09-25-2013, 03:24 AM
|
#1
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: San Jose
Posts: 333
|
|
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: San Jose
Posts: 333
|
Another Rear Window Issue
I've searched for this and tried to do the suggestions of other people, but can't seem to find what the issue is.
Whenever I try to roll down the window, it only rolls down about an inch, not even enough to "crack" the window, but enough to know it moved. It rolls back up without a problem, however.
I've tried the window wiper to see if it works and it does. I made sure it was in its "home" spot and it was. I tried using the key instead of the button and it does the same thing. I tried holding the key in the closed position in case I am not closing it all the way (closing it all the way resets it?) and it doesn't help. I don't know if the defrost works or not, as I have not needed it yet, so I have no way to test it. I can't imagine I have a bad fuse, because the window does roll down, even if only marginally.
Anybody have any ideas? I don't want to open the tailgate up unless I have to, I'm not a fan of doing exploratory surgery!
Thanks!
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-25-2013, 08:23 AM
|
#2
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 642
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 642
|
Sounds like the guide rails or the whole thing for that matter may have rusted out. Happened to me this summer.
The guide rails expanded as they rusted then it seized up.
I replaced the whole mechanism. You can see how bad the old one was.
Last edited by wc11; 09-25-2013 at 08:30 AM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-25-2013, 08:24 AM
|
#3
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 2,056
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 2,056
|
Sounds like the switch is working, so you're gonna have to open her up. Probably will need a new motor if I were to make an educated guess, but it could be slightly off-track and binding up when it rolls down.
__________________
The 4Runner Show
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-25-2013, 09:15 AM
|
#4
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Austin,Texas
Posts: 79
|
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Austin,Texas
Posts: 79
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff88
I've searched for this and tried to do the suggestions of other people, but can't seem to find what the issue is.
Whenever I try to roll down the window, it only rolls down about an inch, not even enough to "crack" the window, but enough to know it moved. It rolls back up without a problem, however.
I've tried the window wiper to see if it works and it does. I made sure it was in its "home" spot and it was. I tried using the key instead of the button and it does the same thing. I tried holding the key in the closed position in case I am not closing it all the way (closing it all the way resets it?) and it doesn't help. I don't know if the defrost works or not, as I have not needed it yet, so I have no way to test it. I can't imagine I have a bad fuse, because the window does roll down, even if only marginally.
Anybody have any ideas? I don't want to open the tailgate up unless I have to, I'm not a fan of doing exploratory surgery!
Thanks!
|
I have the same problem and found that the window is hitting the rear wiper motor and getting stuck. So far I have not found a fix for this problem. Track seems fine and bolts for motor are tight. You may want to see if this is your problem.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-25-2013, 11:17 AM
|
#5
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Toronto, Canada
Age: 36
Posts: 323
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Toronto, Canada
Age: 36
Posts: 323
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by halo32c
I have the same problem and found that the window is hitting the rear wiper motor and getting stuck. So far I have not found a fix for this problem. Track seems fine and bolts for motor are tight. You may want to see if this is your problem.
|
Mine started doing this last week, got to tear her apart and check out why.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-25-2013, 11:31 AM
|
#6
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: south dakota
Posts: 320
|
|
Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: south dakota
Posts: 320
|
Rear window
Mine did the same thing. You have to remove the fabric panel and the metal inspection panel from the rear hatch. If you look inside at the top of the glass and have someone operate the window, you will see where it is binding/catching. I had to use a long prybar and literally bend/flex the metal bracket outward. You'll see what I'm talking about when the window is operated. Mine is back to normal now.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-25-2013, 02:22 PM
|
#7
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Austin,Texas
Posts: 79
|
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Austin,Texas
Posts: 79
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by sawguy
Mine did the same thing. You have to remove the fabric panel and the metal inspection panel from the rear hatch. If you look inside at the top of the glass and have someone operate the window, you will see where it is binding/catching. I had to use a long prybar and literally bend/flex the metal bracket outward. You'll see what I'm talking about when the window is operated. Mine is back to normal now.
|
Thought about trying that but was afraid of denting outer skin sheet metal. I'm off tomorrow and will give that a shot. I'll try to post pics of window hitting wiper motor too.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-26-2013, 07:58 PM
|
#8
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Austin,Texas
Posts: 79
|
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Austin,Texas
Posts: 79
|
rear window
Rear window issue fixed.
