Just finishing up my lift here and i'm a little confused on wether the panhard bar drop bracket or the adjustable panhard bar is better.

From what i've read the adjustable bar is the superior method.

My lift consists of Tundra Bilsteins & Eibach coils up front, and Landcruiser springs and shocks out back.

From your experience, can you tell me which is the best method?

Some heims can be noisy and squeak a lot. I've also read about the adjustable bar hitting the gas tank when flexing. I personally couldn't see spending $200 for something that only costs about $50 to make.

I don't think one is really "better" than the other.

I personally have the adjustable bar and there are some cons: driveshaft has made contact with the gas tank skid (nothing a hammer and grinder can't fix), and the truck has some pretty noticeable bump steer when you hit a bump or pot hole at highway speed. Keeps you on your toes!
pros: easy setup, no welding needed, adjustable bar is a little beefier than the stock one

If I were to do it again, I would go the drop bracket route just to see if it helps the bump steer issue. Supposedly having the panhard bar more horizontal at ride height is better for the suspension geometry.

I built one for way less.

From what I have read, drops and adjustable bars both hit the gas tank.

I have the Sonoran bar, and it's great.

The driveshaft will hit tank under heavy flex no madder what. The bar moves it down which somewhat puts in back into place and partially moves the axle back. If you want it perfect just go with the adjustable. The drop is a bandaid, the adjustable is stitches, it actually fixes the issue.

I think it depends on what side you drop. I've read about a few people who put the drop bracket on the axle side rather than the frame side and had issues.

You can build one for less than $50, but it all depends on what material you use, and heim/rod ends used. DOM tubing is going to run about $20, good chromoly rod ends are about $40 for 2, bungs are about $12 for 2, and another $10 for jam nuts/hardware/safety washers.

You can use EWR tubing and get it for half the price. You can also use crappy rod ends that cost about $8 each.

Guess my 4runner doesn't flex hard enough cause I don't get any driveshaft rubbing with my drop bracket...

I'm with you. Even at full bump, I got nothing hitting.

That's why the Soronan Steel bar doesn't use heim joints. Toytec does though. Seems like SS has put the time in to develop a good product.

I could make one but I have no idea how long to make it. If someone wants to put up specs that'd be great!

Lots of good input here. Still just as confused as ever haha.

The stock position of the PHB is fairly level. Upon compression and rebound (normal road driving) the axle moves in a mainly vertical motion.

This allows the arc of the bar to be in a mainly vertical direction. When lifting, the axle is pulled toward the passenger side. This also causes the PHB arc to be more diagonal. This diagonal arc causes the axle to move left and right when compressing/extending (more than a vertical arc).

A drop and adjustable bar allow the axle to center back up. The adjustable bar is a bolt on but retains that diagonal arc. This can be felt as "bump steer" of a swimming feeling. When properly adjusted, you can minimize the gas tank contact. Steve and I talked about this contact and I made adjustments to the tank skid that i sell. Steve actually runs one of my skids.His bar looks like a great option and there are many out there.

The drop brings the PHB back to a more horizontal position (like factory). Because of this, The arc is more vertical again (under normal street driving). Also since you have not lengthened the PHB, the clearance (driveshaft and gas tank) has not changed. The drop must be mounted in a vertical position which sometimes takes a little grinding. It must also be welded on.

It's easy to make. First buy the parts you want to use. I'd go with 1-1/2 .120 DOM personally. Get your rod ends (heims, ballistic, johnny joints), bungs, spacers if needed, and a piece of 1-1/2 SCH40 PVC. You use to PVC for mock up purposes. Mount your rod ends on both side, adjust one out slightly so you have some room to shorten if needed. The cut your PVC to fit in between. Once you done that, cut your DOM, test fit, and weld together. Once you take your current bar off, everything will be where it needs to be. Just make sure you're doing it on level ground.

Hey thanks for posting that!

Just saw the link Singtoe posted, maybe i'll give this a try.

Technically you want both... The drop bracket to reset the bar angle and an adjustable arm to center the axle

What Gerdo said. A different rod doesn't really help anything it just makes it fit. Lowering the mount brings the geometry back to where it should be.

That being said, is there a reason why people want to use the longer rod instead of the drop? Seems like a more expensive option with less benefit.