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Old 09-23-2015, 07:57 AM #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhelms View Post
Tacoma ball joints are identicle in the area that can fail (the ball joint itself). They are thicker / stronger where the tie-rod attaches which does not fail. Also, if you upgrade to tacoma LBJ's, you have to change to tacoma outer tie rods. And... you loose some turn radius. So overall, not a worthwhile upgrade.
I run the tacoma set and I'm fine with it. It's not that big of a loss in turning radius. To each their own though.
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Old 09-25-2015, 11:26 AM #62
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Has there been a lbj failure on 4Runner with stock suspension? It seems like it always happens on ones that are lifted.
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Old 09-25-2015, 02:10 PM #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhdNPrerunners View Post
Has there been a lbj failure on 4Runner with stock suspension? It seems like it always happens on ones that are lifted.

Yes. Saw one yesterday in a parking lot on a 100% stock one that an old lady drove
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Old 11-02-2015, 04:33 PM #64
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@shootmymime or anyone else,

do you know what's a good size cotter pin to use for new ones on the LBJs, just by looking at this list?

Cotter Pin - Pins, Rings & Clips - Fasteners - Hardware - *The Home Depot
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Old 11-30-2015, 01:20 AM #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootmymime View Post
Yes. Saw one yesterday in a parking lot on a 100% stock one that an old lady drove
would you recommend other brand lbj such as moog or just oem? and my other question is why would you go back to a brand that fails?

Thanks,
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Old 11-30-2015, 01:41 AM #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02_SE_Runner_DAD View Post
would you recommend other brand lbj such as moog or just oem? and my other question is why would you go back to a brand that fails?



Thanks,

Hey sir. It's an honor to see you comment and quote me. Good to see your still around with your sons truck.

Over the years I would say oem. They last the longest out of everyone brand we have seen.

You have to understand a ball joint is a wearing part that will eventually fail. Just like changing your oil or replacing burned out bulbs. But much slower process. No matter what joint you buy it will eventually fail, just how soon depends on the joint with its quality of material it's made from.

Stick with oem.
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Old 12-02-2015, 11:40 AM #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpine View Post
Also, any ideas regarding a "LBJ Dust Cover"? It is a 14$ piece and why not if it would get me some extra miles.

PN: 43346-60011


This is a landcruiser lbj wearing a dust cover
Ever find out anything more about these?
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:58 PM #68
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Looks like I'm going to tackle this before my road trip to San Francisco. Probably one of the better straight to the point youtube videos on this



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULpSO5MJn1U
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Old 12-08-2015, 11:12 PM #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbsponger View Post
Looks like I'm going to tackle this before my road trip to San Francisco. Probably one of the better straight to the point youtube videos on


Hit me up if you have any questions.
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Old 12-09-2015, 07:16 AM #70
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Nice job so far, Im actually looking to do mine soon and may follow your write up.

Last edited by cvjhin; 12-09-2015 at 07:19 AM.
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Old 12-16-2015, 12:17 PM #71
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Can you all take a look at these pics and let me know what you think. They are a little crusty on the back sides but seem fairly solid. I did the test of jacking up from the control arm and prying on the LBJ directly as well on under the tire and didn't see any noticeable movement. I was just using my tire iron (all I had) and will try again later with longer pry bar.

I picked up this '97 not lifted with 222K. The previous owner bought it at 208k but didn't know if the owner before him had them replaced the LBJs. Overall everything looks fairly clean and I can post some other suspension pics if that helps with anything.
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:39 PM #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Algiers View Post
Can you all take a look at these pics and let me know what you think. They are a little crusty on the back sides but seem fairly solid. I did the test of jacking up from the control arm and prying on the LBJ directly as well on under the tire and didn't see any noticeable movement. I was just using my tire iron (all I had) and will try again later with longer pry bar.



I picked up this '97 not lifted with 222K. The previous owner bought it at 208k but didn't know if the owner before him had them replaced the LBJs. Overall everything looks fairly clean and I can post some other suspension pics if that helps with anything.

This is one of those things where most would agree to just replace them with OEM cause then you will have piece of mind in knowing they are new. And for the price do stick with OEM. Order from Camelback. Be happy.
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:00 PM #73
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This is one of those things where most would agree to just replace them with OEM cause then you will have piece of mind in knowing they are new. And for the price do stick with OEM. Order from Camelback. Be happy.
I hear you on that and in the end that's likely what I'll do. I'm always hesitant to replace a part that seems to be in good condition and for all I know they replaced once already. That said, I'm not an expert here so maybe these aren't in as good of shape as I think. Still I had zero movement on them.
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:10 PM #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Algiers View Post
I hear you on that and in the end that's likely what I'll do. I'm always hesitant to replace a part that seems to be in good condition and for all I know they replaced once already. That said, I'm not an expert here so maybe these aren't in as good of shape as I think. Still I had zero movement on them.

I can see the boots are dry rotting, and based on their overall look, I'd bet they are original.

I will say I recently replaced my original LBJ's, that had almost 100k fewer miles on them. I didn't think they were too bad, while they were still on the 'Runner. After I removed them, I was shocked at just how bad they were. I can't say when they would've failed, but it does drive much better, and the peace of mind is priceless.
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:24 PM #75
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You really need to test them, and just inspect the rubbers closely. If they are completely tight and the rubbers are good, then maybe you're ok. If there is even a little play, or if the rubber has even pinholes in those cracks (or the crack going most of the way through), then I say just replace them. My pastor's 4runner had no play, but a cut in the rubber, and it ended up failing I think about 6 months later. IMO, this is really a 90k lifetime part, so I'd replace it after about 100k no matter what. That's not a very big cost when spread out over so many years, likely 5yrs at minimum.
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