02-24-2014, 09:52 PM
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#1
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Master Window Switch Problem
Here's the issue: using the master switch on the drivers side, the passenger front window will only go down....it will not go up in manual or auto mode. It works fine using the passenger side switch. I have to reach across the truck and use the switch on the passenger front door to get it to roll up. I replaced the master switch thinking the circuit board may be bad but that didn't work. Is there something else I can look into?
Last edited by segafan1989; 03-04-2014 at 10:36 PM.
Reason: Clarified the situation.
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03-04-2014, 10:36 PM
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#2
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Has noone else EVER experienced anything similar to this? My skills do not lie in the electrical realm so any sound advice would be appreciated.
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03-05-2014, 12:07 AM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by segafan1989
Has noone else EVER experienced anything similar to this? My skills do not lie in the electrical realm so any sound advice would be appreciated.
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Well, I have this problem currently. Bit it's on my 'wait until spring' list. It was 9°F last night. Can you wait?
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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03-05-2014, 12:30 AM
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#4
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i too have a similar issue.. it rarely goes down but will always go up. I was going to clean the connection this weekend. But odd as you'd think it would have to relate to the switch itself
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2001 4runner SR5 / 170KM / Bilstein 5100 with stock coils & OME906 / toyo 265/76/16 / 1.25" spidertrax
1997 S/C 4runner / 276km / 3" OME lift / 285-75-16 duratracs / rock crawler's
SOLD
1999 limited 4runner / 255km / 4" LC lift / 285-75-16 pro comps / and a million dollars in mods
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03-05-2014, 02:28 AM
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#5
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Holy crap Durk...9 degrees?! I would've put it off as well. It's nice to know that I'm not singled out here. It's a strange issue indeed but I can wait. I'll continue to troubleshoot when I can and if I find a fix, I'll post.
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03-05-2014, 11:30 AM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by segafan1989
Here's the issue: using the master switch on the drivers side, the passenger front window will only go down....it will not go up in manual or auto mode. It works fine using the passenger side switch. I have to reach across the truck and use the switch on the passenger front door to get it to roll up. I replaced the master switch thinking the circuit board may be bad but that didn't work. Is there something else I can look into?
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If you replaced the master switch with a new or known good switch, the fault is most likely in the door mounted switch. We can check that if you are patient and willing. The master switch doesn't actually connect to the other window motors, it connects to the switch at each of the other doors.
Of course if you have another switch to try that would be the easiest thing to try, if you don't, let me know and we'll start the testing.
Start by removing the door panel and accessing the window switch. A test light or DVOM will be required.
The electrical diagram I have it for a 2002, I'll give you colors and pin positions to check. If the colors don't match, we'll work around it.
This will be lengthy, so let me know if you want to proceed
@ segafan1989
__________________
1989 FJ62 5.3 Chevy, FZJ80 Axles, 4.88's with ARB.
2000 2wd runner, 4 cylinders, yes it IS slow.
1999 4WD SR5 Desert Dune 3.4 351K and counting.
2000 4WD sport 3.4 Elocker <--My son's but I still end up paying.
2001 2WD SR5 3.4 <-- My daughter's...see preceding line.
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03-05-2014, 03:54 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IBallEngineer
If you replaced the master switch with a new or known good switch, the fault is most likely in the door mounted switch. We can check that if you are patient and willing. The master switch doesn't actually connect to the other window motors, it connects to the switch at each of the other doors.
Of course if you have another switch to try that would be the easiest thing to try, if you don't, let me know and we'll start the testing.
Start by removing the door panel and accessing the window switch. A test light or DVOM will be required.
The electrical diagram I have it for a 2002, I'll give you colors and pin positions to check. If the colors don't match, we'll work around it.
This will be lengthy, so let me know if you want to proceed
@ segafan1989
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That's good to know because I thought a wire ran from the master switch to every door. I do want to test it so I will do it this afternoon when I get home. I have a test light. You want me to start by removing the drivers side door panel or the passengers?
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03-05-2014, 04:05 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by segafan1989
That's good to know because I thought a wire ran from the master switch to every door. I do want to test it so I will do it this afternoon when I get home. I have a test light. You want me to start by removing the drivers side door panel or the passengers?
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If all that is required is access to the switch, you just need to pull up--or pry up if necessary--on the front edge of the little panel the switch is mounted on. Only pull the door panel if you need direct access to the motor. Meanwhile, temp is up to 43°F here and my issue has gone away--ascribing it to cold temp anomaly for the time being.
But I'll get some popcorn and watch you guys.
@ segafan1989
, what year are you? I have access to '99 diagrams if your year is closer to that.
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 03-05-2014 at 04:07 PM.
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03-05-2014, 08:23 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by segafan1989
That's good to know because I thought a wire ran from the master switch to every door. I do want to test it so I will do it this afternoon when I get home. I have a test light. You want me to start by removing the drivers side door panel or the passengers?
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We need to access the switch of the window that is having issues. I believe you said it was the passenger front. And if you can pull up the switch bezel/housing area, all the better. Have some paperclips or something similar ready to probe the backside of the connector.
A wire DOES run from the master switch to every door, but not directly to the motor. It basically "triggers" the switch.
__________________
1989 FJ62 5.3 Chevy, FZJ80 Axles, 4.88's with ARB.
2000 2wd runner, 4 cylinders, yes it IS slow.
1999 4WD SR5 Desert Dune 3.4 351K and counting.
2000 4WD sport 3.4 Elocker <--My son's but I still end up paying.
2001 2WD SR5 3.4 <-- My daughter's...see preceding line.
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03-05-2014, 09:21 PM
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#10
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Got the switch out...what am I looking for?
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03-05-2014, 09:30 PM
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#11
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TURN THE KEY ON!
First ground your test light(use the door striker), and test that it has a good ground by touching it to term 7, the blue wire. It should light. Once you do that, confirm that the motor still goes up and down while testing the switch outputs. With the window switch going down, you should have power at terminal 6 blue/yellow wire. With the switch going up, you should have power at terminal 1 Light green wire.
I'll tell you the next stage once you've done that!
__________________
1989 FJ62 5.3 Chevy, FZJ80 Axles, 4.88's with ARB.
2000 2wd runner, 4 cylinders, yes it IS slow.
1999 4WD SR5 Desert Dune 3.4 351K and counting.
2000 4WD sport 3.4 Elocker <--My son's but I still end up paying.
2001 2WD SR5 3.4 <-- My daughter's...see preceding line.
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03-05-2014, 09:41 PM
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#12
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Give me a few minutes....testing as you said to. I've got a multimeter if that helps matters.
Update: Okay, I tested everything as you said and I have power at each wire. Next step?
Last edited by segafan1989; 03-05-2014 at 09:47 PM.
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03-05-2014, 09:50 PM
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#13
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Okay, I tested everything as you said and I have power at each wire. Next step?
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03-05-2014, 09:53 PM
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#14
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OK here is the next step.
The first thing you checked was that the switch was functioning and window motor was functioning. That was all good. Now we need to see if the Master switch signal is getting to this switch.
There are two red wires in terminals 8 and 9.
The openings for these wires are smaller, that's why I recommended paper clips. But if you can get the test light in there, that works too. Try the down side first, should be terminal 9, red/green wire.
Have someone operate the master switch. It should light in the down(non auto) position.
Then try terminal 8, red/black wire. It should light when the master switch is in the UP position. If both of these work, you have a bad switch!
__________________
1989 FJ62 5.3 Chevy, FZJ80 Axles, 4.88's with ARB.
2000 2wd runner, 4 cylinders, yes it IS slow.
1999 4WD SR5 Desert Dune 3.4 351K and counting.
2000 4WD sport 3.4 Elocker <--My son's but I still end up paying.
2001 2WD SR5 3.4 <-- My daughter's...see preceding line.
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03-05-2014, 09:58 PM
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#15
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Terminal 9 worked fine. Terminal 8 did not, I couldn't get the test light to light when I pushed the master switch down.
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