[chadsy]

I got my new condenser and receiver put on and vacuumed the system. Verified no leaks were in the system and started to put in a can of r134a into the system. The next thing I know the clutch starts to engage and the belt starts squealing and smoking and snaps clean off. What would cause this? It almost sounded like whoever had put it on tightened up too much.

Any ideas on what could cause this? Should I put a new belt on and try to recharge the system?

[EatonKyleH]

Why did you replace the condenser and receiver dryer first off? Putting another belt on it will most likely just have the same result. I'm just curious as to the sequence of events here and also would ask if you put the appropriate amount of oil in each component you replaced as well as replacing the oil with same amount removed when recovering/pulling vacuum.

[jmildoc]

your A/C compressor is not toast, its an AC compressor. sounds like it is locking up though, maybe too much or too little freon. try a new belt, couldnt hurt.

[Justin727]

Originally Posted by jmildoc

your A/C compressor is not toast, its an AC compressor. sounds like it is locking up though, maybe too much or too little freon. try a new belt, couldnt hurt.

Hopefully not..

How much freon and oil did you put into the system OP?

[chadsy]

Originally Posted by EatonKyleH

Why did you replace the condenser and receiver dryer first off? Putting another belt on it will most likely just have the same result. I'm just curious as to the sequence of events here and also would ask if you put the appropriate amount of oil in each component you replaced as well as replacing the oil with same amount removed when recovering/pulling vacuum.

I was going to add the oil in between the cans of r134a. I needed to add 2.5 oz according to the FSM. Do you think any permanent damage was done?

[Justin727]

Originally Posted by chadsy

I was going to add the oil in between the cans of r134a. I needed to add 2.5 oz according to the FSM. Do you think any permanent damage was done?

If it had no oil in the system there very well could be damage

[EatonKyleH]

Originally Posted by chadsy

I was going to add the oil in between the cans of r134a. I needed to add 2.5 oz according to the FSM. Do you think any permanent damage was done?

I don't mean to sound like a jerk I just don't know a better way to explain this but adding oil between cans when recharging with no oil added from the start is much like starting the engine with all the oil drained out then adding the oil while its running and praying that it will be ok. Again I'm not trying to be of any offense to you!


The compressor clutch should turn freely when not engaged. To avoid burning another belt I'd jump power to the compressor clutch or jump across the low pressure switch which will cause it to engage. Then you should be able turn the compressor by hand with minimal resistance. If it takes all your strength to budge it or it wont turn at all it is most likely seized.

If it is seized and you decide to replace it be sure to buy some AC flush and flush the system. A seized compressor often times shells metal shaving into the system which can cause a restriction in the system or worse yet get to your new compressor and cause it to fail.

Let me know if you have any questions or need me to explain how you would do the testing I've mentioned.

[chadsy]

Originally Posted by EatonKyleH

I don't mean to sound like a jerk I just don't know a better way to explain this but adding oil between cans when recharging with no oil added from the start is much like starting the engine with all the oil drained out then adding the oil while its running and praying that it will be ok. Again I'm not trying to be of any offense to you!


The compressor clutch should turn freely when not engaged. To avoid burning another belt I'd jump power to the compressor clutch or jump across the low pressure switch which will cause it to engage. Then you should be able turn the compressor by hand with minimal resistance. If it takes all your strength to budge it or it wont turn at all it is most likely seized.

If it is seized and you decide to replace it be sure to buy some AC flush and flush the system. A seized compressor often times shells metal shaving into the system which can cause a restriction in the system or worse yet get to your new compressor and cause it to fail.

Let me know if you have any questions or need me to explain how you would do the testing I've mentioned.

I realized my ignorance soon after the smoke started. I was able to get under there with the car off and spin both the clutch and pulley and they both spun freely. Any advice on where to go from here? I thank you for your replies.

[EatonKyleH]

Originally Posted by chadsy

I realized my ignorance soon after the smoke started. I was able to get under there with the car off and spin both the clutch and pulley and they both spun freely. Any advice on where to go from here? I thank you for your replies.

lol its no problem and I'm glad to help.

Well that tells me that the compressor clutch can still disengage. Unless you supply it with power to engage (you will hear it click) then you are really just turning the pulley which is not turning the compressor (make sense?). You will need to supply power to the clutch which will make it click on and engage with the compressor. Then you will be turning it as one.

here is a diagram if you need.



you can also jump this switch (probably the easier route)



either way you will hear the clutch click on when power is supplied and click off when taking power away for that matter. I can take pictures of how this would be done on my own vehicle after work if you need. But really you unplug that switch and bypass it with a paperclip or something of the like between the terminals on the connector side. Then you can push your AC button and hear the clutch kick on regardless of freon charge. It will be ok to attempt turning by hand like this.

again let me know if you need further guidance. I know I felt kinda lost when learning this stuff back in the day.

good luck,
-Kyle

[chadsy]

Kyle, I very much appreciate all of this info.

I will try this testing method when I get home tonight. If the clutch does engage will that mean the compressor is in good shape? I hate to bother you with taking pictures but I think they would be very helpful to me and maybe even the community here at large. I just hate the thought of my pea brain error being worth $300. Once again, thank you for all of your help.

[tee-bone]

If the clutch engages it just means the clutch works. However, once it engages, when you turn the pulley you will also be turning the compressor. So, if it is really hard to turn (or doesn't turn at all) while the clutch is engaged, you have made toast. If it turns easily, that would be a good thing.

[chadsy]

Originally Posted by tee-bone

If the clutch engages it just means the clutch works. However, once it engages, when you turn the pulley you will also be turning the compressor. So, if it is really hard to turn (or doesn't turn at all) while the clutch is engaged, you have made toast. If it turns easily, that would be a good thing.

Thanks for your reply! For my sake, I just hope I toasted a belt and nothing else.

[EatonKyleH]

Originally Posted by chadsy

Kyle, I very much appreciate all of this info.

I will try this testing method when I get home tonight. If the clutch does engage will that mean the compressor is in good shape? I hate to bother you with taking pictures but I think they would be very helpful to me and maybe even the community here at large. I just hate the thought of my pea brain error being worth $300. Once again, thank you for all of your help.

Like said above this post. When you get the clutch to engage (hear it click on) then try turning it by hand. It will at the very least feel differently than it does when not engaged. My guess is that it will not turn or be really hard to turn. If it feels exactly like it did not engaged either there is still no power to the clutch or other issues may exist. If it is hard to or does not turn it has seized and will need replaced. I'll try to get you some pictures and a little write up soon using my vehicle.

[EatonKyleH]

Originally Posted by chadsy

Kyle, I very much appreciate all of this info.

I will try this testing method when I get home tonight. If the clutch does engage will that mean the compressor is in good shape? I hate to bother you with taking pictures but I think they would be very helpful to me and maybe even the community here at large. I just hate the thought of my pea brain error being worth $300. Once again, thank you for all of your help.

So because I'm feeling helpful today I decided to do this on a customers 3rd gen I'm working on for other issues. To meet all the other criteria for compressor engagement do it with the engine running and AC button on. But sure enough click on with jumped and off when removed. I'm using a cotter pin but you get the idea.



If you reach in there with it running to turn the compressor I'd recommend reaching up from the bottom and WATCH OUT FOR THE FAN!

[EatonKyleH]

You can also use this method with a belt on. If it freezes up when you jump it like shown pull out the pin from the connector and it will spin freely again.