10-18-2013, 05:18 PM
|
#1
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lebanon, PA
Posts: 257
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lebanon, PA
Posts: 257
|
disconnect rear drive shaft
I'm trying to figure out a vibration problem that I've been fighting with for 3 months now. I think it was all started with bad tires but I think those caused another problem now. I thought it was still the tires and have continued taking it back to the tire place and they agree there is a vibration but are not convinced it is the tires. I'm not positive either as it is not constant. Sometimes worse than others and sometimes goes away for 30 seconds or so.
Anyhow, if I can put it 4wd and disconnect the rear drive shaft I can rule out the rear end and drive shaft. It only happens above 60mph unfortunately this is my daily driver which is mostly highway miles.
Let me know the best way to do this!
__________________
2001 black 4runner sport
Replaced at 180,000 Miles: Tundra 199mm brake upgrade with Advanced Auto Platinum pads and Brembo rotors and stainless steel extended lines. OME 906s with 10mm trim packer and Bilstein 5100 (Ford F150) in the rear, TRD Tundra springs with Tundra Bilstein 5100s up front. New Toyota lower ball joints, Autozone inner and outer Tie rod ends, and all polyurethane on front and rear sway bars
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
10-18-2013, 05:30 PM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Odessa/Midland TX
Posts: 3,711
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Odessa/Midland TX
Posts: 3,711
|
Have you checked any free movements in all 3 U-joints in the rear drive shaft? Specially in the rear-most one? If there is a free-play that it is.
I think you can completely remove the read drive shaft from the truck and drive on front wheels only in 4x4 mode.
I had the same problem and balanced the wheels twice and finally replaced the rear drive shaft and it now rides like a charm!
If your problem is with the drive shaft, I would recommend to get a low mile used TOYOTA OEM drive shaft. I replaced the U-joint in my drive shaft with NAPA U-joints and still had a minor vibration. I then replaced the entire drive shaft with a used TOYOTA shaft, and it rides like a baby... The shaft I bought had 315K miles! Probably someone maintained it through its life.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
10-18-2013, 05:32 PM
|
#3
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 2,059
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 2,059
|
You will have to completely remove the driveshaft. There are 4 or 6 - 12 or 14mm bolts on either end of the shaft that attach it to the transfer case and rear axle. Steering will be very difficult in 4wd even with the rear shaft disconnected, so be prepared for that.
__________________
The 4Runner Show
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
10-18-2013, 05:34 PM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Odessa/Midland TX
Posts: 3,711
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Odessa/Midland TX
Posts: 3,711
|
Four 14mm bolts by the pinion and four 14 mm bolts by the transfer case.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
10-18-2013, 06:03 PM
|
#5
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lebanon, PA
Posts: 257
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lebanon, PA
Posts: 257
|
How in the world would by driveshaft go bad? I don't wheel this thing. Now, I must say, I've also not maintained and lubed the shaft and ujoints the way they should be and I have 200,000 miles on the thing so anything is possible. I don't think I would go with a junkyard drive shaft as you have no idea if that one is any better than what you already have. I'd rather find a rebuilt one or find someplace to rebuild and balance mine.
U joints are cheap so if that's the problem life is good but I'd like to try to narrow down the problem as this has gone on long enough. I've heard stories that there is a bearing in the transfer case that goes bad sometimes and lets the axle spin in an orbital shape that causes vibrations too. Hope that isn't the problem.
__________________
2001 black 4runner sport
Replaced at 180,000 Miles: Tundra 199mm brake upgrade with Advanced Auto Platinum pads and Brembo rotors and stainless steel extended lines. OME 906s with 10mm trim packer and Bilstein 5100 (Ford F150) in the rear, TRD Tundra springs with Tundra Bilstein 5100s up front. New Toyota lower ball joints, Autozone inner and outer Tie rod ends, and all polyurethane on front and rear sway bars
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
10-18-2013, 06:18 PM
|
#6
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,498
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,498
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by nissanh
Four 14mm bolts by the pinion and four 14 mm bolts by the transfer case.
|
To be precise, on the transfer case there is a studded flange, and it is secured to the DS u-joint with 4 14mm nuts. They are not bolts. I just pulled my tranny, and I actually thought they were bolts, and wasted a lot of effort trying to turn heads that are actually the welded on (or maybe pressed on) stud heads. Just turn the nuts.
I assume the diff end is the same, but I didn't need to do that end.
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 10-18-2013 at 07:08 PM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
10-18-2013, 06:39 PM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Here, There..
Posts: 3,783
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Here, There..
Posts: 3,783
|
I haven't seen it mentioned yet, so make sure your 4Runner is parked on a level surface, or on jackstands, before you remove the driveshaft.
More than one person has unbolted a driveshaft, only to then have the vehicle roll over them. Some with deadly consequences.
Tire vibrations and a driveshaft vibration generally have distinct characteristics, and should be easy for a Tech that's experienced in NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) issues to diagnose.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
10-18-2013, 06:53 PM
|
#8
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,146
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,146
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by freshley
How in the world would by driveshaft go bad? I don't wheel this thing. Now, I must say, I've also not maintained and lubed the shaft and ujoints the way they should be and I have 200,000 miles on the thing so anything is possible. I don't think I would go with a junkyard drive shaft as you have no idea if that one is any better than what you already have. I'd rather find a rebuilt one or find someplace to rebuild and balance mine.
U joints are cheap so if that's the problem life is good but I'd like to try to narrow down the problem as this has gone on long enough. I've heard stories that there is a bearing in the transfer case that goes bad sometimes and lets the axle spin in an orbital shape that causes vibrations too. Hope that isn't the problem.
|
U-joints go bad all the time and the vehicle does not need to be driven off road for it to happen. Heck, even a lowly 80's Volvo 240 will need u-joints if you put enough miles on it. Good news is it's cheap and easy to replace. That's my guess for the vibration.
__________________
1984 Toy Longbed 4x4: lifted, locked, incapable of highway speed
1985 FJ60: OME, 33's, Lockright, Rust
1997 4Runner SR5: Rolled , 1999 4runner SR5: V6, 5-speed, e-locker, 285's, SS 1.2
1988 FJ62: TBI 350, 700r4, FF rear, ARB locked F/R, almost no rust!
1996 Lexus LX450: Factory locked front & rear, OME lift, and a salvage title
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|