Okay, so I've been reading message board after message board about the LC coil lift for my 3rd gen, and I just have a few questions that I'm still not 100% sure about... I'm hoping to get at least 8 wraps, because that's the height that I'm looking to get. I don't haul much so I'm not worried about sagging, I'm interested in the height gained and flex. I'm not really swimming in money at the moment, so I'm just wondering what some less expensive options for shocks/struts/coils are. I was planning on going with the LC 8 wraps and blistein 5125's in the rear, with the TRD Tundra coils w/ adjustable blistein 5100 struts in the front. I'm looking for some cheaper alternatives, different ideas, etc. Anything helps!

The best balance of cost-effective and quality performance for the front of these IMO is the 5100's and either the Toytec/Eibach coils or Tundra TRD coils.

I ran the full TRD setup on my last 3rd gen (Tundra coils, Tacoma TRD struts and a top plate spacer) and it performed incredibly well as a dual purpose rig and had a SLIGHT rake with 8 wraps in the back. It sat perfectly level with my small trailer behind it hauling dirtbikes/atv's etc and when it pulled my 1st gen around occasionally. I personally don't mind a little rake when empty since it will sit level when you are hauling something which I normally do between work/play.

For rear shocks, I am actually partial to a good ol set of Monroe Gas-Matic's for the front of an FJ80. $25 a piece at your local Advance Auto. I doubt anyones butt dyno can feel the difference between those and the Tokico Blacks for 3x the price. I ran them on my last build and they held up great when I was a broke college kid and I know of a few other 3rd gens that I have either installed the lift on or advised on parts for the lift with the same results. 5125's are valved a little on the soft side.

In the end find out what works for you and what your purposes are with the vehicle. Too many people get caught up on what is the popular choice on message boards even though it may not be what they themselves need.

Thanks! That helps. I haven't heard anyone mention those Monroe's before. If those bolt on and fit well and don't bottom out/limit flex that would be awesome! Cheap is definitely great, because I'm the broke college kid at the moment haha. But you didn't have any problems installing said Monroe's or any problems with limiting the flex too much?

Its just the OEM parts house replacement. Same way the Tokico Black is the OEM Dealer replacement shock for the FJ80's. Dimensions are the exact same.

Flex was not limited...lol


Specs on that 3rd gen were 8 wrap LC's, Monroe shocks, no sway bar, 285's on 5stars.

I'll be installing the same combo on my 97 Limited in a few weeks, except I will probably make new sway bar end links this time since it will see a lot more highway time than the old green one.

The trd coil front setup is really only good for 2-2.5" lift unless you want to have a stiff ride or add spacer on top. You will have a lot of rake with the 8 wraps around 4-4.5" rear lift if thats okay with you. 7 wraps will give you 3.5-4" which would match up a little better with the trd coils up front. Also since on budget when you run 8 wraps you have more chance of coil falling out, over compressing shocks and tearing the stock brake line. To be safe people usually lower rear bump stops, extended brake line and tie in the coil so it done fall out. Not such an issue with 7 wraps.

Good point. Priority on doing these isnt AS high if you just want to clear bigger tires. But if you are wheeling it to a point where you experience full compression and full droop on occasion it should be done when you install the lift.

Agree with the commentary regarding the TRD coils. I swapped mine for Eibachs and actually think the ride improved because I can run the Eibachs on the lowest setting of my 5100s. The Trd's had to be run on the 3rd setting to achieve the same height. Mind you these are Tundra 5100s. May be different with the Tacoma/4runner 5100s.

Yeah, I understand you on that. I'm not going to be using it specifically for wheeling, since it is my DD, but it will be wheeled and flexed so it wouldn't hurt to do. Easier to just do it now than to have to fix it out on a trail if something does happen. Better safe than sorry!

How do you go about tying in the coils? I haven't seen much about it.

Ive seen people use wire just to wrap around the coil top and bottom and just run in somewhere through the shock tower where the coil sits, this way if you over extend it just stays in place.

Normally I'd build my own, but it's tough to beat this:

Coil Spring Retainer Clip

Heep drivers have had to deal with spitting coils for years. This solution is simple, cheap and already put together for you. I've made some out of scrap, and self tappers I've had laying around the shop before, but if you don't have that stuff this is a good pre packaged solution

Thanks, guys!

I'm using ES9000 shocks from ProComp made for an LC. Not the best out there but they were on sale at 4wheelparts for $25... I couldnt beat that with anything else, let alone a gas charged shock. They have held up well. I will say you will want to get extended links for your rear swaybar or remove it because on the passenger rear the shock body will make contact with the linkage/swaybar and dent it, rendering it a useless shock. Also as aforementioned, brake line extension. Also sometimes overlooked is a BFH to the gas tank skid where the driveshaft zerk fitting would make contact because that will get bashed in for sure. If you want to adjust the height by a 1/2 inch you can chose to leave the bump stop in or not, respectively gaining or losing that height. I've left mine out for a number of years now and have not really noticed any issues, however the swaybar/shock contact may not have happened if they were in, who knows? That's about as much info for you as I can attempt to help with. I'm running nauseatingly tedious to adjust and precise coilovers up front so tuning the front ride height is not an issue to match the rear for me.