01-08-2014, 02:02 AM
|
#1
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 11
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 11
|
cold start power steering whine
2000 4R, 2.7L w 155k miles.
Recently when starting in the morning temps have been in the 20s, I'm getting a loud whine from the power steering pump. The whine goes away and sounds like normal after a min or two.
Checked fluid and its full. Removed 2 oz and replaced with lucas PS stop leak. No change in sound at cold start this morning.
Ive read that there is a screen that gets clogged with these year models. Could this be my problem?
All else seems fine other than the loud whine when cold.
Sounds just like a pump with no fluid.
Thanks for any advice.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-08-2014, 09:34 AM
|
#2
|
|
Moderator
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: the Socialist State of Maryland
Posts: 11,446
Real Name: The Chosen One
|
|
Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: the Socialist State of Maryland
Posts: 11,446
Real Name: The Chosen One
|
I've had that problem before, I just waited until it warmed up a bit and went away.
Could be there's a little moisture on the fluid that is freezing up when it's too cold.
__________________
- the Internet - the mother-ship of people who don't know much and aren't afraid to go public
'84 4Runner - ARBed 5.29s F&R, 4.7 & 2.28 t-cases, 2" drive train lift, BudBuilt x-member/skid, 30 spl Longs
'83 Toy P/U - Buick 231 V6, Holley 4 bbl, Weiand intake, Downey headers, TH350 w/700R4 low gearset,
'89 4Runner SR5 - stock
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-08-2014, 10:10 AM
|
#3
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 642
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 642
|
Been happening to me since new on really cold days.
Pretty much normal. Don't stress it.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-08-2014, 10:26 AM
|
#4
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: VB, VA
Posts: 1,662
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: VB, VA
Posts: 1,662
|
I would let your truck get warm prior to driving it. It just lets all of the fluid reach operating temps, and is less stressful on smaller components. I should probably take my own advice, but I like sleeping in before work. ;)
__________________
2002 "Stormtrooper" 4Runner
Tacoma Bilstein 5100s | Eibach/Toytec Springs (Front) | FJ Springs (Rear) | Tundra 13WL Brake Swap | Much More...
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-08-2014, 10:44 AM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,458
Real Name: Steve
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,458
Real Name: Steve
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian757
I would let your truck get warm prior to driving it. It just lets all of the fluid reach operating temps, and is less stressful on smaller components. I should probably take my own advice, but I like sleeping in before work. ;)
|
Powersteering fluid won't get "warm" until it's in use. Check your local parts store, they make cold weather power steering fluid that might remedy the situation.
__________________
2003 Silver Pine Lexus GX470- Radflo extended travel/FN BFD’s/Total Chaos/33’s.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-08-2014, 10:46 AM
|
#6
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: VB, VA
Posts: 1,662
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: VB, VA
Posts: 1,662
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackCat914
Powersteering fluid won't get "warm" until it's in use. Check your local parts store, they make cold weather power steering fluid that might remedy the situation.
|
With the belt spinning on the PS pump, it doesn't get the fluid warm at all? I was referring to all fluids, prior to driving, but it is an honest question.
The only reason I brought up letting the truck warm up was because I have this issue too, and that always seems to remedy it.
__________________
2002 "Stormtrooper" 4Runner
Tacoma Bilstein 5100s | Eibach/Toytec Springs (Front) | FJ Springs (Rear) | Tundra 13WL Brake Swap | Much More...
Last edited by Brian757; 01-08-2014 at 10:50 AM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-08-2014, 10:51 AM
|
#7
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
Posts: 446
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
Posts: 446
|
Its actually better to drive the vehicle gently until it warms up. Long idling especially while cold is not good.
__________________
1997 4Runner Limited 4WD w/factory RR Diff Lock (4.30:1), Blue Wire Mod, KYB monomax & 'tall' coils, Falken Wildpeak AT3W 265/75 on 16x8" Raceline 887's(+1" spacing), K&N CAI, Tru-cool 4589 bypass, TB gasket mod, OEM sport hood, Satoshi style grill, steel front skid and more
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and blaze a trail."
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-08-2014, 10:56 AM
|
#8
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: VB, VA
Posts: 1,662
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: VB, VA
Posts: 1,662
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazeRunner
Its actually better to drive the vehicle gently until it warms up. Long idling especially while cold is not good.
|
It's not that it isn't good, it just doesn't get the truck warm as fast. If your in freezing temperatures and your oil thickens, you want to idle to let it flow easier. Unless your a tree hugging hippie, then yes, it isn't good.
But I should also mention that I am discussing around 2-3 minute idling prior to getting in my truck. I have the remote start, and I usually turn it on when I'm finishing breakfast and putting my shoes on. So I let it sit for about 2-3 minutes. Long idling, especially after it is warmed is just pointless, I agree.
But when I forget to remote start and I hop in, I do get the power steering whine and that is just my observation.
__________________
2002 "Stormtrooper" 4Runner
Tacoma Bilstein 5100s | Eibach/Toytec Springs (Front) | FJ Springs (Rear) | Tundra 13WL Brake Swap | Much More...
Last edited by Brian757; 01-08-2014 at 11:02 AM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-08-2014, 11:05 AM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,458
Real Name: Steve
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,458
Real Name: Steve
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian757
With the belt spinning on the PS pump, it doesn't get the fluid warm at all? I was referring to all fluids, prior to driving, but it is an honest question.
The only reason I brought up letting the truck warm up was because I have this issue too, and that always seems to remedy it.
|
Resistance generates heat, the amount of heat generated in a p/s pump would be marginal at idle I think. I guess it might be enough to slightly warm the fluid, but I'd think engine compartment temps would do a better job at heating the reservior on cold days.
