01-09-2015, 02:51 AM
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#31
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In the past I've put the castle nut on and hit the sides of the tapered joint with two sledge hammers, this knocks it loose and puts no stress on the bolt. This time I used two tools from the OTC front end service set ( http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front.../dp/B0002SRH7O).
- Matt
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01-09-2015, 03:09 AM
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#32
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Napa pullers work also. wish I had known that before buying an advance one
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02-28-2015, 03:02 PM
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#33
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02-28-2015, 04:03 PM
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#34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asaspades93
Napa pullers work also. wish I had known that before buying an advance one
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Do they let you rent them like Autozone does?
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02-28-2015, 07:33 PM
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#35
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Awesome write-up, great for someone like me who wouldn't even have the slightest idea where to start (or even that failure was that common). I'll put it on the to-do list before any bigger trips this summer.
A newbie question - is there any other maintenance/recommended checks that can be done while replacing the LBJs?
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02-28-2015, 08:44 PM
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#36
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Just wanna add some of my own pics, this thread is great since a lot of people seem to be having ball joint failures lately.
I was also doing 55 when this happened ( bottom Control arm grinded away)
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03-05-2015, 12:25 AM
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#37
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PSA time, life's too short to have this happen. Keep your ballz fresh!
Saw this on the news tonight. Five car pile up on Interstate 85 due to tacoma LBJ failure and he was stuck in the middle of the highway.
Pardon the awful pic of my tv screen...
Last edited by gearnuts; 03-05-2015 at 01:04 AM.
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03-18-2015, 12:29 AM
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#38
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both my tie rod end and ball joint are stuck and i cant free them. i have a pitman puller but its a bit small to get over for either and pull them. and i already tried bfh. and kroil.
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03-18-2015, 12:50 AM
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#39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Farms
both my tie rod end and ball joint are stuck and i cant free them. i have a pitman puller but its a bit small to get over for either and pull them. and i already tried bfh. and kroil.
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I went to AutoZone and rented all three - a Pitman Puller, Tie Rod End Puller, and. ... I think the other was just called a standard Pickle Fork. One of them was the right size - the other two were a bit too small, like you said. I'd go to AutoZone and try all three - one will work.
I mushroomed the old lower ball joint area where the tie rod end mounts, because I hit it with the BFH THAT many times. I feel your pain.
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03-18-2015, 01:28 AM
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#40
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well i got the tie rod end off by forcing the pitman puller over. still working on the lbj.
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03-18-2015, 01:36 AM
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#41
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wow its great to see this thread is alive and well, helping people save their vehicles.
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03-18-2015, 02:02 AM
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#42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootmymime
wow its great to see this thread is alive and well, helping people save their vehicles.
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so should i have the 4 bolts off before i try to remove the ball joint taper part?
what if i put the wheel back on, and then thread the castle nut 90% back and and lower the tire down, would that losen it.
im kindof stuck now because autozone is closed and i just have my bike, kind of hoping to swap this tonight.
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Last edited by D Farms; 03-18-2015 at 02:08 AM.
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03-18-2015, 02:05 AM
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#43
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no, pop it loose, then the shock will drop down and inch or so and hang there. then you can take the 4 bolts off and remove the ball joint.
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Never ask a girl if shes sick, she might not be wearing any make up. - lets just say she went storming off.
Never tell your wife she looks tired, they tend to hit and say that means she looks ugly. (weird logic i know)
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03-18-2015, 02:42 AM
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#44
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no dice. im going to have to get over to the lab somehow and mill out the puller to have a bigger gap.
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03-18-2015, 04:57 PM
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#45
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Camelback Toyota doesn't have an option for the 4 bolts so I'm going to assume they come with the Ball Joints.
Should I have ordered the castle nut? I didn't see that on the first page of this thread.
Thanks,
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