Tacoma ball joints are identicle in the area that can fail (the ball joint itself). They are thicker / stronger where the tie-rod attaches which does not fail. Also, if you upgrade to tacoma LBJ's, you have to change to tacoma outer tie rods. And... you loose some turn radius. So overall, not a worthwhile upgrade.
I run the tacoma set and I'm fine with it. It's not that big of a loss in turning radius. To each their own though.
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98 Toyota 4runner 3rz 5spd 4x4 - Sold Build Thread
06 4runner 2uz Build Build Thread
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Never ask a girl if shes sick, she might not be wearing any make up. - lets just say she went storming off.
Never tell your wife she looks tired, they tend to hit and say that means she looks ugly. (weird logic i know)
would you recommend other brand lbj such as moog or just oem? and my other question is why would you go back to a brand that fails?
Thanks,
Hey sir. It's an honor to see you comment and quote me. Good to see your still around with your sons truck.
Over the years I would say oem. They last the longest out of everyone brand we have seen.
You have to understand a ball joint is a wearing part that will eventually fail. Just like changing your oil or replacing burned out bulbs. But much slower process. No matter what joint you buy it will eventually fail, just how soon depends on the joint with its quality of material it's made from.
Never ask a girl if shes sick, she might not be wearing any make up. - lets just say she went storming off.
Never tell your wife she looks tired, they tend to hit and say that means she looks ugly. (weird logic i know)
Never ask a girl if shes sick, she might not be wearing any make up. - lets just say she went storming off.
Never tell your wife she looks tired, they tend to hit and say that means she looks ugly. (weird logic i know)
Can you all take a look at these pics and let me know what you think. They are a little crusty on the back sides but seem fairly solid. I did the test of jacking up from the control arm and prying on the LBJ directly as well on under the tire and didn't see any noticeable movement. I was just using my tire iron (all I had) and will try again later with longer pry bar.
I picked up this '97 not lifted with 222K. The previous owner bought it at 208k but didn't know if the owner before him had them replaced the LBJs. Overall everything looks fairly clean and I can post some other suspension pics if that helps with anything.
Can you all take a look at these pics and let me know what you think. They are a little crusty on the back sides but seem fairly solid. I did the test of jacking up from the control arm and prying on the LBJ directly as well on under the tire and didn't see any noticeable movement. I was just using my tire iron (all I had) and will try again later with longer pry bar.
I picked up this '97 not lifted with 222K. The previous owner bought it at 208k but didn't know if the owner before him had them replaced the LBJs. Overall everything looks fairly clean and I can post some other suspension pics if that helps with anything.
This is one of those things where most would agree to just replace them with OEM cause then you will have piece of mind in knowing they are new. And for the price do stick with OEM. Order from Camelback. Be happy.
__________________ AzBub Build2000 Toyota 4Runner Highlander, 4x4, E Locker. 4:30 gears. TRD Taco springs on Tundra 5100s. FJ80 8 wraps/Monroe economy rear lift.
This is one of those things where most would agree to just replace them with OEM cause then you will have piece of mind in knowing they are new. And for the price do stick with OEM. Order from Camelback. Be happy.
I hear you on that and in the end that's likely what I'll do. I'm always hesitant to replace a part that seems to be in good condition and for all I know they replaced once already. That said, I'm not an expert here so maybe these aren't in as good of shape as I think. Still I had zero movement on them.
I hear you on that and in the end that's likely what I'll do. I'm always hesitant to replace a part that seems to be in good condition and for all I know they replaced once already. That said, I'm not an expert here so maybe these aren't in as good of shape as I think. Still I had zero movement on them.
I can see the boots are dry rotting, and based on their overall look, I'd bet they are original.
I will say I recently replaced my original LBJ's, that had almost 100k fewer miles on them. I didn't think they were too bad, while they were still on the 'Runner. After I removed them, I was shocked at just how bad they were. I can't say when they would've failed, but it does drive much better, and the peace of mind is priceless.
You really need to test them, and just inspect the rubbers closely. If they are completely tight and the rubbers are good, then maybe you're ok. If there is even a little play, or if the rubber has even pinholes in those cracks (or the crack going most of the way through), then I say just replace them. My pastor's 4runner had no play, but a cut in the rubber, and it ended up failing I think about 6 months later. IMO, this is really a 90k lifetime part, so I'd replace it after about 100k no matter what. That's not a very big cost when spread out over so many years, likely 5yrs at minimum.
__________________ 2000 SR5 3.4L V6 Automatic 4x4, e-locker, 175k Miles, Rust Imp. Jade Mica with Oak Leather Interior, Field Monitor Unit - B&M Tranny Cooler - SG2 - New (to me) rear axle assembly - Goodyear Duratrac 265/75-16 - 1.8" Ironman Front Lift, OME 906/Procomp 9000 Shocks