[jman11788]

Supercharger installed!! Man it’s feels so good! Should have done it forever ago ! Only issue I’m facing right now is my tranny is shifting hard like the kick down cable is too tight. I’ve adjusted it back and forth and it changes a little bit but it doesn’t shift as smooth as it did before.
Wondering if I have been driving too aggressive already with the S/C 🧐

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by jman11788

Supercharger installed!! Man it’s feels so good! Should have done it forever ago ! Only issue I’m facing right now is my tranny is shifting hard like the kick down cable is too tight. I’ve adjusted it back and forth and it changes a little bit but it doesn’t shift as smooth as it did before.
Wondering if I have been driving too aggressive already with the S/C 🧐

The cable is tricky to route correctly. I had that happen after my engine swap where it shifted super hard. I found out that the cable had broken off at the bracket where it enters the transmission. A quick fix and we were good again. Also make sure you eliminate every fraction of an inch of slack going up along the exhaust and the engine hanger. I had to bend the hanger clips a bit to get a more direct route.

[busmup808]

Anybody got the 2 bracket for the throttle cable and other cable for sale? My used charger came with the single throttle bracket.


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[busmup808]

This is what I need


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[MarkamisPrime]

I had to swap my cousin brackets when I got mine luckily it worked

[jman11788]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

The cable is tricky to route correctly. I had that happen after my engine swap where it shifted super hard. I found out that the cable had broken off at the bracket where it enters the transmission. A quick fix and we were good again. Also make sure you eliminate every fraction of an inch of slack going up along the exhaust and the engine hanger. I had to bend the hanger clips a bit to get a more direct route.

Yeah, ive played with the adjustment a lot. Pulled all the slack out where it goes to the tranny. Only shifts hard when accelerating. You can feel it when i shift form park to drive/reverse too. Will a new cable help? I can't seem to soften the shifting at all

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by jman11788

Yeah, ive played with the adjustment a lot. Pulled all the slack out where it goes to the tranny. Only shifts hard when accelerating. You can feel it when i shift form park to drive/reverse too. Will a new cable help? I can't seem to soften the shifting at all

No, cables don't shorten over time, they stretch. If anything a new one would be marginally shorter. Plus you'd have to take apart the transmission and valve body to hook up the cable, it attaches internally to the transmission.

I would get under the vehicle and see if yours also broke on the plastic bracket that holds down the kick-down cable. If fine, then unclip everything exhaust up to the throttle body so it's completely loose and then readjust the kickdown cable. The little 'knub' on the cable should be flush to slightly protruding to the rubber grommet on the end of the cable. If you want, you can overtighten by 2-3 mm so it downshifts more often into the power band. However if it's more than that you get the hard shifts like what you have right now. I'd guess it's more like 5mm protruding?

[jman11788]

Well it almost seems as if I need some tranny and motor mounts. If I have the hood raised while in park and shift to drive/reverse, I can peak through the windshield and see my engine move quite a bit. It’s a good “clunk” but it definitely wasn’t like the before I added the S/C. I’m going to keep playing with the cable.. does the slack need to be tighter coming from the tranny or throttle body ?

I’m gonna check underneath and see if it broke off the clips first and go from there

[jman11788]

Originally Posted by jman11788

Well it almost seems as if I need some tranny and motor mounts. If I have the hood raised while in park and shift to drive/reverse, I can peak through the windshield and see my engine move quite a bit. It’s a good “clunk” but it definitely wasn’t like the before I added the S/C. I’m going to keep playing with the cable.. does the slack need to be tighter coming from the tranny or throttle body ?

I’m gonna check underneath and see if it broke off the clips first and go from there

Update: Played around with the cable and it shifts a whole lot better now ! I’m not really sure what I did to solve it. I basically loosened it to the max like I have before but I think I pulled the slack from the tranny this time.. who knows ! Problem solved

[nhenscheid]

Hi everyone -

I just started pulling apart my 1st gen SC with the intent to refurb the nose cone and hopefully replace the rear needle bearings as well. Two questions that have cropped up:

1. Is there a trick to removing the rotor pack/rotor plate? On the 1st gen, there isn't a lip or any sort of tabs on the rotor plate to pry against. The nose cone has nice tabs to pry it off, but the plate seems quite stuck and isn't responding to general tapping. Should I (or shouldn't I) apply some heat to try and release the gasket bond?

2. Is it OK to just replace the rear needle bearings and not mess with the rotor plate bearings (and corresponding seals)? Contingent on the front rotor bearings feeling OK, of course.

Thanks!

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by nhenscheid

Hi everyone -

I just started pulling apart my 1st gen SC with the intent to refurb the nose cone and hopefully replace the rear needle bearings as well. Two questions that have cropped up:

1. Is there a trick to removing the rotor pack/rotor plate? On the 1st gen, there isn't a lip or any sort of tabs on the rotor plate to pry against. The nose cone has nice tabs to pry it off, but the plate seems quite stuck and isn't responding to general tapping. Should I (or shouldn't I) apply some heat to try and release the gasket bond?

2. Is it OK to just replace the rear needle bearings and not mess with the rotor plate bearings (and corresponding seals)? Contingent on the front rotor bearings feeling OK, of course.

Thanks!

1. Heat is ok, within reason. The supercharger housing is made to withstand very high heat. It should start to tap free.

2. Yes. The rotor bearings can be done incorrectly and are very complex compared to the rest. Unless you see very bad circular scoring on the back of the rotor housing (around the rear needle bearings) then assume they are fine.

[nhenscheid]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

1. Heat is ok, within reason. The supercharger housing is made to withstand very high heat. It should start to tap free.

2. Yes. The rotor bearings can be done incorrectly and are very complex compared to the rest. Unless you see very bad circular scoring on the back of the rotor housing (around the rear needle bearings) then assume they are fine.

Excellent, thanks a ton!

[nhenscheid]

Another quick question - does anyone know the correct spec for the little 10mm nut that holds the rotor housing onto the manifold? This little guy:



I kind of mangled it while getting it out. I feel like a standard M6x1 would probably work but it seems like it might be a nylock and/or flange nut.

Any tips?

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by nhenscheid

Another quick question - does anyone know the correct spec for the little 10mm nut that holds the rotor housing onto the manifold? This little guy:


I kind of mangled it while getting it out. I feel like a standard M6x1 would probably work but it seems like it might be a nylock and/or flange nut.

Any tips?

I don't know of any torque spec for that nut. My general rule of thumb for these unknown nuts and bolts are:

14mm = Strong arm it
12mm = Firm and snug
10mm = Slightly more than finger tight

Has yet to let me down.

[nhenscheid]

Sorry, I meant spec as in what size & type of nut to get to replace it with, not torque spec. It just seems like an odd/special size so I thought I'd see if anyone knew a source for it.