01-20-2014, 04:05 PM
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#1
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Rear long Travel
I am starting to think about what i want to do with my 4runner which is in need of suspension. the vast majority of the wheeling i do is more desert environments and dunes rather then rock crawling. (socal) Obviously this is a 4runner and it has some serious limitations relative to rear long travel.
I know the rear 4link does have quite a bit of flex and droop to it. I have searched and search and cannot find an answer to my one question. Assuming there are no shock limitations, no brake lines to worry about, no strength issues of the upper and lower links or even drive shaft slip to worry about. How much down travel can the stock 4link actually handle? is 12-14 inches realistic? More? Less? I know i measured 10inches from the bump stop to the top of my axle with my OME set up installed.
What do you guys think?
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2002 SR5 4WD
deckplate + ISR, Airlift 1000, OME 881/890, Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 265/75/16C
Tundra 231mm Brakes - yes they DO fit the stock 5 spoke rims - Stubbs Welding HD-SKO sliders.
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01-20-2014, 04:28 PM
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#2
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i think to really have travel you have to ditch the stock coil and shock setup and go for the coilovers. and there is pretty much no way to have sufficient up travel without cutting into the cab. you can always box off the shock tower in the cab that way it's still somewhat stock looking.
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01-20-2014, 04:31 PM
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#3
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maybe
@ Broker
can help a little i know hes got a lot of thought into his rear end and will be changing it soon
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01-20-2014, 04:38 PM
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#4
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I do have thoughts about what i want to do. I look forward to his reply.
Right now i am not concerned about shocks or placement or anything like that. Just how much travel the stock 4 link can actually handle. Forgot to mention I would not be using the coils and buckets. so those can be eliminated from the equation for now as well.
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2002 SR5 4WD
deckplate + ISR, Airlift 1000, OME 881/890, Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 265/75/16C
Tundra 231mm Brakes - yes they DO fit the stock 5 spoke rims - Stubbs Welding HD-SKO sliders.
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01-20-2014, 04:42 PM
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#5
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can i ask why you would want to keep the stock link system?
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01-20-2014, 04:49 PM
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#6
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As t4r4life said, it's a little tricky if you don't cut into the cab.
The easiest method is to convert to leafs and then run a cantilevered setup. If you stay linked, you could run a cantilever setup but then your coils would probably be too long (so you'd need a guide post like a coilover) but a coilover wouldn't fit above the axle, so to get around that you could run a trailing arm setup with shorter coils moved forward. At that point I would triangulate the rear, just since it's a more simple and elegant design and then the axle wouldn't be shifting to the side when drooping. This is the route I'm tentatively planning on going...
Here is a quote from
@ enigmadsm
who I talked to a lot about suspension design.
Quote:
Originally Posted by enigmadsm
I currently have a 3rd gen with an OME lift, and a double cab taco that is long traveled...the ride difference is amazing! then again, so are the creeks, groans, and noises lol.
I'm interested to see how your rear design will look. IMO the rear is more important than up front, and if you are netting 13+ inches of travel up front, I think you're going to want a few more inches than that in the rear. i think you should relook at the shocks and coilover options out there as well. Nothing wrong with Bilstein, but these more expensive brands are worth their weight when you're cycling through whoops and don't want to buck around, plus the shock tuning is awesome.
Have you thought about going to leafs out back with a custom deaver pack? Factory links is sweet, maybe go off that and work up a triangulated rear?
an easy/basic set up that would gain you about 12" of travel would be some simple hoops, but again I think you're gonna want more travel than that....alas, here is a pic for example:
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01-20-2014, 04:49 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t4r4life
can i ask why you would want to keep the stock link system?
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I would like to try and avoid re engineering all of the geometry of the rear end. In my eyes it doesn't matter how you hold the weight up so that part will come in time, but the geometry of the links is very important. If it is possible i would rather leave all of that there, that is why I want to see how far it can be pushed.
If it is not realistic or feasible I will go a different route, but I just always curious how far it can go.
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2002 SR5 4WD
deckplate + ISR, Airlift 1000, OME 881/890, Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 265/75/16C
Tundra 231mm Brakes - yes they DO fit the stock 5 spoke rims - Stubbs Welding HD-SKO sliders.
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01-20-2014, 04:51 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snivilous
As t4r4life said, it's a little tricky if you don't cut into the cab.
