One more question - how old is the front factory O2 sensor / is it the correct one? Do you have a second wideband O2?
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That's another good suggestion. I'll have to check it out. I think my year '99 only has the one.
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1999 Limited - TRD Supercharger
3" Toytech Coilover, 1" body, HD rear Springs
285/75/r17 C Nitto Ridge Grapplers
Custom Bumpers and Sliders
Golden, CO
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04-09-2020, 04:33 PM
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#3800
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 61
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 61
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URD 7th Injector install Q
My rig: 1997 4runner Limited 3.4l 4x4
Just got a 7th Injector kit. I have the 1st gen gray top SC with the Fuel Management kit (FMU) from the dealer. I dont have the pressure regulator in the fuel rail anymore. Do I have to replace the Regulator in the rail and remove the FMU before installing the kit? Or can I just use the FMU as the regulator, and follow the directions and use the FMU as the regulator?
Also,
I replaced my engine recently. Previous motor blew the head gasket at 223k. I dropped a used one from a 2004 tacoma with 60k on it and put the SC on the replacement motor. The truck feels more sluggish now with the replacement motor than it did with the original motor. No engine lights, no codes, all plugs are put in the same as they were before. Any ideas why it would feel sluggish?
I can hear the SC whine, but It doesnt feel like it has the pickup like the old motor used to, feels almost as if its slightly suffocating to an extent. And it might all be in my head as well...but kind of feels like its the passenger side of the motor.
Last edited by mkzg; 04-09-2020 at 04:34 PM.
Reason: added model year
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04-09-2020, 05:09 PM
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#3801
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
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Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkzg
My rig: 1997 4runner Limited 3.4l 4x4
Just got a 7th Injector kit. I have the 1st gen gray top SC with the Fuel Management kit (FMU) from the dealer. I dont have the pressure regulator in the fuel rail anymore. Do I have to replace the Regulator in the rail and remove the FMU before installing the kit? Or can I just use the FMU as the regulator, and follow the directions and use the FMU as the regulator?
Also,
I replaced my engine recently. Previous motor blew the head gasket at 223k. I dropped a used one from a 2004 tacoma with 60k on it and put the SC on the replacement motor. The truck feels more sluggish now with the replacement motor than it did with the original motor. No engine lights, no codes, all plugs are put in the same as they were before. Any ideas why it would feel sluggish?
I can hear the SC whine, but It doesnt feel like it has the pickup like the old motor used to, feels almost as if its slightly suffocating to an extent. And it might all be in my head as well...but kind of feels like its the passenger side of the motor.
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Re-check you vacuum lines. Depending on what accessories and intake you used, you might need to re-route the vacuum and boost lines. Probably has a boost leak. The vacuum routing for an 04 Tacoma is different than a 97 4Runner.
If you install the pump in the tank, that eliminates the need for the FMU. But if you don't have the stock regulator, you can keep it on there.
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04-09-2020, 05:38 PM
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#3802
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 61
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc
Re-check you vacuum lines. Depending on what accessories and intake you used, you might need to re-route the vacuum and boost lines. Probably has a boost leak. The vacuum routing for an 04 Tacoma is different than a 97 4Runner.
If you install the pump in the tank, that eliminates the need for the FMU. But if you don't have the stock regulator, you can keep it on there.
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I removed any differences between the 04 and 97...so the vaccum routing should match the 97. there are no differences between the heads/blocks. Only differences were the vaccum lines on the PS pump and intake tubes, which i am using the 4runner setup.
Ill double check those things again
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04-09-2020, 08:46 PM
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#3803
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 61
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkzg
My rig: 1997 4runner Limited 3.4l 4x4
Just got a 7th Injector kit. I have the 1st gen gray top SC with the Fuel Management kit (FMU) from the dealer. I dont have the pressure regulator in the fuel rail anymore. Do I have to replace the Regulator in the rail and remove the FMU before installing the kit? Or can I just use the FMU as the regulator, and follow the directions and use the FMU as the regulator?
Also,
I replaced my engine recently. Previous motor blew the head gasket at 223k. I dropped a used one from a 2004 tacoma with 60k on it and put the SC on the replacement motor. The truck feels more sluggish now with the replacement motor than it did with the original motor. No engine lights, no codes, all plugs are put in the same as they were before. Any ideas why it would feel sluggish?
I can hear the SC whine, but It doesnt feel like it has the pickup like the old motor used to, feels almost as if its slightly suffocating to an extent. And it might all be in my head as well...but kind of feels like its the passenger side of the motor.
