So I ordered my OME 881/890 w/ 60028s and a diff drop from toytec the other night and it just shipped.

Should I replace my LBJs while I am down there? The truck has 220k on it and I am not sure if they have ever been replaced or how to really check the condition. Would it just be the boot is all jacked up? I am just "worried" about the LBJ failure that i have read about, i know it is very uncommon. Thoughts?

Also do I have to remove the LCA bolts to get the new tower assemblies on?

...and let the comments commence...

I just bought a full suspension replacement myself. While I was scoping out the job I looked at my LBJs and the passenger side one had some grease coming out the bottom of the boot, I only have 130K miles on my T4R but I opted to order the LBJs and do it with the rest of the suspension and brake change out I am doing in the next couple weeks. Don't wobble on this one replace them especially if you are doing a lift.

Oka, so it sounds like every 100k is a good maintenance for the part un-lifted; I am double that. Sounds like I will be replacing them. Any clue as to the Toyota part numbers / prices?

I just completed the 3" OME Lift Kit this weekend and yes you do have to remove the lower control arm and loosen or remove the swaybar linkage. Here is a youtube video that covers the job the best, but there are a few things not covered that I will mention. Here is the link - Rough Country's 3" Suspension Lift for Toyota 4Runner 1996-2002. Only! $249.95 - YouTube - The two hardest thing to tackle were the nuts on the upper Rear Shocks (break the nut loose with ratchet wrench, then hold in place and turn the upper part of the shock. If you have someone help with this, it's much easier). Then when trying to get Panhard bar back in, put everything back together, mount your wheels and lower the rearend down until the holes line up, it's that simple. But be sure to review the Youtube video a few times and learn the steps needed to complete job and you should be good to go. Oh and to answer your last question, go ahead and replace any parts that show signs of wear, especially if you are already working with that part and it's just one more step. Better to be safe than sorry. Good Luck!!!

i just disconnected my sway, and dropped my diff and it all worked out. . . but mine were coilovers, im not sure how regular struts compare as far as ease of install. . .

Spray every bolt down with some penetrating oil like PB blaster everyday until the lift arrives. If you want to save some time and don't care to recycle or use your rear shocks, just bend them back and forth until the bolt breaks. They are a pain in the arse to remove.

Yes, I would recommend that you do replace your LBJ along with the inner and outer tie rods. You can reuse the boots if its undamaged. You can also reuse the clamp because its a pinch clamp. Good thing is that the LBJ will have to be remove while installing front coilovers. LCA does not have to be removed. And what do you mean by tower assembly?

You don't need to do the majority of the shit in that video to install coilovers.

Disconnect the sway bar, loosen the upper control arm bolt, put on spring compressors and they will pop right out. You can do what they did in that video and it will make it easier to install, but it'd be a waste of time in my opinion. I've never touched my lower control arm working on the coilovers.

And DON'T REUSE Cotter Pins !

With that mileage I would do a replacement of the LBJs. I did mine at approx. 176. It drives better now and the steering feels tighter like it did when the runner was newer. Just go to Toyota and order new LBJs. Also get 8 new bolts for them as well (4 for each side). The dealer will be able to get all the part numbers. I think they were like 70 something a LBJ. Worth the money in my opinion. They come with new pins by the way too.

I bought my OME kit already assembled for the $100 extra, but it came with all new hardware and I did not have to mess with a spring compressor, which is not fun unless you have a good compressor and you know what you are doing. If you don't it is always advisable to have a local shop do the assembly for you, it's not worth the risk of serious injury. Loosening the one extra bolt (the tie rod end) makes all the difference in the world IMO and is far safer than dealing with spring compressors. So as you said in your post "you can do what they did in that video and it will make it easier to install" but a waist of time to take off one bolt on each side doesn't make since. Like I mentioned in my post, I just installed this exact lift kit on my 98 Limited 4X4 4Runner and doing this way, I simply slipped out the old front units and slid in the new ones, 35 mins per side. Just my opinion and yes there is alway more than one way to skin a cat. Choose the way that make most sinse to you and enjoy it, once it's intalled. I like mine alot!!!

You dont need to remove the lower control arms, but you do, you must loosen the bolts in both arms so you can .....

a) drop the lower control arm low enough to fanagle the strut in and .... You may have read where folks take the oe jack and use it to push the arms down.... They find they need to do this because they are working against the bushings in the control arms. Just loosen the bolts.

a1) You need to do basically the same thing for the bushing at the bottom of the shock where it attaches to the lower control arm. Put the bolt through and nut on just to hold it, but don't torque it down until you get everything on the ground and settled in. Otherwise you'll preload the bushing and destroy it.

My OME front strut bushings

b) since the front suspension will have a new resting point, you have to allow the bushings to rotate to sit at their new resting point. This means leaving the bolts loose until you get the weight of the vehicle back on the suspension, bounce it a few times and then retourque the bolts.

It is a good idea to do the LBJ at the same time since you need to separate them from the lower control arm anyway. Inspect the lower control arm bushings while they are free to rotate.

You can get it done with spring compressors, but it is a bit precarious. I believe the springs have a bit more pre-load than the stock springs, so the spring compressors will be pushed to their limit. But it can be done. The spacing between the coils is just enough to make getting the feet between the coils suck, a rubber mallet comes in handy. I do think for someone doing it the first time, you may want to follow the tutorial where you relieve the spring tension while leaving the top of the strut attached to the tower. This requires loosening the lower control arm bolts as well as the 4 bolts that hold the lbj to the arm and then using a floor jack to lower the lower control arm until the spring is relieved. You also would need to remove the nut in the center on top of the tower, but leave the other 3 loose, but secure, until you get the spring off.

Others have probably already said this, but now would be the perfect time to replace your LBJ's. It's kind of expensive, but good peace of mind, especially with your mileage.

+1 for LBJ's, and invest in new bolts for sure. Use only OEM!

Awesome advice and information guys! Luckily I did order the fronts with assembly as I figured it would make the job quicker and new top mounts / bushings are nice too. I definitely plan on doing a few rounds of PB before we have a go at it. Trying to find the best price / quickest shipping option for the LBJs today; my local dealer wants $119 each!!

@opie74 sound advice on preventing bushings from being damaged without pre-loaded; should I just leave a little play to it and use a floor jack / wood blocks to get it in the right position? Do I need to do this for the rears as well?

Thanks again everyone for the input / help!