[lockedlex]

Was this a Magnusson S/C or the Toyota/TRD Labeled one?

That EO doesn't look right, is that part of a sticker that was provided or is currently installed on your 3rd gen?

[4Reak Show]

D-425-15 is the sticker TRD sent me directly after I installed mine second hand. Same sticker my smog ref ok’d for the engine swap on the same vehicle. It’s also the most up to date one. Another number guys have used is D-425-13. Reading the fine print of that is identical except for effective date. It also says “trucks”. The smog guy is scared.

Wanted to add mine has been smogged 6 times at 3 different shops under that EO sticker. Tailpipe is clean enough to pass and I’ve never had a single syllable of issue from the state. This dude is a weiney. I’d call TRD or Magnuson direct and see if they can tell you which sticker is right and that should end it.

[guyoverfelt]

anyone run a separate ECU like haltech or link?

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by guyoverfelt

anyone run a separate ECU like haltech or link?

Sounds like you've been on the facebook page where just two guys spam the Haltech as the 'cure all for all performance needs'. The Haltech system when you add the ECU, parts, labor and tuning is well over $3,000, about the same as the supercharger itself. I haven't even spent $3,000 in performance parts on my entire build, let alone one component. A standalone ECU like the Haltech replaces the stock ECU completely so if you live in an area that requires smog checks you cannot do it and remain smog legal so keep that in mind. A piggyback ECU is added to the stock ECU and although it technically isn't legal either, it will still pass smog every time. That would include ones like the MAP3ECU, AIM FIC 6, and URD's SplitSecond system.

Any aftermarket ECU, whether a standalone or piggyback, requires a knowledge of your vehicles' wiring as well as basic tuning skills to get it running. It's not for the faint of heart as there is some risk involved (URD's system is the simplest to install). I have some install notes from my piggyback ECU installation if you're interested in the link in my signature, as well as there is a URD 7th injector tuning guide here on the forums.

In my opinion, half the guys flaunting the Haltech are doing it just to shoot flames out the tailpipe with a spark cutout at redline instead of the original fuel cutout. There's a reason why Toyota cuts fuel and not spark. As the guy on facebook who used to respond to every post with 'get a haltech' who just blew his engine up after less than 6 months with the Haltech 'tuned' for his vehicle.

[guyoverfelt]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

link in my signature, as well as there is a URD 7th injector tuning guide here on the forums.

excellent - thank you. def. apprecaite your knowledge on this.

[RandyBobandy]

Is there even a base timing and fuel map for the 5vz to use in a standalone ecu? I have a mega squirt on another car and it would be super hard to tune without a base map. The haltech guy that blew up his engine isn’t the first person I’ve heard about blowing a motor trying to tune a stand-alone ecu

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by RandyBobandy

Is there even a base timing and fuel map for the 5vz to use in a standalone ecu? I have a mega squirt on another car and it would be super hard to tune without a base map. The haltech guy that blew up his engine isn’t the first person I’ve heard about blowing a motor trying to tune a stand-alone ecu

I believe that LCE Performance would be the closest thing as they sell a Haltech kit just for Toyota trucks, although I don't know this for sure. Purchased anywhere else though and you're exactly right, you'd be in the dark as where to start. I don't even know if it comes with things like the spark plug firing order or not.

[TwoToneT4R]

Hey everybody, I just picked up a supercharger off of my friends truck and wanted to get peoples opinions regarding how deeply it should be rebuilt (and what kit I should buy for the rebuild) as the mechanic who took it off the truck said he is willing to rebuild it for me.

This charger has around 230k miles and looks to be in pretty good condition with regular oil changes.

https://youtube.com/shorts/e7SSmVKQEm0?feature=share


I have included a video of the charger running before we took it off the truck. I'm in no rush to get this charger on the truck but want to go down the best possible route to try to eliminate any headaches down the road. Let me know how you guys think it sounds and looks!

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by TwoToneT4R

Hey everybody, I just picked up a supercharger off of my friends truck and wanted to get peoples opinions regarding how deeply it should be rebuilt (and what kit I should buy for the rebuild) as the mechanic who took it off the truck said he is willing to rebuild it for me.

This charger has around 230k miles and looks to be in pretty good condition with regular oil changes.

1999 Supercharger Idling - YouTube


I have included a video of the charger running before we took it off the truck. I'm in no rush to get this charger on the truck but want to go down the best possible route to try to eliminate any headaches down the road. Let me know how you guys think it sounds and looks!

Well, it looks like a 20 year old auto part but thankfully looks don't matter much on a supercharger. I struggled a bit to discern through the audio what was engine and exhaust noise and what was supercharger noise so let's just assume it needs a rebuild. That would be the rear needle bearings in the back of the rotor housing, as well as the nose cone bearings, oil seal and new oil.

I have been using Rolling Performance Home for years, and yes the website really is that old. Get the rebuild kit for the TRD M62 unit, not the others listed on his website and pay for the Viton seal as I've had the older seals leak on me and you don't want to have to do it again. Also pick up a coupler and a set of rear rotor bearings, again the ones for the TRD M62.

The 1st gen or gray superchargers tend to develop vacuum leaks along the gaskets that seal the various intake parts. Make sure these are not leaking but don't disassemble if you do not have to as the gasket may get worse if you do. They are hard to source now so many end up using a liquid gasket and lots of luck.

All in all you should have it rebuild for $200 or less, depending if you need a machine shop to do any presswork for you or if you are more creative like I am and where's there's a will, there's a way.

[I'mStock]

Curious, has anyone successfully rebuilt their bypass valve? Just smoke-tested my intake/vacuum system trying to source my P0171 code and the diaphragm on my 1st gen bypass valve is DONE.

Seeing if I have any options before I spend ~$200 on a new unit.

[T4topher]

I saw a couple months back that magnuson is coming out with a new supercharger for the 3.4. Looked pretty sweet, might have to get one.

[Speedy]

That would be interesting, so Magnuson has continued development on a supercharger for an engine no longer produced?

[T4topher]

Originally Posted by Speedy

That would be interesting, so Magnuson has continued development on a supercharger for an engine no longer produced?

Seems like it, they had it on their Instagram story and said it would be released early this yr. I was surprised as well when I saw it lol.

[Twan]

Would be interesting if they were developing something different, but like already stated, seems kinda odd they'd develop something for an engine they stopped putting in vehicles almost 20 years ago.

I do want to purchase one from them still, but last I heard they had to switch to a press-on pulley instead of the bolt-on, and there aren't any smaller pulley options for that style.

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by I'mStock

Curious, has anyone successfully rebuilt their bypass valve? Just smoke-tested my intake/vacuum system trying to source my P0171 code and the diaphragm on my 1st gen bypass valve is DONE.

Seeing if I have any options before I spend ~$200 on a new unit.

I cannot say it has never been done but if you were attempt to repair it would be the first I have heard of. If you are not depending on the vehicle to run they why not? It is already broken, cannot make it any more broken than it is. Worse case is that you buy a new one.

Originally Posted by Speedy

That would be interesting, so Magnuson has continued development on a supercharger for an engine no longer produced?

They have a prototype that has the newer 4 lobe TVS rotors instead of the old 3 lobe style. It was shown at an auto show late last year. As anyone who has followed the auto industry knows, just because there is a prototype, doesn't mean it will go into production.

The other piece is cost. The current ones are $3,500 new. What would the newer design need to cost to recoup their R&D and manufacturing costs? $5,000? I could buy a whole 4Runner at that price, or just one part that adds 60 HP. Hmm.