What is the trick to removing the rear shocks?

There is not a nut on top of the shock to keep it from spinning. And zero room to turn a wrench to brake the nut off. I'm about to get the saw zaw and try and cut the stem.

Why?

I used a deep socket with a rachet wedged up against the frame so it wouldn't spin. Grab the dust shield (if it's a factory shock) and twist the dust shield to loosen the upper nut.

Otherwise a sawzall will work.

if you can't turn it cut it

This right here. A little PB Blaster will also help the top nut come off.

Cut it. Takes 4 seconds.

Thanks for the reply guys. I took the CJ for a drive and got the saw zaw from home. If I can't use that my brother has the torch. I'll just need to prep a little extra for the hot wrench.

When I changed mine, I was all set up for a big fight. Sawzall and torch, waiting in the wings. After I got a socket wrench on it, braced myself for a big pull....F'n thing snapped right off. The passenger side I didnt even bother with, removed the bottom from the axle and then just rocked the shock back and forth to break off the shaft. Took less than a minute I believe.

I unbolted the bottom of the shock and twisted it back and forth until it broke off. No need for tools. Works on old factory shocks

Wait till you have to put it on! =)

Deep socket works. Still a PITA but do-able. Remain patient.

I use a vise grip or pipe wrench on the FLANGE of the boot holder. DO NOT put this on the shaft itself or you'll damage the shaft and wreck the seals on the strut instantly. Hold the pipe wrench against the frame/spring with one hand, and turn the ratchet with the other. Not too bad once you get a system down. I did it 2-3 times and it got easier and easier. (The LC struts require spacers on top of the rubber grommet or they rattle and round out the shaft hole)

Good luck.

Done, now to fix the stripped lower sway bar mount bolt hole on the drivers side axil.

This is what I did. I had no problem getting mine out. Others have not been so successful and have had to cut their shocks out. IF you have any surface rust on the frame (my truck did not) then you will probably have to cut them out, especially if they are the original shocks. My truck had 341k on it when I purchased it, so I'm sure the original owner had put at least 1 set of shocks on by then.

I just went through this tonight (drivers side) and here is what I have to offer:

Logic would tell you the way to get to the upper shock mount bolt is from under the truck. It ain't so.

In fact if you are like me you will go under there and after about 20 minutes start shaking your head and assuming that Toyota somehow mounted the shocks to the chassis and then lowered the body down over it completely concealing the upper mount.

Or, like me you might pull up the rear cargo carpet hoping and praying there is an access hole like many vehicles have. There ain't.

Now specifically I am talking the drivers side here, the passenger side is not as bad to access.

Here is the trick:

1) Jack the truck up by the axle and support the frame with jack stands.
2) Remove the lower mounting bolt
3) VERY SLOWLY lower the axle down about 3-4"
4) You can now reach in from the wheel well over the axle and past the spring mount to attach a 14mm deep well socket.
5) As some other guys stated above, you can now grab the upper shock tube with a channel lock and while holding the 14mm socket/wrench above undo the bolt.

I had no problem securing the new shock upper mount using the 14mm deep well socket and holding the new upper shock tube.

Beware the bowl where the upper mount sits will likely be caked with dirt and sand. I scraped it out with my finger and then stuck my air compressor blow out tool up there to completely blow all the crap out. There was a lot and I don't even off road much.

Ok, I know it's a HUGE pain in the ass, but you guys do know that the shocks have allen heads right? You put an allen in there to hold the shock in place and use a box wrench or ratcheting box wrench while holding the shaft in place with the allen. Mine is much easier because I have a 1" body lift, but it's still doable with the stock setup or aftermarket shocks.

If you mean an Allen head receiver hole in the top shock mount, my original 2002 Toyota shocks do not. They have a sort of square top but I cannot imagine trying to get a box end on the bolt and then holding that square tip with something - there is just not enough room.

What I posted above was pretty successful for me. The deep well is the way to go IMO.

I have seen what you are talking about with struts before but not on these rear shocks.

Lol yes, an "Allen head receiver hole"(why didn't I use the techinical term is lost on me). I'm not sure about the 2002's but I just removed my factory tokikos on Friday and they had the "Allen head receiver hole" as did my last 2001 2wd, as did my new bilsteins that I installed to replace my factory shocks. I'm just stating this all from my experience, so I'm not 100% on if this is a standard for shocks, but it seems fairly logical that it would be.