__________________
2003 Silver Pine Lexus GX470- Radflo extended travel/FN BFD’s/Total Chaos/33’s.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-08-2014, 11:13 AM
|
#10
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
Posts: 446
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
Posts: 446
|
If it's that cold, then you should still be fine with about 30 seconds to a minute of idling, or even consider a block warmer or something similar. Just letting it idle for lengths of time on end isn't good for the motor or the environment, especially when cold. The computer knows the engine is cold and will adjust fuel/air accordingly, there is no reason to keep the motor running for very long to warm it up. It is better to have the engine under load instead of chugging away freely with the colder tolerances. If the vehicle warms up quicker by driving, then it would make sense that the oil would also warm up quicker. So if you keep it idling long enough, parts are still going to be cold and not protected as much. You need to get it up to operating temp as quickly as possible for best conditions, and that would be to drive it. Then the oil warms up quicker and in turn protects the internals better. You could be idling in the cold and have little to no oil protection while it's idling, and that's going to create unnecessary wear and tear on the engine. If your vehicle is newer than 1988 (electronic fuel injection), drive the vehicle to warm it up with minimal idling.
__________________
1997 4Runner Limited 4WD w/factory RR Diff Lock (4.30:1), Blue Wire Mod, KYB monomax & 'tall' coils, Falken Wildpeak AT3W 265/75 on 16x8" Raceline 887's(+1" spacing), K&N CAI, Tru-cool 4589 bypass, TB gasket mod, OEM sport hood, Satoshi style grill, steel front skid and more
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and blaze a trail."
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-08-2014, 11:19 AM
|
#11
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: VB, VA
Posts: 1,662
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: VB, VA
Posts: 1,662
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackCat914
Resistance generates heat, the amount of heat generated in a p/s pump would be marginal at idle I think. I guess it might be enough to slightly warm the fluid, but I'd think engine compartment temps would do a better job at heating the reservior on cold days.
|
Very good points. Thanks for the reply, that makes sense.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazeRunner
If it's that cold, then you should still be fine with about 30 seconds to a minute of idling, or even consider a block warmer or something similar. Just letting it idle for lengths of time on end isn't good for the motor or the environment, especially when cold. The computer knows the engine is cold and will adjust fuel/air accordingly, there is no reason to keep the motor running for very long to warm it up. It is better to have the engine under load instead of chugging away freely with the colder tolerances. If the vehicle warms up quicker by driving, then it would make sense that the oil would also warm up quicker. So if you keep it idling long enough, parts are still going to be cold and not protected as much. You need to get it up to operating temp as quickly as possible for best conditions, and that would be to drive it. Then the oil warms up quicker and in turn protects the internals better. You could be idling in the cold and have little to no oil protection while it's idling, and that's going to create unnecessary wear and tear on the engine. If your vehicle is newer than 1988 (electronic fuel injection), drive the vehicle to warm it up with minimal idling.
|
Hold on, I think we agree on most of it, but what do you consider "long idling"? 2 minutes is a long idle? My oil temp gauge is still resting at the 0 mark after 2 minutes. I'm asking because I agree with most of what you said, and we are arguing but reiterating each other.
You wrote a long comment, and I might have made my previous post update before you got to read it all.
__________________
2002 "Stormtrooper" 4Runner
Tacoma Bilstein 5100s | Eibach/Toytec Springs (Front) | FJ Springs (Rear) | Tundra 13WL Brake Swap | Much More...
Last edited by Brian757; 01-08-2014 at 11:34 AM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-08-2014, 11:25 AM
|
#12
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
Posts: 446
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
Posts: 446
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian757
Very good points. Thanks for the reply, that makes sense.
Hold on, I think we agree on most of it, but what do you consider "long idling?" 2 minutes is a long idle? My oil temp gauge is still resting at the 0 mark after 2 minutes. I'm asking because I agree with most of what you said, and we are arguing but reiterating each other
You wrote a long comment, and I might have made my previous comment update before you got to read it all.
|
Lol, I think 2 minutes would be fine. I'm just trying to say that if you use idling for the main purpose of warming up the engine (say like 10-15 mins or longer) that's gonna create more problems than help. I wouldn't worry too much under 5 minutes, just have a schedule or plan just like you do to only idle when you're about to leave.
__________________
1997 4Runner Limited 4WD w/factory RR Diff Lock (4.30:1), Blue Wire Mod, KYB monomax & 'tall' coils, Falken Wildpeak AT3W 265/75 on 16x8" Raceline 887's(+1" spacing), K&N CAI, Tru-cool 4589 bypass, TB gasket mod, OEM sport hood, Satoshi style grill, steel front skid and more
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and blaze a trail."
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-08-2014, 02:51 PM
|
#13
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Bend, or
Posts: 1,285
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Bend, or
Posts: 1,285
|
My moms Camry does the same thing and this is the 2nd one that has done it. It's not a big deal just act as if its not there. There's nothing you can safely do because you HAVE to use ATF for power steering fluid in these. Unless toyota made the 2.7 different then the3.4 but I think they'd use the same steering rack for it
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-08-2014, 07:08 PM
|
#14
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 11
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 11
|
Update:
30* this morning, no noise at all after a day of driving with the Lucas PS fluid.
I guess it did the job?
That being said, Im going to go ahead and flush the fluid. It looked brown before adding the Lucas.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
02-16-2014, 02:59 AM
|
#15
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: UT
Posts: 193
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: UT
Posts: 193
|
I had this same issue on my 4Runner, the truck would whine louder the colder it got.
I used a 60 ml syringe and some tubing I found in the toss bin at the OR I work at and sucked out all the old fluid and refilled with mobil 1 ATF. I repeated about 6 times until the fluid started looking red. The whine is gone and the steering effort is much less than it used to be.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|