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Old 09-25-2013, 03:24 AM #1
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Another Rear Window Issue

I've searched for this and tried to do the suggestions of other people, but can't seem to find what the issue is.

Whenever I try to roll down the window, it only rolls down about an inch, not even enough to "crack" the window, but enough to know it moved. It rolls back up without a problem, however.

I've tried the window wiper to see if it works and it does. I made sure it was in its "home" spot and it was. I tried using the key instead of the button and it does the same thing. I tried holding the key in the closed position in case I am not closing it all the way (closing it all the way resets it?) and it doesn't help. I don't know if the defrost works or not, as I have not needed it yet, so I have no way to test it. I can't imagine I have a bad fuse, because the window does roll down, even if only marginally.

Anybody have any ideas? I don't want to open the tailgate up unless I have to, I'm not a fan of doing exploratory surgery!

Thanks!
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:23 AM #2
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Sounds like the guide rails or the whole thing for that matter may have rusted out. Happened to me this summer.
The guide rails expanded as they rusted then it seized up.
I replaced the whole mechanism. You can see how bad the old one was.
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Another Rear Window Issue-regulator-jpg 

Last edited by wc11; 09-25-2013 at 08:30 AM.
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:24 AM #3
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Sounds like the switch is working, so you're gonna have to open her up. Probably will need a new motor if I were to make an educated guess, but it could be slightly off-track and binding up when it rolls down.
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Old 09-25-2013, 09:15 AM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff88 View Post
I've searched for this and tried to do the suggestions of other people, but can't seem to find what the issue is.

Whenever I try to roll down the window, it only rolls down about an inch, not even enough to "crack" the window, but enough to know it moved. It rolls back up without a problem, however.

I've tried the window wiper to see if it works and it does. I made sure it was in its "home" spot and it was. I tried using the key instead of the button and it does the same thing. I tried holding the key in the closed position in case I am not closing it all the way (closing it all the way resets it?) and it doesn't help. I don't know if the defrost works or not, as I have not needed it yet, so I have no way to test it. I can't imagine I have a bad fuse, because the window does roll down, even if only marginally.

Anybody have any ideas? I don't want to open the tailgate up unless I have to, I'm not a fan of doing exploratory surgery!

Thanks!
I have the same problem and found that the window is hitting the rear wiper motor and getting stuck. So far I have not found a fix for this problem. Track seems fine and bolts for motor are tight. You may want to see if this is your problem.
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:17 AM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halo32c View Post
I have the same problem and found that the window is hitting the rear wiper motor and getting stuck. So far I have not found a fix for this problem. Track seems fine and bolts for motor are tight. You may want to see if this is your problem.
Mine started doing this last week, got to tear her apart and check out why.
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:31 AM #6
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Rear window

Mine did the same thing. You have to remove the fabric panel and the metal inspection panel from the rear hatch. If you look inside at the top of the glass and have someone operate the window, you will see where it is binding/catching. I had to use a long prybar and literally bend/flex the metal bracket outward. You'll see what I'm talking about when the window is operated. Mine is back to normal now.
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Old 09-25-2013, 02:22 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawguy View Post
Mine did the same thing. You have to remove the fabric panel and the metal inspection panel from the rear hatch. If you look inside at the top of the glass and have someone operate the window, you will see where it is binding/catching. I had to use a long prybar and literally bend/flex the metal bracket outward. You'll see what I'm talking about when the window is operated. Mine is back to normal now.
Thought about trying that but was afraid of denting outer skin sheet metal. I'm off tomorrow and will give that a shot. I'll try to post pics of window hitting wiper motor too.
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:58 PM #8
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rear window

Rear window issue fixed.
Pulled wiper motor and found that wiper motor frame was a little tweaked. Bent back into shape, reinstalled motor and window now works like a charm.
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:57 AM #9
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I was thinking about actually fixing this issue come spring time, but if it ends up being this easy, maybe I will try it now. How long did it take to pull the panels off?
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Old 09-29-2013, 12:39 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff88 View Post
I was thinking about actually fixing this issue come spring time, but if it ends up being this easy, maybe I will try it now. How long did it take to pull the panels off?
About an hour total from start to finish. Took longer to wiggle motor out then it did to take off panels. 4 bolts inside panal for motor(think it was 10mm socket) and 10mm nut to remove wiper arm. Wear gloves or you will missing skin from your knuckles! Still not sure how motor frame was tweaked but glad window is working. Dont forget to add grease to gears while you have eveything off. Looks like it had been awhile since mine where lubed.

Last edited by halo32c; 09-29-2013 at 12:40 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 11-27-2015, 09:11 PM #11
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Old thread....

So I noticed I need to pull on the window wiper assembly, somehow it can get in the way and bind the rear window up so you can't roll it down. Without taking it apart yet, I just make sure I pull on the wiper bolt periodically while walking by.
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Old 11-30-2015, 11:21 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wc11 View Post
Sounds like the guide rails or the whole thing for that matter may have rusted out. Happened to me this summer.
The guide rails expanded as they rusted then it seized up.
I replaced the whole mechanism. You can see how bad the old one was.
Looks like mine! lol.

I gave mine some TLC as rolling the rear window down used to result in a god awful noise.

Had to repair one of the window brackets and clean off the guides before spraying a little lube. Works great now, but I know it's only a matter of time before I'll need to replace the whole unit as well.

Where did you pick your new one up from? How much?
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Old 11-30-2015, 02:14 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpidermanGeek View Post
Looks like mine! lol.

I gave mine some TLC as rolling the rear window down used to result in a god awful noise.

Had to repair one of the window brackets and clean off the guides before spraying a little lube. Works great now, but I know it's only a matter of time before I'll need to replace the whole unit as well.

Where did you pick your new one up from? How much?
I doubt it will be relevant, the thread is a few years old. Just utilizing the search function and on my current problem.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:23 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpidermanGeek View Post
Looks like mine! lol.

I gave mine some TLC as rolling the rear window down used to result in a god awful noise.

Had to repair one of the window brackets and clean off the guides before spraying a little lube. Works great now, but I know it's only a matter of time before I'll need to replace the whole unit as well.

Where did you pick your new one up from? How much?
If memory serves, it wasn't too expensive relatively speaking from toyotapartscheap.com
Click on #11 (regulator). About $150

OEM Toyota parts for your 1998 4Runner in stock and ready to ship.

There may be lower prices at other dealers but it was still less than half for us here in Canada with then exchange rate.
I recall it being about 2 hours work. Partially because I gave the inside of the tailgate a good cleaning while in there. Cigar/beer break didn't help either.

Last edited by wc11; 11-30-2015 at 05:25 PM.
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Old 12-01-2015, 02:47 PM #15
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Very simple to get to the internals. I had a loose bolt that my window would hit on..
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