Official Lower Ball Joint Write Up Thread - Page 2 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

Singtoe · 08-30-2013, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shootmymime

let me know if there is anything else i should add to make it better.

A couple of things.

Quote:

1. A good tip of advice is to spray all the components you will be taking off (described later) with some sort of lubricating penatrating oil (wr40, PB blaster).
2. Prepare all the parts and tools you will need before you start to tackle this job if this is your only vehicle. The parts and tools I used were an impact wrench and sockets measuring 15/16, 3/4, 9/16, 13/16. A large hammer. The ball joint associated with the side your replacing. Jack and jack stands. Dykes or wire cutting pliers. another tool you might need is a torch and a pickle fork, but i did not need them.

There are no SAE size fasteners on the 4runner. You need 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, and a 22mm sockets to do the job right.

And don't use a castle nut backwards and beat off the tierod or ball joint. It will damage the threads and the nut. Just hit the side of the joint with a hammer to shock it loose. No damage to anything.

shootmymime · 08-30-2013, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Singtoe

A couple of things.

There are no SAE size fasteners on the 4runner. You need 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, and a 22mm sockets to do the job right.

And don't use a castle nut backwards and beat off the tierod or ball joint. It will damage the threads and the nut. Just hit the side of the joint with a hammer to shock it loose. No damage to anything.

I knew I would catch flack for both of those. Standard is all I have when it comes to that big.
Thanks ill change the socket sizes now I know what they are

Dirtyfingers · 08-30-2013, 09:40 AM

This is a very informative thread. I will defiantly use this. I vote sticky!!!

drabbits · 09-02-2013, 02:57 AM

Very nice write up, think I can add to this when time permits, considering most of my front end is factory tacoma...

audiness · 09-02-2013, 10:43 AM

Definitely post torque specs, extremely important when doing this job. otherwise great write up!

shootmymime · 09-02-2013, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by audiness

Definitely post torque specs, extremely important when doing this job. otherwise great write up!

Do you not see them? They are in bold on each step that you take a nut or bolt off.

Jedrattle · 09-02-2013, 01:08 PM

I want to add one thing.....

I have read its a good idea to replace the bolts for the lower ball joint. I just bought them this week...$11 for all 8 (from Toyota). Cheap insurance to me. Of course,I beat on mine and try to think of this type of little stuff.

smithTR4 · 09-02-2013, 01:12 PM

And remember to shop around for the best prices! My local toyota stealership wanted 150 per ball joint and 20 bucks for the bolts.. Toyotapartszone was way cheaper but a little slow on the shipping..

shootmymime · 09-02-2013, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jedrattle

I want to add one thing.....

I have read its a good idea to replace the bolts for the lower ball joint. I just bought them this week...$11 for all 8 (from Toyota). Cheap insurance to me. Of course,I beat on mine and try to think of this type of little stuff.

My new ball joints came with 1cotter pin for the ballpoint castle nut and 4 new bolts like you are saying. So I did use the new ones.

Ron Helmuth · 01-07-2015, 08:29 PM

Thanks for getting this online.

My ride is only at 130K miles but there's no sense in just hoping it will not happen.

Getting this done soon.

Asaspades93 · 01-07-2015, 09:07 PM

I would recommend if you replace the 4 lower bolts go with oe. 2 of the new ones fell out and the other 2 were bent and they had all been loc tighted and torqued to spec, I just put the old bolts back in and haven't run into any issues so far

Oeconomia · 01-07-2015, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirtyfingers

This is a very informative thread. I will defiantly use this. I vote sticky!!!

I second this!

Nelsonmd · 01-08-2015, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Singtoe

And don't use a castle nut backwards and beat off the tierod or ball joint. It will damage the threads and the nut. Just hit the side of the joint with a hammer to shock it loose. No damage to anything.

Agreed, hitting threaded parts or nuts always seems to result in damage. Just a slip of the wrist can mangle the threads easily.

I am surprised that no one has brought this up, but I have had very good results from using pitman pullers on the tie rods and I'd expect the same with the LBJ stud (If you can get it on the LCA). Similarly, you could use a 3-arm puller that I'm sure would work. I found I didn't even have to hit anything with a hammer to pop them out.

Pitman pullers are typically free to rent from auto parts stores, autozone and Advance should all rent them for free (basically you buy the tool, then they refund you the total cost when you return it)

Just another option!