Pulled wiper motor and found that wiper motor frame was a little tweaked. Bent back into shape, reinstalled motor and window now works like a charm.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-28-2013, 02:57 AM
|
#9
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: San Jose
Posts: 333
|
|
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: San Jose
Posts: 333
|
I was thinking about actually fixing this issue come spring time, but if it ends up being this easy, maybe I will try it now. How long did it take to pull the panels off?
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-29-2013, 12:39 PM
|
#10
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Austin,Texas
Posts: 79
|
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Austin,Texas
Posts: 79
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff88
I was thinking about actually fixing this issue come spring time, but if it ends up being this easy, maybe I will try it now. How long did it take to pull the panels off?
|
About an hour total from start to finish. Took longer to wiggle motor out then it did to take off panels. 4 bolts inside panal for motor(think it was 10mm socket) and 10mm nut to remove wiper arm. Wear gloves or you will missing skin from your knuckles! Still not sure how motor frame was tweaked but glad window is working. Dont forget to add grease to gears while you have eveything off. Looks like it had been awhile since mine where lubed.
Last edited by halo32c; 09-29-2013 at 12:40 PM.
Reason: typo
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-27-2015, 09:11 PM
|
#11
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,107
Real Name: Tim
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,107
Real Name: Tim
|
Old thread....
So I noticed I need to pull on the window wiper assembly, somehow it can get in the way and bind the rear window up so you can't roll it down. Without taking it apart yet, I just make sure I pull on the wiper bolt periodically while walking by.
__________________
'99 5-speed, URD short shifter, Tundra Bilstien/881, 5100/891, TT diff drop, SS Panhard Bar, Studt drop links, Projectors, E-Locked, 231 TBU, Highlander
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-30-2015, 11:21 AM
|
#12
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Orleans Ontario Canada
Posts: 902
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Orleans Ontario Canada
Posts: 902
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by wc11
Sounds like the guide rails or the whole thing for that matter may have rusted out. Happened to me this summer.
The guide rails expanded as they rusted then it seized up.
I replaced the whole mechanism. You can see how bad the old one was.
|
Looks like mine! lol.
I gave mine some TLC as rolling the rear window down used to result in a god awful noise.
Had to repair one of the window brackets and clean off the guides before spraying a little lube. Works great now, but I know it's only a matter of time before I'll need to replace the whole unit as well.
Where did you pick your new one up from? How much?
__________________
1997 4Runner Limited V6 Auto 4x4 w/E-Locker - 184K Miles
OME 881/890 Springs, Tokico TrekMaster GU3535/GE3536 Shocks, 1" Front Diff. Drop, Front Frame Mounted D-Rings
All-Pro 1.25" Hubcentric Wheel Spacers, 265/75R16 ETS Trail Master M/T, B&M 70268 Cooler (bypassed)
2010 Matrix XRS 2.4L 5-Speed - 130K Miles
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-30-2015, 02:14 PM
|
#13
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,107
Real Name: Tim
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,107
Real Name: Tim
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpidermanGeek
Looks like mine! lol.
I gave mine some TLC as rolling the rear window down used to result in a god awful noise.
Had to repair one of the window brackets and clean off the guides before spraying a little lube. Works great now, but I know it's only a matter of time before I'll need to replace the whole unit as well.
Where did you pick your new one up from? How much?
|
I doubt it will be relevant, the thread is a few years old. Just utilizing the search function and on my current problem.
__________________
'99 5-speed, URD short shifter, Tundra Bilstien/881, 5100/891, TT diff drop, SS Panhard Bar, Studt drop links, Projectors, E-Locked, 231 TBU, Highlander
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-30-2015, 05:23 PM
|
#14
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 642
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 642
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpidermanGeek
Looks like mine! lol.
I gave mine some TLC as rolling the rear window down used to result in a god awful noise.
Had to repair one of the window brackets and clean off the guides before spraying a little lube. Works great now, but I know it's only a matter of time before I'll need to replace the whole unit as well.
Where did you pick your new one up from? How much?
|
If memory serves, it wasn't too expensive relatively speaking from toyotapartscheap.com
Click on #11 (regulator). About $150
OEM Toyota parts for your 1998 4Runner in stock and ready to ship.
There may be lower prices at other dealers but it was still less than half for us here in Canada with then exchange rate.
I recall it being about 2 hours work. Partially because I gave the inside of the tailgate a good cleaning while in there. Cigar/beer break didn't help either.
Last edited by wc11; 11-30-2015 at 05:25 PM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
12-01-2015, 02:47 PM
|
#15
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: US
Posts: 14
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: US
Posts: 14
|
Very simple to get to the internals. I had a loose bolt that my window would hit on..
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Rate This Thread |
Linear Mode
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|