The mounting clip is just a "holder" (works about the same as a ziptie does, relatively speaking). The hardline mates with the flex hose and the clip just holds them there at the joint.

You can see it in this caliper replacement vid at the 1:30 mark. https://youtu.be/641Es-7BuIE?t=1m30s

Here's a straight on pic of mine (just had the calipers/hardline/flexhose replaced).

Thank you!!

I would let it be, but I get a slight click from the area when I hit the brakes sometimes and I feel like it must be the clip shifting around.

There is a bracket that bolts on to that triangular mount halfway up the knuckle where the zip tie is (spindle is something else). The bracket has a hole that mates to the flexible brake line and is secured with a clip that looks like a flattened U and engages the groove in the end of the flex line. I may have a pic from my frame swap, if I find it, I'll post.

Did you look at the other side, or are they both that way?

Found some:



The caliper is off in this one, but you can see how the flex line mounts:



You need a bracket for each side:

47351 BRACKET, FLEXIBLE HOSE(FOR FRONT RH)
47351-35270
47352 BRACKET, FLEXIBLE HOSE(FOR FRONT LH)
47352-35310
And a clip for each bracket:
90468-08035

Plus any good little M8 bolt for each bracket.

Thanks! Both sides are that way.

I'm thinking I'm going to have to sit with the parts guy at the local dealership to try to get the correct stuff. Everything on the toyota parts sites is impossible to decipher for little stuff like this.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

I have been quite successful in using the search function for the past 7-8 years or so but this time I am coming up short, thus my apologies for resurrecting an old thread.

My trusty rusty '02 Sport Ed 4WD with 270k on the odo developed a brake line leak due to heavy corrosion near the fitting on the driver side rear outer hard line (see attached images). Upon confirming with the dealer these hard lines have been discontinued some years ago.

I have not been able to source any aftermarket hard line replacements and wanted to ask for opinion on making my own hard line. Two questions:

1. Has anyone found an aftermarket replacement for a P/N 47323?

2. Can anyone confirm the correct size hard line, fitting and flare, please?

From this forum it appears that the correct size hard line diameter is 3/16, the fitting is M10x1.0. But can anyone confirm the type of flare, please?

Thank you very much all,

Ivan from Traverse City, MI

Attached Images

   

Hmm. Most have recently discontinued those rear lines as they were available a year or so ago.

Kinda surprising as they can always make more brake lines...

In any case, you now have only 3 options:

1) See if you can get a used non rusted line from a junk yard.

2) Have a new brake line made out of the copper nickle tubing.

3.) Find an aftermarket line mfg. [ I haven't seen to many of these out there because they were always available]



Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

@brillo_76 , thank you for your input. I will try the local junk yard, however, this area is very heavy on winter salt use, so chances of me finding a non-corroded line are pretty low but it is worth a call.

It seems like the only real option will be to make the line, and that’s where I needed to confirm:

the type of tubing (stainless or copper nickle?)
tubing size (3/16?)
fittings (M10x1.0?)
flare type (double flare?)

Thank you

Have to be from a non rusty junk yard. Yes they are 3/16 double flare.

I just make my own out of nickle copper tubing with stainless steel flare nuts. I get the tubing and nuts off Amazon 10mm ×1.00mm in packs of 10 .

The stop shop stainless steel Metric line invert flare fitting 3/16 tune.



Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

Thank you very much for this useful info. I looked up the fittings and tube at Amazon, seems easy enough... that is until I find out how accessible the line is and how it is actually routed... In looking at it a bit closer I will probably have to replace 47318F hose due to corrosion as well.

Attached Images

 

You going to have to drop the tank unless you reroute the line.

Probably more economical to just buy the replacement rubber hose at an autoparts store. As those can collapse internally with age as well.

I done several of these lines. The 2 back ones are the worst only because they go behind the gas tank and Clip on the coil plate.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

Thanks @brillo_76 for your help. Just wanted to come back and let you know that we were able to successfully replace the rear half of driver side hard line. We cut the lower hard line from the union on the frame (just before the tank) and I was able to grab onto it with wise grips above the rear axle and pull it completely out without too much resistance. Then we routed the new hardline from the front of the tank between the frame and the tank and it actually came out right in the same spot where the old line was (right above the rear driver spring) and we were able to clip it back into the plastic hardline clips on the frame. The only thing that we ran into was that once everything was back together the rear fitting that connects into the rubber hose was dripping; it appeared that the m10 inverted flare was a few threads too short and it just would not make a tight connection, it seemed like the fitting was bottoming out. So, we had to replace that fitting with an M10 bubble flare fitting, which was a little longer and once tightened the drip stopped. Bled the brakes, all good now!

Again, thanks for your help!

Ivan from Traverse City, MI

Glad you got it replaced. That line is one of the harder ones to get replaced. The front line on the same run is interesting as well.

On really rusted lines, it's best to cut the line at the flare nut. That way you can get a deep well 10mm socket to turn the flare nut out.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

Hindsight, there was enough of the original line available and enough room to work a flaring tool up in there since I took a spare off and I could have saved myself some time had I just cut the rusted elbow off at the fitting up to the healthy part of the line (only about two inches), put a new fitting, re-flared the line and reconnected. But whatever, I learned that it was doable, especially when you have a car lift.

To your point about using a 10mm deep socket, that’s exactly what we did at the union.

On another note, time to patch the frame again

I do it on all rusty brake lines as you have a great chance of getting them out if you just cut them at the flare nut.

That's why I suggest folks just drop the tank as mostly you may need a patch or 2 on your frame in that general area and with the gas tank out its a lot safer to weld it up.. :-)

With a car lift, Its a lot easier. When I did the last 2 of mine, I didn't have the car lift yet.

Plus your filler tube and tank will have some spots that need addressed as well to keep from rusting through. If you catch them in time, you can actually save the tank, skid and the filler tube before the oxidation gets them
and you have to replace it all.

This may help those who are looking to replace all of their brake hard lines at once. LinesToGo sells the entire set for $274.99.

1996 Toyota 4Runner 3.4L Brake Lines | 1996 4Runner- LinesToGo