For the HP goal you mentioned, that would be a great starting point.

If you still want to rebuild your engine, I'd use that parts/ procedures list as a guide. With the 5VZ-FE being a bi-metal motor, it can be a bit more finicky to seal. With higher HP goals in mind, especially so.

At a minimum use a quality MLS headgasket, with the block properly decked for absolute flatness, as well as the heads, and make sure the RA number finish on the deck and heads is appropriate for the MLS gaskets.

At the very least, use new headbolts, but the ARP head studs as listed above, are preferable.

Depending on what your time is worth, and how badly you want to get involved in the rebuild, I'd give strong consideration to just buying that complete short block you listed.

When it comes to performance, you can have cheap, or you can have good.

don't see me ever doing it given the cost. Just something fun to think about.

Sorry, I thought I'd clicked the multi-quote function, and intended to address the OP, with your post as a good suggestion.

Busy day at the track, I should stop lurking here.

You are correct. I will be completely re-doing this motor the right way. That includes ARP head studs and all. I want this to be done right.

I've got nothing to add, just posting to subscribe. Lots of good info here guys, keep talking!

I take it this is sarcastic...

I know that your planning on running an SC on this engine but let me remind you that if you use studs it could be an issue removing the heads later on if something down the road happens,i would suggest just using new head bolts or ARP if it's available.Just my 2 pennies.

No, not at all. Sorry if it came across that way?

There's not near as much info on the site on rebuilding the 3.4 as there is on my 22RE, and it's something I'm going to have to do sooner or later, so I like these threads. I want to know where the best rebuild kits come from, and I want to hear about mistakes people have made or things that make it easier, I love these threads. No sarcasm at all, I promise.

I said studs, what I meant was new head bolts. Sorry for the confusion. ARP doesn't make any for the 5VZ but LC Engineering does make a kit for the 5VZ.

Sorry man. Didn't mean any disrespect, just wasn't sure what your intentions were. Rock on.

Seems as if we are looking for the same things from these types of threads. I'm open to all types of opinions from people. The more the better!

This comment surprises me. No offense intended, but what issues would head studs present, when/if removing the head(s) later on?

I've removed and installed a lot of Cylinder Heads over the years, that were retained by head studs. Numerous high-performance street car, and Motorcycle engines, and far more insanely overpowered racing machines, I've never had or heard of an issue solely due to head studs.

I don't see an issue with this either? Please explain.

The only head stud kit I could find is from LC Engineering. Here it is.

Pro Head Stud Set - 5VZ

how are the engine tech gasket kit by the way?

How long ago did you replace your timing belt? If it is worn you can see loss of compression and power.

This is an old post and this advice is bad. Not trying to be mean but the thread posters are likely long gone. A worn timing belt will not cause a loss of compression or loss of power unless it is worn to the point that the engine has jumped timing a few teeth or has so much play that the engine is effectively out of timing.

That's not how that works with these motors.