The easiest method is to convert to leafs and then run a cantilevered setup. If you stay linked, you could run a cantilever setup but then your coils would probably be too long (so you'd need a guide post like a coilover) but a coilover wouldn't fit above the axle, so to get around that you could run a trailing arm setup with shorter coils moved forward. At that point I would triangulate the rear, just since it's a more simple and elegant design and then the axle wouldn't be shifting to the side when drooping. This is the route I'm tentatively planning on going...
Here is a quote from
@ enigmadsm
who I talked to a lot about suspension design.
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i have read through that build extensively and I dont want to go that route. My idea is to run a cantilever system using coilovers rather then leafs.
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2002 SR5 4WD
deckplate + ISR, Airlift 1000, OME 881/890, Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 265/75/16C
Tundra 231mm Brakes - yes they DO fit the stock 5 spoke rims - Stubbs Welding HD-SKO sliders.
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01-20-2014, 05:44 PM
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#9
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I will try to see if I can get a number from frame to axle at full droop to negate any bump stop factor. I think I may be running longer shocks than most so we will see where that gets you. I do know that My axle will droop more than my shocks allow and they are already 25.5" extended. The problem comes in to how much side shift the axle gets at that much droop. (I know you have stated you are not worried about it.
Here is what you are looking at. Again, you can probably get another inch of droop from this point. Up travel will be about what stock is at if you can get the shocks to fit.
And a shot to show the articulated droop it gets with the current combo. No body lift.
Hope that helps ya out a little.
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Todd:
1997 4runner limited - crawling/camping
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ner-build.html
Last edited by crazydubman; 01-20-2014 at 06:07 PM.
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01-21-2014, 03:38 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhalsey
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The pan hard bar is in the way for type of setup.
I am going to look at the possibility of an upper wish bone, longer lower links, and a cantilever coilover shock setup. I have seen this setup on 1st gen runner. owner said it worked pretty good. You can leave the gas tank alone with setup. The wish bone takes place of the pan hard bar and uppers to give you more room.
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Last edited by Jedrattle; 01-21-2014 at 03:40 AM.
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01-21-2014, 10:27 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydubman
I will try to see if I can get a number from frame to axle at full droop to negate any bump stop factor. I think I may be running longer shocks than most so we will see where that gets you. I do know that My axle will droop more than my shocks allow and they are already 25.5" extended. The problem comes in to how much side shift the axle gets at that much droop. (I know you have stated you are not worried about it.
Here is what you are looking at. Again, you can probably get another inch of droop from this point. Up travel will be about what stock is at if you can get the shocks to fit.
And a shot to show the articulated droop it gets with the current combo. No body lift.
Hope that helps ya out a little.
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are those shocks the camburgs???? if not what are they because i need new shocks and wanted to match the back to the front!!!
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2002 4runner Sport Edition-camburg mid travel set up,shrockworks front bumper and lot more!
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01-21-2014, 10:42 AM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twitchee2
the geometry of the links is very important. If it is possible i would rather leave all of that there, that is why I want to see how far it can be pushed.
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I don't think anyone knows, so they offer you alternatives instead!
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01-21-2014, 12:03 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5RUNNERZ
are those shocks the camburgs???? if not what are they because i need new shocks and wanted to match the back to the front!!!
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They are the swayaways for a 4th gen 4runner.
I had them on my 06 and wanted to extended length over anything. There were some minor fitment issues with the top mount that had to be addressed when installing. Plus the compressed length is longer than some of the 3rd gen applications out there.
All in all, the articulated compression still puts my 305/70/16's on 2 5/8" BS 16x8's up inside the rear fender about an inch or two. With some clearancing of course
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1997 4runner limited - crawling/camping
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ner-build.html
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01-21-2014, 12:05 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IBallEngineer
I don't think anyone knows, so they offer you alternatives instead!
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I have a feeling you are 100% correct. A leaf swap has been on my list of options. The more i think about it, they are much easier to build and tried and true. I know i saw a 4th gen leaf swap setup. I need to find that link again. It was a killer setup.
I think that might be the "best" option for me.
__________________
2002 SR5 4WD
deckplate + ISR, Airlift 1000, OME 881/890, Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 265/75/16C
Tundra 231mm Brakes - yes they DO fit the stock 5 spoke rims - Stubbs Welding HD-SKO sliders.
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