Is it just me or is the AC button permanently green?

I thought it was worth bumping this thread up to mention that I FINALLY found a LED for the dash cluster that doesn't create such obvious "hot spots" (brighter in one area than another). It's 90% better.

My SuperbrightLEDs lasted 10months and started flickering before one of them (center one) went completely out.

___

Installed these and they look 10x better, but they're pricey!

Instrument Panel Gauge Dashboard Colored Led Bulbs Lights Lamps

Samsung #24 5630 6X
PCB Base: 8mm dia. x 19mm overall Base thickness = 1.6mm
Plastic Base: 8mm dia. x 25mm overall

270 degree beam angle

You'll need 3 for the instrument cluster.


Hoping a Samsung name brand quality bulb does better than the cheap ones. These feel and look much higher quality

Thanks to the OP this upgrade is still going strong!

Need more pictures in here, I'm trying to see an amber or amber+white dash to get an idea how it'd look

I did this this week, thanks so much for all the info!

These are the #24 bulbs from superbrightleds, they do hotspot a bit.

Anyone know why my "D" light on the dash when I'm in drive is half the brightness of the rest of them with stock incandescent bulb in there? Picking up some voltage drop or extra resistance somewhere? I replaced it with 2 other #74 incandescents (After trying LED but it was BLINDINGly bright) but same thing, very dim.

Attached Images

   

Huh, that's interesting. My dash does the same thing with the "drive" light, but I just assumed it was because the bulb is old.

Funny Thing Is, I was able to reach the socket without unplugging the harnesses, so I was able to swap out from led to incandescent etc. At one point the incandescent lit fully, so I put it all back together, and within a minute, it went to half brightness again. Visual inspection of all the contacts was ok, tried other bulbs from the neighbouring gears, in their own sockets plastic sockets, still dim, but they worked perfectly in their own spots. I put an led back in there and it works fine, just too bright!

Just the other day I read someone on here talking about how they noticed a massive volt drop at the dash, when I get home I'll try and find the post. Might be worth looking into

cannot find it for the life of me, sorry dude

Random two question about the dash instrument and switching to LEDs.

1. On the circuit board of the cluster, does anyone know a simple way to find out the positive and negative feeds for each bulb slot? I only ask because while doing all the smaller bulbs I had to swap certain bulbs backwards like "park" and then the rest reverse, neutral, drive, etc remained opposite. it was the only way for some of my bulbs to work. I just want to make sure that all are correctly placed as I personally dont know how to trigger my fuel or drivetrain light just to check.

2. While engine is off but key was in second turn before starting. The indicator lights work perfectly on dash and outside. Once the engine is cranked and running, the indicators spaz out continuously making a buzz. This only occurs once I have LEDs in the blinker slots of the dash cluster. Anyone else have this issue? (can upload a video of the issue if not fully clear.)

my "D" light is dim, I just assumed it was that way since the "D" light is constantly on when driving so it doesn't affect the driver at night, but still bright enough during the day to be visible

You are supposed to have a D light? Fascinating. I thought the total lack of a D light was by design. It's not really necessary.....

Yes, there is definitely a bulb there. It is dim (resistor drop) when the headlights are on and bright when they are off. Standard stuff on all Toyotas from the 80's through today.

Anybody that thinks it is dim all the time just drives with their headlights on all the time...

-Charlie

Huh, Pretty sure mine is currently black-hole-dark. Devoid of light. Dead bulb. I'll double-check, but if there is any light at all it's far south of 'dim'. My 2nd Gen did have a D indicator light now that I think about it. Anyway black-out works for me. The lights on either side are bright, so I'm accustomed to seeing nothing and knowing I'm in Drive, plus the truck moves forward.

I did the upgrade last week, using amber bulbs from super bright leds. It’s not as great for me as some of the pictures posted here as there are hot spots and it’s not really that bright, but if anyone is wondering how the amber looks, see pictures.

I actually put an LED in the hazards but it’s so dim that it didn’t show up in the picture. I’m starting to wonder if something is wrong.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk