08-23-2013, 01:22 AM
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#46
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Miami, Fl
Age: 33
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Real Name: Bryan
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If you take a sharp knife is possible to cut a slit in the firewall grommet, but if your thinking of passing alot of wires though its easier to cut a separate just for wiring going to and from the switches
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2000 Toyota 4Runner Base 2wd - Sold
1999 4Runner SR5 4x4 - Tundra Brake Upgrade- 2nd Gen Supercharger - 7th Injector - 32'' BFG KM2 Mud Terrains - ELocker - 4xinnvations Front Bumper
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08-23-2013, 01:36 PM
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#47
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID
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I tried doing that, but was scared about cutting one of the wires that goes through that grommet. With my luck, it would have happened haha. I was able to get the 6 wires through the grommet using the old coat hanger trick though, so everything is good to go now.
Just have to hook up the Blue Sea block to the fuse and battery now, and ground the relays and do the add-a-circuit for the switch power, and I should be able to test out all of the switches tonight to find out if my wiring is correct.
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1999 4Runner Highlander (sold):
Not SAS'd. Not supercharged. Not dual cased. Not on 37s. Not good enough.
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08-23-2013, 01:41 PM
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#48
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Why not just do something similar to what I did?
I put a gound and power stud on each side of the box, so that way there's only two wires going to and leaving.
All my power wires go to one stud, all the ground to another.
You would've only had to take two wires instead of six then.
Just a thought.
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-LtCol Christian Cabannis, Camp Letherneck, Afghanistan, 2009. The "Summer of Decision."
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08-23-2013, 01:45 PM
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#49
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I have 5 different sets of lights that I want to be able to turn on independently of each other, so they all had to go to a separate terminal on the aux fuse block. The 6th wire is the power wire for the rock lights, so that had to get through somehow too. All of the grounds are going to be grounded to one spot though.
Unless I'm not understanding how that would work. If that way would still let me turn on the lights independently of each other, well, I guess I did it the hard way then haha. Oh well, they're already through, no going back now.
Edit: The more I think about it, the more your way is starting to make sense. Oh well. I guess the only upside to the way I did it is that each of the lights are on their own fuse.
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1999 4Runner Highlander (sold):
Not SAS'd. Not supercharged. Not dual cased. Not on 37s. Not good enough.
Last edited by Kraze; 08-23-2013 at 01:49 PM.
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08-23-2013, 01:54 PM
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#50
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[QUOTE=Kraze;1462132] entire post [QUOTE]
So are mine. Each switch is run to a 35 amp fuze, which is run to the power stud. each relay is run to the power stud for power. Each switch is then run to each relay, and each relay is then run out the back of the box. Like so:
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-LtCol Christian Cabannis, Camp Letherneck, Afghanistan, 2009. The "Summer of Decision."
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08-23-2013, 01:57 PM
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#51
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Dammit. That's genius. Why didn't I see that before? If anyone is thinking about following this as a guide in the future, do that ^ instead of what I did haha.
Just found that in your build thread. I added the link to the first post as well. There's a lot of good info and pictures in your thread!
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1999 4Runner Highlander (sold):
Not SAS'd. Not supercharged. Not dual cased. Not on 37s. Not good enough.
Last edited by Kraze; 08-23-2013 at 02:05 PM.
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08-23-2013, 02:27 PM
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#52
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Thanks man!
I spent many a sleepless night trying to figure out a different way to run the switches and the wiring.
The Biomedical Engineering guys here @ NHCL thought it was pretty impressive as well! Lol.
I know you've got yours set up, but if you ever change your mind, let me know. I can make ya one.
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"We are experts in the application of violence."
-LtCol Christian Cabannis, Camp Letherneck, Afghanistan, 2009. The "Summer of Decision."
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08-23-2013, 03:32 PM
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#53
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[QUOTE=Doc2012;1462139][QUOTE=Kraze;1462132] entire post
Quote:
So are mine. Each switch is run to a 35 amp fuze, which is run to the power stud. each relay is run to the power stud for power. Each switch is then run to each relay, and each relay is then run out the back of the box. Like so:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraze
Dammit. That's genius. Why didn't I see that before? If anyone is thinking about following this as a guide in the future, do that ^ instead of what I did haha.
Just found that in your build thread. I added the link to the first post as well. There's a lot of good info and pictures in your thread!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc2012
Thanks man!
I spent many a sleepless night trying to figure out a different way to run the switches and the wiring.
The Biomedical Engineering guys here @ NHCL thought it was pretty impressive as well! Lol.
I know you've got yours set up, but if you ever change your mind, let me know. I can make ya one.
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That's a really good idea. Just make sure you use some big ass wire when you make the run from the battery to the box. If you go too small and turn all the circuits on at the same time it could burn some stuff up. I would also put a fuse on the wire run from the battery to the box.
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08-23-2013, 03:39 PM
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#54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurtis
Kurtis
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I'm going to be using some Amp wiring along with a amp fuze to run it all. I believe it's 6ga or 4ga with a 100 amp fuze.
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"We are experts in the application of violence."
-LtCol Christian Cabannis, Camp Letherneck, Afghanistan, 2009. The "Summer of Decision."
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08-23-2013, 03:44 PM
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#55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc2012
I'm going to be using some Amp wiring along with a amp fuze to run it all. I believe it's 6ga or 4ga with a 100 amp fuze.
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Should be good to go!
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08-30-2013, 07:13 PM
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#56
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Well, this project is almost done. I have the wires ran up to the roof, and the roof rack itself is just about all wired up too. Here's some pictures of running it to the roof:
You can see the coat hanger poking through the headliner here:
And here it is, with the wires up through it:
I'm going to put some RTV on that hole, then see about drilling a hole in the rail end cap, and maybe putting a rubber grommet in it and running the wires up through that. We'll see how it goes!
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1999 4Runner Highlander (sold):
Not SAS'd. Not supercharged. Not dual cased. Not on 37s. Not good enough.
Last edited by Kraze; 07-01-2014 at 04:06 PM.
Reason: Fixed pics.
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09-01-2013, 04:53 PM
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#57
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Age: 53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc2012
I know you've got yours set up, but if you ever change your mind, let me know. I can make ya one.
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Doc, any chance I could also take you up on that offer?
If so, then let me know what parts I need to buy...
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02-18-2014, 01:05 AM
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#58
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It has come to my attention that I never finished this thread off with pictures of the switches installed. So, without further ado, here they are:
The pictures kind of suck, because they were taken with a camera phone at night, but oh well.
@ txbonds
If you do it this way, and you have to cut the center trim piece, I recommend taking your time on it, because as you can see, I kind of did it sloppy haha. Oh well though, that's just my style
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1999 4Runner Highlander (sold):
Not SAS'd. Not supercharged. Not dual cased. Not on 37s. Not good enough.
Last edited by Kraze; 07-01-2014 at 04:07 PM.
Reason: Fixed pics.
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02-18-2014, 01:51 PM
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#59
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Turned out great! Great info in here too. Bump so I can find it.
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`73 Ford Courier-40’s all Toyota underneath
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08-26-2022, 12:07 PM
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#60
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Join Date: Aug 2022
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Accessory wiring help
Is there anything wrong with this wiring diagram? I’d take any help on locating the hi beam and the reverse wires to tap into.
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