08-05-2013, 05:07 PM
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#1
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Hard Brake Line Replacement. Pre-bent or DIY (what's the specs)?
The front and rear hard brake lines are getting pretty rusty on my 3rd gen 4Runner so I would like to replace them. I am just wondering if there are any online stores that you guys know of that sell pre-bent lines for an easy replacement?
I also don't mind bending them myself, but it's a bit hard trying to find the right generic lines here since most lines are in imperial. Does anyone know what the right thread specs to look for with these lines? I am assuming they are metric lines.
I am in Canada btw. No point going to the junkyard to get used lines because they are likely rusted as well.
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08-05-2013, 05:23 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Southwest
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Real Name: Chris
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Why not just go through Toyota?
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Fishwerks' Photo/Build Thread 2000 SR5 l White on White l 35s l Supercharged
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08-05-2013, 06:23 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: TX
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I just bent my own, I got the steel lines at Oreily (not sure if you have them in Canada?). i think they were M10x1 fittings???
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2002 SR5 4x4- Resurrection in Process
Quote:
Originally Posted by t4r4life
i like how my nipples are all smooth and pointy all six of them, sometimes i rub them when they get dirty
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08-05-2013, 06:27 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Boston MA
Age: 40
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I bought mine from an online dealer since they weren't that expensive. I didn't replace ALL the brake lines though, just the outermost hard lines.
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2000 SR5 3.4L V6 Automatic 4x4, e-locker, 175k Miles, Rust
Imp. Jade Mica with Oak Leather Interior, Field Monitor Unit - B&M Tranny Cooler - SG2 - New (to me) rear axle assembly - Goodyear Duratrac 265/75-16 - 1.8" Ironman Front Lift, OME 906/Procomp 9000 Shocks
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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08-05-2013, 06:27 PM
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#5
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I didn't realize Toyota would have something like this, but I guess I could try them as a last resort (will most likely be $$$).
In addition to the thread size (M10x1), what do I look for in regards to the flare? Just something that says Japanese?
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08-05-2013, 11:33 PM
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#6
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Went to the local auto parts store today and they have 3/16 "Japanese" line pre-cut in different lengths. Strangely, there was no mention of the connector thread measurements, nor the flare angle. Would it be a safe assumption that all 3/16" "Japanese" lines should be identical in fitment?
I also dont mind cutting, bending, and flaring my own lines from bulk 3/16" tubing, but when I looked at the flaring tool they sold, it had cutouts for different line sizes (like 3/16), but there is no mention of the flare angle.
Am I just too picky, or should the standards be pretty consistent?
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08-06-2013, 08:33 AM
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#7
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I know that I bought my flaring tool from AutoZone, and it works perfectly.
It has the mounts that you need in order to get the different size lines in there, and a little red, almost giant punch looking thing that has a bracket on it.
I also bought a bender, and went to the Pull-A-part and got as many fittings as I could, because I'm going to be doing an ABS delete; as in getting rid of the pump and all.
I also bought a roll of 3/16" brake line from AutoZone. Cost me like 25 bucks for 20 feet or something like that...
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08-06-2013, 09:44 AM
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#8
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I bought new fuel and brake lines through toyota for my 89... i think it came to about 3-400 for all of them. Not too bad. That was for ALL the lines.
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08-06-2013, 10:00 AM
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#9
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See if you can find a 25' roll of This Stuff.
We use it at work.
It bends with ease and outlast plain steel line any day of the week.
You will have to get fittings, unions, and probably a flair tool.
PDF sales flyer
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01 SR5 - 187k+/- 285 BFG A/T KO2 - 99 talls & front Trekmasters / Rear KYB - Hella fogs - Taco Mod - Fixed gaping hole in frame {SOLD}
02 Taco - 197k +/- BFG A/T KO2 285s + rims from 4Runner - saving up for suspension - House gets priority over Taco (for now)
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08-06-2013, 10:42 AM
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#10
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc2012
I know that I bought my flaring tool from AutoZone, and it works perfectly.
It has the mounts that you need in order to get the different size lines in there, and a little red, almost giant punch looking thing that has a bracket on it.
I also bought a bender, and went to the Pull-A-part and got as many fittings as I could, because I'm going to be doing an ABS delete; as in getting rid of the pump and all.
I also bought a roll of 3/16" brake line from AutoZone. Cost me like 25 bucks for 20 feet or something like that...
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Please take pics and do a writeup. I want to do this on my 99.
As for replacing the lines, if you don't want to go through Toyota, then I'd spend the money to get the tools and do it myself.
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08-06-2013, 11:28 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2011
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc2012
I know that I bought my flaring tool from AutoZone, and it works perfectly.
It has the mounts that you need in order to get the different size lines in there, and a little red, almost giant punch looking thing that has a bracket on it.
I also bought a bender, and went to the Pull-A-part and got as many fittings as I could, because I'm going to be doing an ABS delete; as in getting rid of the pump and all.
I also bought a roll of 3/16" brake line from AutoZone. Cost me like 25 bucks for 20 feet or something like that...
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What is the benefit of deleting the ABS entirely? Can't you just disable it by pulling the fuse?
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged Garrett 57-trim T3/T4 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 7MGE Supra 315cc “lime green” fuel injectors - 231mm Tundra Brakes - B&M 70264 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps and AFRs With My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear) - Airlift 1000 - RadioShack $5 Rear O2 Simulator
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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08-06-2013, 02:13 PM
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#12
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^Weight/engine bay cluter is all I can think of... Slightly off topic but what is the benifit of even disabling the abs in these trucks?
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08-06-2013, 04:53 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robb235
What is the benefit of deleting the ABS entirely? Can't you just disable it by pulling the fuse?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve240
^Weight/engine bay cluter is all I can think of... Slightly off topic but what is the benifit of even disabling the abs in these trucks?
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I lost my ABS when I did my 8.4" swap and my manual hub conversion.
The light is constantly on, and the pump is taking up space.
I'm going to put my ARB Compressor in its place.
That, and ABS can kill you on the trail.
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"We are experts in the application of violence."
-LtCol Christian Cabannis, Camp Letherneck, Afghanistan, 2009. The "Summer of Decision."
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08-06-2013, 05:05 PM
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#14
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Banned
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve240
^Weight/engine bay cluter is all I can think of... Slightly off topic but what is the benifit of even disabling the abs in these trucks?
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Mine was insanely sensitive. I would be braking on a completely dry street, hit a small bump and the ABS would kick on. Even with my 34" tires, I feel safer with no ABS.
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06-08-2014, 09:03 AM
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#15
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Bumping this thread, I haven't gotten around to replacing my lines yet. I just wanted to verify one thing: On the HARD lines (all four sides), is the correct fitting a 10mm MALE 1.0 thread japanese flare?
I want to order the lines, but dont want to have to take apart my current lines to figure out the sizing.
Also, are there suitable flex lines that can be ordered with custom lengths? That would make it easier in not having to bend them. All the flex lines I see seem to be as a rubber line replacement, and not to replace the hard lines.
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