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Alright...Solved...I feel dumb.
I checked EVERYTHING multiple times, drove for hundreds of miles trying to figure it out. and all this time I overlooked the Air Filter. It should have occured to me sooner...but didnt. Pulled it out and it was caked in dust. shook it out and a cloud of dirt fell out. after I got it all cleaned (will get a new one after I go to the parts store again) and put it back, its a new life breathed into the engine! the power is back!
A great reminder...if something feels off, always always always check the simple and basics first.
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04-12-2020, 02:40 AM
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#3804
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 187
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamer
Completed the wiring harness on the URD harness kit this morning. I went this way in case I ever need to remove it, and it was easier to work on outside of the car.
Just need to clip the zip ties off and its ready to go.
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Nice!! Was literally getting ready to cut my harness tonight when someone told me about this new harness extension. Will be ordering this ASAP! Did it come with good instructions on how to use the harness extender?
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04-12-2020, 09:14 AM
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#3805
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 784
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 784
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Wish that was available 10 years ago when I did mine
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04-12-2020, 10:00 AM
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#3806
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Member
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 931
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 931
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Soldered ten+ connections into the ECU harness while in the car... that was a tremendous pain in the ass but also a one way ticket, (with questionable penetration). Wish I knew this was available last week before I installed mine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy
Wish that was available 10 years ago when I did mine
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04-12-2020, 10:06 AM
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#3807
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Northern California
Age: 37
Posts: 1,471
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Northern California
Age: 37
Posts: 1,471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDmtnbkr
Nice!! Was literally getting ready to cut my harness tonight when someone told me about this new harness extension. Will be ordering this ASAP! Did it come with good instructions on how to use the harness extender?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy
Wish that was available 10 years ago when I did mine
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I made mine removable on my own. Digging around the junk yard I found 2 sets of mating connectors, of different colors. So plugging matching colors in makes the URD installed. Other way to remove or bypass URD unit.
This method became incredibly tricky however... 6 wires came from the harness to feed the URD (crank, cam, 02 intercept, power, ground and ignition tap) but only 3 wires came back from the URD back to the main computer (crank, cam 02 return). So going this route requires patience, planning and a good skill in the art of soldering.
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The 4Reak Show: 1995 4Runner, 3.4 swapped, manual conversion, supercharged & 7th injected, Eaton TrueTrac in rear, poly bushings F&R, lots of other outrageous add ons...
Wife's: 2016 Trail Premium, bone stock until she joins T4R.org one day...
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04-12-2020, 02:31 PM
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#3808
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
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Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDmtnbkr
Nice!! Was literally getting ready to cut my harness tonight when someone told me about this new harness extension. Will be ordering this ASAP! Did it come with good instructions on how to use the harness extender?
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No, it's just the patch harness. You have to know what pins and wires are the ones to tap based on looking at the ECU pins and connectors. An electrical wiring diagram is highly recommended for your year and trim level.
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04-12-2020, 05:27 PM
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#3809
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Napa
Posts: 784
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Napa
Posts: 784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Reak Show
I made mine removable on my own. Digging around the junk yard I found 2 sets of mating connectors, of different colors. So plugging matching colors in makes the URD installed. Other way to remove or bypass URD unit.
This method became incredibly tricky however... 6 wires came from the harness to feed the URD (crank, cam, 02 intercept, power, ground and ignition tap) but only 3 wires came back from the URD back to the main computer (crank, cam 02 return). So going this route requires patience, planning and a good skill in the art of soldering.
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So this is only needed for the 7th injector ?
Seems like way to much trouble imo
Why not just upgrade injectors and maybe a fuel pump?
What makes it that much better??
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2012 TRD Tacoma wheels
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04-12-2020, 06:58 PM
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#3810
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Bozeman, Montana
Age: 25
Posts: 917
Real Name: Phoenix
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Bozeman, Montana
Age: 25
Posts: 917
Real Name: Phoenix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkamisPrime
So this is only needed for the 7th injector ?
Seems like way to much trouble imo
Why not just upgrade injectors and maybe a fuel pump?
What makes it that much better??
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The stock ecu doesnt understand boost. Its programmed to target 14.7 afr all the time regardless of boost or not. Only time it will run richer than that is on startup or at WOT. Even if you upgrade the injectors and pump it wont do a thing unless you have a piggyback wired in to fool the ecu into running richer afrs under boost. Personally I think the URD 7th and associated piggyback are junk and theres far better more effective forms of tuning these motors but they all require a piggyback thats hard wired in.
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