11-24-2013, 09:50 AM
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#1
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Best way to remove exhaust bolts?
I need to temporarily remove a section of my exhaust shown in the picture below. It's the bolts on the 3-bolt exhaust flange right before the catalytic converter. I soaked the area in PB Blaster for a couple hours, then put a 12 point 14mm socket on it. Even with a breaker bar, I couldn't break it loose. The socket keeps slipping. I tried a 9/16" on it as well, but it slipped too. What next? Do I need an impact gun?
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11-24-2013, 11:11 AM
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#2
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Good luck.
I've had to cut them off before.
Try a wrench, using another wrench as a lever. That might work.
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11-24-2013, 11:46 AM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Singtoe
try using a 6 point 14mm socket.
12 point sockets are truly worthless except on 12 sided bolts.
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Really? I've always had better results with 12 point sockets when it come to grip. I'll go pick up a deep well 6 point while those bolts soak in PB Blaster a little while longer.
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged Garrett 57-trim T3/T4 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 7MGE Supra 315cc “lime green” fuel injectors - 231mm Tundra Brakes - B&M 70264 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps and AFRs With My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear) - Airlift 1000 - RadioShack $5 Rear O2 Simulator
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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11-24-2013, 11:46 AM
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#5
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Use a propane torch for plumbing and heat the nuts until they smoke. That will expand the nuts and break the rust bond. They should come off easier then
What he said. Use only a 6 point unless you want to round off the nuts.
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11-24-2013, 01:47 PM
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#6
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Wait....
You have to remove the bolt. The nut is welded to the flange.
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11-24-2013, 02:25 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nissanh
Wait....
You have to remove the bolt. The nut is welded to the flange.
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You sure? It doesn't appear welded to me...
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2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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11-24-2013, 02:26 PM
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#8
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Damn 6 point rounded off the bolts in no time... Looks like I'm going to have to cut them off...
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged Garrett 57-trim T3/T4 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 7MGE Supra 315cc “lime green” fuel injectors - 231mm Tundra Brakes - B&M 70264 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps and AFRs With My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear) - Airlift 1000 - RadioShack $5 Rear O2 Simulator
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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11-24-2013, 02:35 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robb235
You sure? It doesn't appear welded to me...
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It's a stud and a nut on the bottom. I don't see a nut on top so I assume the stud threads into the flange on the cross-over.
 
Actually, that looks like a Cali./two-cat exhaust, but same thing:
 
The nuts are 90179-10070 at the dealer, p/n for the stud is shown.
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Last edited by TheDurk; 11-24-2013 at 03:04 PM.
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11-24-2013, 04:15 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
It's a stud and a nut on the bottom. I don't see a nut on top so I assume the stud threads into the flange on the cross-over.
Actually, that looks like a Cali./two-cat exhaust, but same thing:
The nuts are 90179-10070 at the dealer, p/n for the stud is shown. |
Thanks
@ TheDurk
. Mine actually is the Cali emissions type. All three nuts are completely rounded off now. Now I gotta figure out how to proceed from here.
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged Garrett 57-trim T3/T4 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 7MGE Supra 315cc “lime green” fuel injectors - 231mm Tundra Brakes - B&M 70264 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps and AFRs With My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear) - Airlift 1000 - RadioShack $5 Rear O2 Simulator
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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11-24-2013, 05:23 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robb235
Thanks
@ TheDurk
. Mine actually is the Cali emissions type. All three nuts are completely rounded off now. Now I gotta figure out how to proceed from here. |
Sounds like a sawzall will be your best bet.
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11-24-2013, 06:00 PM
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#12
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I would have drove it till they were hot, then pb blaster then 6 point, the 6 point didnt round them off the 12 point probably did, never heard anyone say a 12 point was better. hmmm
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11-24-2013, 06:30 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmildoc
I would have drove it till they were hot, then pb blaster then 6 point, the 6 point didnt round them off the 12 point probably did, never heard anyone say a 12 point was better. hmmm
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6 point for whatever reason rounded off a lot a quicker than the 12 point. I only used the 12 point on one nut, and the 6 point on the other two. 6 point rounded them off almost immediately. For some reason I've always had better luck with 12 point sockets?
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged Garrett 57-trim T3/T4 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 7MGE Supra 315cc “lime green” fuel injectors - 231mm Tundra Brakes - B&M 70264 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps and AFRs With My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear) - Airlift 1000 - RadioShack $5 Rear O2 Simulator
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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11-24-2013, 06:49 PM
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#14
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12 points are no no for breaking nuts off. 6 point is much better contact and less chance for slip/rounded off the ends.
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11-24-2013, 07:14 PM
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#15
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How about a pair of vice grips now that you've already rounded them?
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